rockmeupto125

Is it rubbing now, or can you just see a rub mark? Did YOU put the rims on, or did the shop? A cyclical rub would indicate that you have a wheel out of round, added to any other problems you might have at the moment with the brake caliper.

Charge the battery. Sounds as though your alternator/regulator charges at a max of 14.1 volts, and that's what its doing to an undercharged battery. And if that ain't it, you'll have a charged battery, which you need to do proper diagnostics.

I don't have any new ones, Mike, or it would have been out the door by now. Sorry.

This for a 1973 GS5-A. I'd imagine its the same. Transmission Oil SE Class SAE 10W30 or 10W40 Capacity 0.6 liter Level Motorcycle vertical, wait 5 min, between lines on dipstick, screwed in all the way

You might share the application for that fuel filter...for those of us that are uber cheapo.

Disconnect the alternator. There's a chance you overcharged and ruined your battery or regulator.....then the current dropped, and you got the bouncy needle -> dead in the water syndrome.

Yes, it is.

Gotcha. Now I understand. Thank you.

So you are saying the reactive damper has enough travel to work with the XX? That makes no sense.

Where's the pics, man? Would like to see that. Did they decide to produce it?

ROFL!

A couple of weeks ago? What have you been doing since then, just stewing over the situation? Hell, man, ask up about problems...you're wasting riding weather. I think Marty is on the right track, but it doesn't all add up. My guess is that the mechanic didn't do the necessary clutch rod cleaning, some more grunge got in there, and something is skeejawed down inside there. When you put your bike in gear, can you roll it as though the clutch is actuated (might be slightly stuck from sitting, roll it a few times)? If that's the case, you're nearly good to go, cuz you know what's wrong. First suggestion: Don't pull the slave cylinder off...pull the sprocket cover instead. Keep in mind that if your hydraulics are good, and you pull the clutch lever with either the slave cylinder or the sprocket cover removed, you'll be wearing the hydraulic oil. Once the sprocket cover is off, pull the clutch actuation rod out, feeling for sticking. Its probably filthy. Clean it, put it back together, and try it. You might try gentle pressure on the clutch lever with your finger on the slave cylinder piston and see if you feel just the slightest bit of movement, but no more. That would be a sign that your hydraulics are in good condition. If that doesn't work, you may have a piece of debris in your master cylinder from an error in the oil change/bleeding process, or the clutch wasn't properly bled, and you have air in the system. That will require you to take the bike back, or attempt the bleeding process yourself. Let me know if you need pictures.

