rockmeupto125

SELL IT!

You'd have better luck ording two mainstep rubbers 50661-MBW-000 and the two setting plates 50609-MBW-000 from a Honda dealer, and then picking up the two required 5x14 bolts from a local hardware store. Or you might even consider putting up a wanted to buy ad here....somebody probably has a set lying in their garage.

The XX seat fits every year XX. Honda has only one part number for all the years. Therefore, any aftermarket seat for an XX should fit any year XX. The Corbins often require individual adjustment of the locking loop to the bike, and have that capability.

I'm not sure what your train of thought is here, but these will fit all XX's. You just can't put the early model footpeg rubbers on as these are modeled after the '99 and newer footpegs, and only those rubbers will fit these.

Todd and Stan...yours are shipped. Couple sets left. Bumparoni.

No! Sneakers, ripped jeans, no gloves, and no safety glasses.

Uh........if I could have taken pictures, I probably wouldn't have had to sling my foot over the handlebar. Say, does that qualify as garage stunting? Am I a squid mechanic?

Pretty hard to beat that offer. HF wants $15 for a replacement. I thot I might do that, and re-engineer the leftover bent one, or just tag some angle onto the one I have if I can get it straightened. Let me think on it.

Did you know you can pull in the clutch lever with your left foot? All you have to do is pivot on your right foot and lift your left foot OVER the bar. Its easy, really.

Hobicus put a couple of these up recently and they're great. I think I've done a couple before, but my memory isn't clear on that (just leave it alone, guys...whatever you come up with won't be that funny). Yesterday I needed a new rear tire before heading out. I kinda need a new chain, too. And probably sprockets. So I decided to photograph the procedures for your viewing pleasure. Ran out of battery after about 10 shots. You lose. I would have changed the batteries and at least taken pictures of the clutch bleeding I had to do after taking the sprocket cover off, but last I looked, I could only find 2 arm/hand combinations, and you need at least 4 hands to bleed the clutch, and 1 more to take pictures. So if you're doing something that you think others might benefit from if they had some pictures and descriptions, see what you can come up with so we can archive it. Maintainance, procedures, and accessorizing can be a lot easier with a couple of real world pictures rather than the grainy ones in the book.

Not unless there's something in that bead sealer they didn't tell us about.

The upright straps bent sideways as I was attempting to dismount a automotive tire from an aluminum rim. I've probably owned the changer for at least two years, and don't think its gonna be a warrantee claim.

Nah, it bent pretty good. I was thinking I'd get a replacement, and then see about reinforcing the bent one if I could beat it straight again.

I broke my bead breaker. Has anyone else had this problem? And if there's anyone who doesn't use the bead breaker portion of their changer, I'm interested in purchasing.

Boy, that's sweet, and a great price. John, you have a pm. No, I cant afford it.

Might have to wire a small incandescent lamp in the circuit just to generate some resistance.

I've been rooting around in the garage and stumbled over some old stock. I have a very limited quantity of 1st generation lowering pegs which I have no need for. These are nicely machined and incorporate the peg into the bracket. As far as I know, they will only accept the later model footpeg rubbers. Also, there were clearance issues-on some bikes the peg would hit the exhaust pipe and required a bit of creative grinder work, while on others they fit just fine. I think that had more to do with the exhaust fitment and adjustment than anything else. Anyway, they're a well made piece, and if you'd like a bit of history they may interest you. These should be the last in the known universe, so replacement is impossible if you bend one. As is, no hardware, guarantees, or promises. $35 a set shipped by Priority Mail in the US of A.

I would stay stock because there are usually plenty of pre-owned rear rotors available in good condition at a reasonable price. Buying new, I'd go by price. A wave rotor on the rear is purely cosmetic.

Just to clarify so no one gets the wrong idea, here in the States we call it ignition advance. Preignition is a bad thing.

Its the exact same fluid as the brake reservoir. It should be clear, and have a tint ranging from colorless to a moderate yellow or light honey color (think of Corona beer). The change in color from nearly clear to an amber bock is a symptom of degradation of the fluid. This can make a difference with your braking, but most people aren't affected by the same phenomena in the clutch circuit, and the clutch fluid is not changed with the same frequency as the brake fluid. If you're big into maintainance, you could bleed out the clutch, replacing the fluid in the process. You may notice a more positive clutch feel. Its one of those winter projects....not a real priority when you could be out riding instead.

Where are you located, Joe?

Careful to figure the total price..........his UPS store is making good money on the shipping. Just the shipping is over $50 to me on the east coast.

Pretty good deal if the paint matches, the holes matches and the headlight lugs are there and matches. No mention of those in the ad, however. Fitment years aren't mentioned either....think it has the mount for the ducting on the carbed models?

You may just have a bad battery, severely discharged from riding in traffic, frequent starting or high load. Its possible that you may have a reg or stator problem, but don't plan on all of them. The spurious gauge activity is the cardinal sign of low voltage. Remember, if you're really stuck, when stuff like this occurs, you can often give the battery a little time to itself (20-30 minutes), pull the headlight plugs (or fuse), push start the thing, and get another 20-30 miles out of it....which might save your life if you're in the wrong place when it happens.

There's no reason to touch the carbs. Their estimate includes a valve clearance check. Statistically, there's no need for that at your low mileage. Many XX's we know of have gone well in excess of 100,000 miles without a valve clearance adjustment, mine included. A very few have needed slight adjustment before 50,000 miles, but the majority of those reported seem to have been dealer encouraged/reported, and frankly, many dealer's service departments deserve the bad reputation they have. You should be doing simple maintainance at this point. Check fluid levels and replace if dirty. Its probably near time for a chain and front sprocket replacement for you...the rear sprocket lasts a long time. Air cleaner and plug replacement, inspect the brake pads. Check the tool bag strap and you should be good to go. If you're at all mechanical we always recommend you do your own maintainance and repair. That way you know its done to your satisfaction, and as you learn more about the bike, you'll be able to monitor its health more readily. Folks here are glad to help when they can.