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768mph

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Posts posted by 768mph

    2003 Honda CBR1100xx FOR SALE

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted · Edited by 768mph

    nice bike, looks clean

    that isn't a full exhaust, but a yoshi slip on exhaust, full exhaust would include replacment of header also. Not to be a dick or anything but might help you have a better description of add ons if you post it on craigslist and the like.

    good luck with sale

    Those are multiple photos of the bike through its progression. I had Stock exhaust then delkevic slip ons, and finalized with a Full Yoshimura. I wasnt aware I had to list the history of changes to sell what the bike has on it NOW.

    My list is as detailed and structured as it gets. So thank you for your criticism, noted...and the like. Enjoyed your quote in your signature btw. ;)

    that isn't a full exhaust, but a yoshi slip on exhaust, full exhaust would include replacment of header also.

    Look at all the photos. I see three different exhaust in them. The first shot would be the full Yosh.

    ^ Thank you for being able to decipher through that. :D

    Thanks gentlemen.

    Clutch Bite point after fluid swap?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Fixed the issue Gents.

    When I bled, the bike was on the center stand and bars full tilt to the right; proper postions per the manual.

    I was suggested to sit on the bike and tilt the bike as far as I could the the right and pump the clutch handle to see if any bubbles may have stuck near the banjo bolt connection below the reservoir; it worked!

    A few pumps of the clutch handle and it was back to what it was originally. Thank you all for the help!


    pretty sure i notice a faint click when the lever is operated. probably the switch from starter interlock system to keep it from starting in gear w/o clutch lever pulled in.

    Yep, thats the click I was refering to.

    I took the handle off and lubed/cleaned the bolt connection. And realized it was the interlock system.


    768mph, what you're experiencing is normal. Both my Bird's clutches didn't start to grab until the lever was most of the way out. I intentionally let air into the system once to see if it would give me a little more lever travel. It worked, but only for about a day, until the air worked its way back to the reservoir. Best solution I found was to change to a Pazzo lever, which has more adjustment range than stock. Only other thing would be to try a smaller master cylinder.

    Yes, i will get new levers here soon. Thanks bud.

    • Upvote 1

    Clutch Bite point after fluid swap?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    How far out is the clutch push rod (in the reservoir) supposed to engage?

    Looking at it and hearing the initial click, it clicks on the first 1/3 of the clutch lever's travel. but the clutch doesnt engage until the last 2/3rds-end of the lever's travel. If that makes sense.

    Shouldnt it engage (initially) as soon or near the release from the grip and the clutch engages halfway through travel?

    Clutch Bite point after fluid swap?

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by 768mph

    I recently bought a 2003 Bird, previous owner stored it and too great care of it (stored for a year) 9800 miles, now has 10,3xxx miles.

    I replaced the fuel pump and filter (pump seized), changed the FPR, tires, Oil change and just recently bled the brakes and the clutch fluid (ATE Super Blue DOT4)

    Bike had no problems with clutch before change (original fluid I assume) it was dark and cloudy with no loss of fluid. After the process, brakes work great but the clutch bite point is now all the way to you end now. Before it would engage half way through.

    What I done to remedy this:

    -Bled the fluid 3 times (pneumatic air pump, gravity and old school pump method) NO AIR in system.
    -Pulled sprocket cover, cleaned the rod and the debris and build up inside and around the cover/sprockets)
    -Rod had some black (faint) scoring but true and cleaned up nicely.

    I can only think maybe the slave cylinder but everything was in working order before the fluid change. How would new fluid cause it to stick where the old fluid was dirty..

    Thoughts?

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