Okay..I've never seen one of the active units. My entire knowledge base was acquired from a lengthy conversation with the head of the department of the Hyperpro USA distributor. I had emailed a question, he had happened to see it and returned my call himself rather than one of the sales people, because he (at that time) was an XX rider. The answer to your question, R1000, is in bold letters, and for others who might want to know more about steering dampers, here is a synopsis of what the fellow at HyperPro explained, coupled with what I know and have experienced: The Hyperpro steering damper mount was made for only the 97 and 98 model years. Its most common for steering dampers to mount to the frame at the front of the tank utilizing two bolts that typically secure the tank to the frame rail, just behind the steering head. The XX doesn't have that type of a tank mount, so an alternate mount was designed and built. Many motorcycles require this sort of engineering chicanery, and each is unique, raising costs of production, etc. The Hyperpro mount engages the frame at two points on the left side of the bike...the upper engine mount, and the mounting lug for the lower cowl which is located on the upper frame rail. To utilize the strength of the lug rather than the strength of the cowl bolt which is only 6mm, the Hyperpro mount incorporates a cap which fits over the frame lug. The cap has a hole in it through which the cowl bolt can pass to complete its job. The mount then extends upwards through a hole which the user must cut in the left dash panel. The body of the damper is retained there, and the rod of the damper extends forward and fastens to a clamp surrounding the left fork tube. There's no way to fasten the damper closer to the steering stem other than to take a hammer and create a deep groove in the tank. Creating this groove consistantly is probably beyond the skill or desire of most XX owners, requiring at best a hammer, a rounded head striking anvil, and a certain cavalier approach to XX ownership. Because the damper is fastened to a point nearly three or so inches from the center of rotation of the fork, the throw necessary to allow the forks to travel from lock to lock is nearly 8 inches. For that reason, the reactive damper cannot be used with the Hyperpro XX mount, as its total length of travel is much less than that. In 1999, the XX was made with a slightly larger cowl mount frame lug....perhaps in response to the lnumber of XX's that showed damage in that area from even relatively minor tipovers. To fit the Hyperpro mount required either reaming the mount, or cutting down the factory lug. That works until somewhere in the 2001 model year, when the frames were changed to use replaceable upper cowl mounting lugs. I've heard elsewhere that the Hyperpro mount can fit these as well with a bit of machine work, but I have no firsthand knowledge of fitting a Hyperpro mount to the latest model frame. Of course, those with determination, drills, machining skills, and/or the money to pay the machinists will be able to fabricate an upper frame mount for the XX that will accomodate the HyperPro Reactive damper, the Ohlins, Scotts, or whatever they wish. This little story is simply to explain the Hyperpro XX mount, its limitations, why its no longer produced by Hyperpro, and perhaps make it better understood why no one else bothered to make a mount for the XX. My guy at Hyperpro (Dave, I believe was his name) was very helpful, but couldn't offer an explanation as to why all these vendors advertise mounts for the XX that don't exist. He also told me that HyperPro USA had at that time a good supply of mounts, but that he had no reason to believe they would ever be produced again. I've never found the XX in stock form to need a steering damper. There are those who complain of headshake while topping rises at high rates of speed. I'm sure that even a stock XX ridden in some Isle of Man style will produce handling moments that might require a steering damper. However, XX's that have been modified DO show a propensity for mild headshake. Fitment of hard luggage racks such as the Givi top box or Wingrack system often results in headshake at moderate highway speeds that is so mild it doesn't occur unless the bars are completely released. Many riders do this to adjust clothing, helmets, or access wanted items such as cameras, sunglasses, or beads to hand to other travelors for their cooperation. Additionally, changes in chassis components or geometry, or significant increases in engine output can all lead to some headshake despite the relative steadiness of the stock and unmodified configuration of the motorcycle. And lastly, front tire wear on otherwise stock machines has been attributed to a mild headshake as well. My XX isn't stock, and I appreciate being able to take both hands off the bars for brief moments, and to be able to get a bit more wear from my front tire when on extended road trips. I don't need a damper on the XX, but I really like mine. Hope this has helped any with questions on the subject.

Heh, heh....sure he does. Go ahead and try it. As I've stated before, the active Hyperpro damper does not fit the XX. At least he takes returns...minus the shipping.

I'm having trouble finding them. Searching cbr1100xx, cbr, hyperpro, steering, and damper in various combinations doesn't get much. Got a link?

Gotcha. I generally just use the clock on the dashboard, so that didn't occur to me.

Keep your fingers in mind until you get used to it. It's pretty easy to give yourself a nasty pinch because of the minimal clearance between the grip and the damper at full lock. Why do you have a watch on your top yoke?

If you leave the forks on the bike and take the damping unit out by removing the retaining bolt in the bottom of the fork leg, the oil will generally (and hopefully) run out. What others said...is it your bars or your fork tubes that don't match side-to-side? Regardless, you won't damage anything by riding it. You can adjust them yourself by loosening the pinch bolts and positioning either the bars or forks where you please, and the factory settings are in the manual. Make it a point not to loosen both fork legs at the same time, particularly if your foot, a small dog, or children are playing underneath the motorcycle. You also might try not to do that if you don't feel like having a really shitty day. Oh..........the spacer. There's only one spacer.....on the threaded side of the axle. The shoulder on the "head" or non threaded side of the axle serves as the spacer, if you will. There IS a collar of sorts that fits between the shoulder of the axle head and the bearing seal. If you can actually see where the axle enters the bearing, you're missing parts, and I'd be miffed.

Click, click, click. There's enough juice to actuate the solenoid, but not to spin the starter. Bad ground, or not enought juice in the battery. Very simple. Now its up to you to figure out why your freshly charged battery isn't cooperative.

:icon_wall: :icon_wall: :icon_wall:

Failure of a regulator generally means it allows excess voltage through, not less. Don't get your hopes up. I suspect its a stator.

I think most situations and mods have already been addressed here, on the longest running US XX forum. As a matter of fact, Carlo's original web page held this information in detail. But a quick search will turn up things like this.... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...ignals++shorten

Now pay attention. If you have a 97, it came with a carburator. It didn't come with a knock sensor. If you have a knock sensor, and a fuel injection light, its a 99 or newer. (UNLESS someone has changed the head and added an injection system to your 97.)

I would hate for you to order that and have it not be the problem. Particularly as there is no knock sensor on a '97.

Go. One thing is a constant...life goes on...with, or without you. Keep on keepin' on.