rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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Seems like a crap shoot, might be best to just see what fits on the bike most easily.
Or you could seal the frame or swingarm, put a valve on it, and carry a jumper hose. Better yet, get that proper colored pumper, mount a lightweight aluminum tank on the frame, and set the pumper up so the swingarm does the work and keeps the tank filled. And macgyver a blowoff valve onto it like you have air brakes. Then you could set up an air horn, air shifter, air for emergency repairs or even help with CPR.
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Between prime and a coupon these were about $50 as I recall.
I don't think that 4 of the incandescent bulbs that were in it would produce this much light. There is some scatter, and the cutoff isn't sharp, but I haven't been flashed yet. If they last they will have been a worthwhile investment. Had to wait to put them on until I got the truck inspected, upgrades to direct lighting systems not allowed.
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It was listed for $1300, new they are $3500-ish.
That's a nice price. I debated about it. This would help with insulating the garage when I have to do the ceiling but is way too short for other things like cleaning my gutters. If I could do that with a small device I would sell the bucket truck but I'm not paying that much for something that will have limited use in my hand.
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And that's why 2 inch pipe. The wire I'm using is 2-2-2-4, which comes out to a very low 13.4% fill in 2 inch pvc. That's the best chance I have of getting it through there myself.
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There would be no point. After you did it, you'd have to lift the heavy combination into a trench and position it.
The greatest drawback is there would no way to anchor the conduit while you are pulling through it, so you would have to provide both push AND pull. Cable pulling tensions can approach 1000 lbs of force in extreme situations. For instance, pulling this cable through four 90's of 1.5 inch conduit would be approaching extreme.
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21 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Is it feasible to 'preload' the cable in 1" conduit before burial so you don't have to use 2" for easier pulling?
You certainly can. It's absolutely against code, however. The concern is the solvent used to melt the PVC together could damage the insulation of the wires. But yeah, you could do it.
The way things are looking I may have to pull through four 90's unless I do some creative bending just to match up with the pipe the jackasses that poured the pad put in while I wasn't looking. It might be easier to just forget about the existing access and put another rise and LB into the building using only two 90's. I have to look at doing this without help and I don't think I can pull hard enough to get those 4 ropes through 1 and a quarter pipe no matter how much lube I use without someone feeding it from the other side
Surprise, surprise.......the owner of the local True Value dropped dead and they are liquidating. I picked up 2 inch PVC conduit for less than the regular price of 1 and a half inch. So that decision is made.
Fur, I've been putting some things together. I think that cable you pulled out of the ground was specifically "well cable" given where it was and that it had a sealer in it. Well cable is considered to be temporary, but never is. And the insulation is only expected to last 15 or so years. Well cable isn't rated or approved for ANYTHING except powering a well pump. So it would be no surprise that the insulation was sketchy.
As I understand things from my research, lots of progress has been made in not only the metals science behind aluminum for wiring, but also in the jacketing and insulation materials. Per norm, codes lag behind the technical capabilities as well as myths and old electrician's tales about how "you'll kill somebody if you do that" take a long time to die out.
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Well, the house is probably going to go to someone I like, unless they maneuver the state to take the house in exchange for my nursing home. If not, they'll sell the house anyway. But I would like it to be pretty much to code specifications so the insurance company can't weasel out of paying for it if there's a fire. If I got it inspected, I would have to bring the house up to current code, and that's not happening. I think the house wiring meets the 1878 NEC the way it is.
Sand forms a bed for direct burial cable to hold it away from rocks and other baddies that can wear through the insulation. Then sand goes on top for the same reason. Then boards to deflect a shovel or pick from the cable, buried cable marking tape, and then backfill.
I had really planned on conduit until I found out just how much more anything bigger than one inch cost. I'm going shopping this morning, or I should say "pricing."
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Well maybe not treasure, but at least metal, and that can be sold for scrap.I'm in a quandary over what to do for the sake of a few dollars.I'm running electric to my new garage. It will be a buried cable, and I can't decide whether to simply bury the cable or run it in conduit. The run is about 22 ft and I'll be using 2-2-2-4 MHF which is rated for both direct burial and can be run in conduit as it is not sheathed. I should mention the ground isn't yet frozen here.24 inches deep if it's direct bury but the trench would need to be closer to 30 inches to accommodate a sand bed. And I'd have to get a load of sand for the bed and backfill, then boards to put over it before I close the trench.On the other hand, 18 inches deep for conduit, but closer to 21 inches deep to get the TOP of the pipe at 18 inches. It's not a driving or high traffic area, so I can use schedule 40, but it would still be about $140 for pipe. I'm not going to try to pull that cable through anything less than a 2 inch pipe, and it's $30 a tube.So $140 for pipe and $150 for the trencher.Or $20 for pipe (the ground exit), $20 for sand, and $200 for the deeper trencher.I have no need to pull more cable, and I doubt the earth is gonna move enough to damage the wires before I'm dead, and after that it is someone else's problem.
