rockmeupto125

Has anyone here used their HF tire changer on car rims/tires?

Be prepared for a notch down in oomph dropping from the Busa to the XX. A small notch, but its there. That being said, XX transmissions can be damaged if you use the shifter as a footpeg, or routinely do fullpower hammer shifts. HOWEVER....as I understand it, the 500hp dragbikes use the stock transmission with undercut gears (along with many other integral engine parts) which underscores just how strong the stock unit is. Its possible to trash an XX transmission, but it takes a dedicated effort.

They don't interchange because the fittings are different, and the fuel pump resided in the tank on the injected models. They use the same mounting points, so you could install the tank on the frame. Lets say you converted a fuelie bike to carbs. The carbed tank would go on the fuelie frame and hook up to your carbs without a problem. The same going the other way. But converting a carbed tank to use the fuel injection pump of an injected tank......it could probably be done pretty easily if you had a spare week to waste, an old fuelie tank to cut the flange out of, and good welding skills. Oh, don't forget doing the grinding, resealing the tank, and repainting. You can fit a volkswagon engine into the XX, I'm sure, but some things aren't worth undertaking. Look for a fuelie tank.

So it works, right?

Never seen any. The sliders that fasten on the frame lug that supports the side fairing panel don't really count as sliders...they're not strong enough to do anything but decrease the damage in a zero mph tipover.

A convertible? Dayum................

Good prices at University Motors. The last order I received from them was packed by someone whose job should have something to do with pipe cleaners. $350 plastic piece shipped unprotected except by the foam bag they come in along with a small bag with heavy metal parts in it left to roam around the box and smack against the plastic. It was bent when I opened the box, and I was sure it was damaged. It did have some scratches and small chips, but nothing that wouldn't be comparable with a couple thousand miles of open road use, so I kept it despite being pissed off about it. The damage was completely attributable to the pathetic packaging, and its a credit to Honda that the fairing wasn't in two or more pieces instead of one.

Thanks, Mike. Distance makes this a pretty tough one. Now if it was a Maserati BiTurbo, it wouldn't be that big of a distance.... So far I've not been able to get out much...hope to have transportation available this afternoon if the O-ring gods cooperate. What I've been able to check out so far... *86 Chevy p/u......solid but with terminal rust in progress...didn't light my fire. $700 *91 Brougham......needs exhaust, maybe shocks, maybe this, or that. $1100 FIRM, by God. *97 Sebring..........mint condition, except the mangled front fender and a shimmy in the front. $1200 *95 Ram 1500......gone before I could get to look at it. $1250 *91 750iL.............promising until it suddenly has a bit of a miss, would be cool but I can't afford V-12 fuel injection problems. $1100 *95 Bonneville......gone in 60 seconds. $800 *95 Pathfinder......gone in a few hours. $1000 *95 Camry...........mint condition...hasn't run since March. Yeah. $1000 *96 Contour.........told him to call me back when he knew more about the car...like the mileage and what transmission it has. No calls. $900 *95 Grand Cherokee.....excellent condition. Did I mention that the front diff doesn't work and it squeals going around corners? $800 *89 Tacoma.........no reply. No price. *97 Caravan........excellent except for the tires, ball joints overheating, and rust. $1200 *93 Chevy Club Cab.....perfect condition, excellent price. Would cost $350 in gas just to get it home. And at least 10 others that haven't bothered to return phone calls or emails. <sigh> Thanks to all of you who sent ads and advice!

Nah........ya gotta start someplace. How else do you think we all got into the really long drawn-out stupid questions? Welcome aboard.

Mine.

Are you saying that Eric has Philip's head? I'm confused.

Okay.........my cash on hand has suddenly become seriously limited due to some unexpected occurences/expenses...and surprise increases in expected ones. My ready cash/slush fund is glowing red with embarassment. I don't wish to delve into my Mobil or Sunaco stock, as they're making too much money for me, and my 19.7% CD's don't mature for 73 more years, so I'm kinda stuck with what I've been able to find in my wallet, on my desk, or coins on the sidewalk. And I find myself now in need of a spare vehicle. So, if you, your neighbor, some guy down the street, or your wife's Aunt Sybil happen to have an interesting vehicle for sale.....I'm interested in purchasing. It needs to be either damned near free or relatively close to Pennsylvania. I'm looking for something around $1000...less is great. I could go a couple hundred more if I'm sorely intrigued by a vehicle, but really am trying not to...I'd like to save a couple bucks for Christmas. I need a driver, not a project vehicle, but I realize that in this price range are the vehicles that don't have working rear windows, need cleaning, or have dents or body rust in non-critical areas. I can probably handle one moderate need (needs brakes, needs tires, needs some exhaust work), but probably can't work with "transmission slips" or "just needs the motor freshened up." I'm not frightened by mileage or R titles. I'm leary of automatic transmissions, especially in smaller vehicles. Deals pop up everywhere that we all can't take advantage of...people sell cars cheap for lots of reasons. So if you see one that you can't use, please let me know. I had a scoop on an '02 Kia 5-speed with 72k on it last week for $2000 with a salvage title due to HAIL damage, of all things...thankfully I held off, or I'd be up shit crick right now. So lemme know what you find....eBay and Craigslist are threatening to charge me usage fees, I've spent so much time there this last week. Thanks!

Wasn't able to find anything on their website, but thanks for the tip.

If any of you home theatre buffs are upgrading during the present season, I'd like to move out of the dark ages into something a bit more capable. Hi-def not necessary, as my TV is low-def. As a matter of fact, most everything around here is low-def.....

Vern I tried that in my leaf blower and just got sparks when I plugged it in. Where do you put the Stabil? Dave......use the Stabil. Gasoline is not an oxygenated fuel...unless you've put mothballs in it.....

Its a stiffer shift spring. The intention is to achieve faster and more positive shift engagement by placing more pressure on the shifter pawl. But when you place additional pressure on a component, the wear factor increases. Therefore, FactoryPro has made a kit of the stronger spring and an actuator with a bearing to counter the additional stress, which the OEM unit does not have.

High beam is the physically lower bulb, btw.

Maybe if you rode it down the highway flat out for 20 miles, it would lean out enough to be a problem. In normal riding, you won't do any damage, and worse you'll find is that it might get a little boggy at some rpm/load situations. I'd expect overall it would run a wee bit better.

I think the Galfers come in a little slower, but its been a while since I've used them....I prefer the more immediate response of the EBC's in both dry and wet. Anybody got something more concrete to offer?

Panote...airborne is correct (17 front 45 rear. 110 link 530 chain) when speaking of North American spec bikes. Because you are not in the US, you may have a different rear sprocket size as standard equipment....apparently in some countries it was an option to have a 46 tooth rear sprocket, and there may be more I haven't heard of. Unless you've owned the bike since new, you should always verify the sprocket sized because its so easy for them to be changed from factory specifications. No matter where you are, the 17/45, 110 link chain will work. You can change the front sprocket to either a 16 or 18 tooth for easier starts, or more relaxed riding on the highway, and still keep the 110 link chain size.

Understand this is primarily a North American forum, and we don't have a mandated factory anti-theft system. Some folks may not know what HISS is, so while their advice is legitimate here in the Americas, things may differ across either of the ponds.

Yep...and it runs just fine. Keep in mind that the 1.6 Miata engine was originally designed for a turbocharged purpose, and in its naturally aspirated form, is quite robust and long lived. I would take this car without any qualms to California tomorrow, if you give me 15 minutes to change the oil before leaving.

I have to finance some projects, and this is the easiest way to do it. Not my choice, but I'm limited in my options at this point in time. 1993 Mazda Miata...excellent condition for its age and year. Red, 5 speed, alloys, recent top with glass window, hardtop available. Here's the Craigslist ad. I can assist with delivery anywhere in the 48 states if you can cover my expenses. For anyone on the forum, take $400 off the Craigslist price...that's firm....less than that I have other options. http://elmira.craigslist.org/car/465068612.html Obviously, more/better pics and descriptions available for those with an interest. Thanks.

Don, the cush drive is, as others have stated, the rubber dampers that provide a bit of cushion between the engine drive chain and the wheel...making on/off throttle transitions less abrupt, and helping to prevent the tire from breaking traction, either upon acceleration or deceleration. Like any piece of rubber, they'll eventually wear out, either abrading so that they are visibly smaller, and don't fill up the space provided, or becoming hardened and no longer supplying good damping. If you have a LOT of rubber shreds inside your hub, the dampers don't fit snugly, or are super hard, chances are they're worn out and should be replaced. They are a dealer only part. If you order them, don't order them individually (41241-MAT-000), but as a set (06410-MAT-E00)...they're a lot cheaper that way.

Got you covered.