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Well that, and I have a Harbor Freight drill to power it with. Leave the Dewalt for real work. I guess they are made in a better neighborhood of China.
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Didn't know whether to put this in the garage cuz it's a tool, or handyman because it's for projects, or the pub for more coverage, but here goes.
There's a small manlift, lightweight and portable advertised on FB locally. It's the sort you would get from an equipment rental, and in fact, that's who is selling it. It looks pretty neat, simple and relatively easy to transport and store. it has enough weight capacity that one could actually take a tire or box of parts up to a higher shelf for storage.
Anyone every used one? I guess they are made by JLG, but I've seen exact copies under different brand names.
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I looked up the Osram and was amazed, delighted, and frankly surprised at the price until I realized Google interprets "LED" as "halogen." Once I found the real thing, they were more in the price area I expected.
I found a screaming deal on the Sealights which had consistently good reviews. So we'll see how that goes.
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Yeah, I've done the online searches and Ford forums. There's so much whiney-ass unsubstantiated opinion out there.
*Don't use LED, it's criminal, your beam will hot-spot and kill someone.
*The only way to go is to change the headlight to a projector.
*TheSe R grAtz, I luV da blUe liGhT.
*The beam is so scattered with the LED bulbs that I can hardly see.
*The beam is perfect. I've been using LED bulbs since 1969 and have never been flashed even once.
*Don't get them from XXXX they sent the wrong ones just because I put the wrong year down.
*Here's a link to my video about how to change the taillight bulbs.
And on...and on. There's a few recommends, but nothing consistent. That's why I come here...for information I can trust.
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"googly eyes"?
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I want a bit better light out of the front end of my 2015 Ford F250 XL. Supposedly takes H13 bulbs.
Anyone have a brand/vendor they recommend?
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It's all relative. It's not uncommon around here to see this.....
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Oh, the box is not included. But I have a Tupperware one I would throw in. Or a hardshell bed cover in silver
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Pretty good truck for the price....at least in these parts. Listed on Facebook for $4000, and you guys get the family discount.
I really like my blue 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, but it's not what I need right now, and one of the things I need is more space in my driveway.
The quick read: 2011 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.5ft bed, 5.3 with electronic 4WD and 3.73 rear axle. Has the trailer package but with drum rear brakes. 252k miles and runs well. Well optioned. Body is steadily rusting like most northeast vehicles but it doesn't look too bad. Did I sway well optioned? Will collaborate on delivery. Good work truck or winter beater. Thought I would at least offer it up here, maybe it's just what someone is looking for at the moment. Oh, and the Toyo winter tires are nearly new.
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The purpose of the breaker (OCPD, over current protection device) is to protect the wire.
It may not be necessary, but I plan to upsize the wire as much as I can. It's analogous to putting 16 ply tires on a 2 place motorcycle trailer. You can do it, but it's not needed. Sizing up the wiring will cost another $100. The tires would cost lots more. And unlike the tires, I'm only going to do this once.
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*The general rule of thumb is that circuit breaker size should be 125% of the ampacity of cable and wire or the circuit which has to be protected by the CB.
So if my wire is rated at 65 amps, I should use an 80 amp breaker.
*but NEC suggests 80% as a safe current limit as compared to the rated current of CBs.
80% of 80 is 64 amps. The next highest industry standard is 70 amps.
So I use a 70 amp breaker on my 65 amp rated wire with a calculated load of 52.5 amps. ARRRGGGG.
I've used the lights, compressor, and welder on a 30 amp circuit with 10 gauge wire for the last 12 years, and only tripped a breaker once with a ground contact on a receptacle that hadn't been replaced after the flood.
The temptation is there to use a smaller wire than I had originally intended for my planned 60 amp service.
But it's not that much more $$ to just go ahead make it an 80 amp service.
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I no longer use it, but I see the results of Dragon text to speech every day at work, and it's bad, possibly even worse than it used to be. I don't know if people are just getting used to the idea of speaking their notes and now talk conversationally instead of enunciating, or if there are just way more providers who lack proficiency in any form of English. Some notes are just gibberish but Dragon makes them into words instead of "ggghytytz."
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True, LOL. But yes, that's reserve points. I'm sure because I've done that myself a couple of times. 4 hours is too long to wait, break the window, get the keys out, and move on.
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I think it carries the same amount of points as seeing your vehicle winched onto the rollback.
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Hah, great point. Looks like I'll be trying to rebuild my machine as a little emergency came up and my mad money evaporated.
Just trying to keep as much of my time as I can to use they way I want and it's not working.
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Okay, pony up. What is it?
Tires and Tire changers
in The Garage
Posted
And that's exactly the point. My tire machine is down, but I would still do bike tires by hand, no second thought. Hopefully come spring I can get things working again.