GriffXX

As for the Motion Pro tool, did you try to grind off the rivet head first with a dremel (or something similar)? I found it necessary with such a robust chain. Oh, and ditto for WBR. Good folks.

Sorry Joe. I've been away for a while. :oops: I missed the transformation. I didn't realize that this group has become a "Patient, Type-B Personality, wine coolers with my comfort food" bunch. Oh, I get it. That is why I see so much talk of Hardleys and Cruisers on the main page. So if I want to talk with some real 'go fast' guys, I should hop over to Sport-Touring.net??? Patience? I'll never have it. Spring is just about here and I am ready to go. Oh, and thanks!!! :grin:

OK, I'll answer my post. I like to do that. Ron Ayers actually responded: You actually need the D01. The D00 was superceded by the D01 and the 000 is for a 97-98 model.

I'm loooking for a a little parts number help / wisdom. Due to my ‘off’ from last year, I have to replace my center cowl stay. I see two different part numbers for it, 64500-MAT-D01, or -000. 000 is like $75 at Service Honda and Ron Ayers, and the D01 is approximately $69. I know it is a $6 difference (so what), but is there a functional difference? Possibly the the ‘000’ item number includes the Gable Clips and the ‘D01’ doesn’t? Any other ideas? Bueller? Bueller? As usual, talking on the phone or via e-mail with those places to get help is worthless. Thanks.

Yep, try Galfer Greens. They are awesome when wet. Actually, I'm drunk and fucking with you. I think Greens are awesome when dry - and almost worthless when wet. But you would appreciate the HH's more in wet riding! OK, I'll shut up now and let the smart people talk!

You going to do it yourself? Let us know how it goes. I think that's my next upgrade. Here's part of a note that Sergio Galfer (yep, that Galfer) put on a board about the SS lines you are installing: Sergio....how do I install me brake lines?* Well, 90% of sportbikes out there are going to be dual disc set-ups. With that in mind, when you receive a 2 line kit for your bike, please remember that the 2 lines are going to split at the master cylinder.... Galfer brake lines only require 12-15 ft. lbs. of torque on the banjo bolts. Any more, and you risk giving the brake line or banjo a hairline crack that can cause brake failure. Once you have installed braided lines, make sure that you have good clearance when the forks get compressed. Make sure the line doesn't hit the fender, or the inside of the fairings. This is just a quick over view to make sure everyone has at least a general idea. If you have questions that require more explanation, post them, or drop me an e-mail! There were a couple of more posts on the banjo bolts. I guess more than a few have over tightened them. Be careful.

Check their feedback in the Vendor Review section. http://www.cyclebrakes.com/ (805) 671-5010

'Not sure who has the best bang for the buck, but cyclebrakes.com offers a 10 or 15% discount to members of this forum. Very good service. Prompt delivery. And they have the SS line kit for the XX in stock (or at least they did when I last called).

I think WhiteBuffaloRacing has the best (or close to it) price, but robert your price is actually slightly better than retail (which is good from a local dealer). Hang around here more and you'll be installing the chains and sprockets (and almost everything else) by yourself - and enjoying it!

Welcome aboard Robert4. That sounds like a neglected chain. Forget that it is still in the green. With o-rings that are shot, it is time to replace. Lots of threads in the Garage on chains. Do some homework. The DID 530ZVM is the way to go. Some stealers have it listed as the 50ZVM - same chain.

Joe - did you ever find a way to win that battle against the screw? That little thing was a b!tch. I'll drop a hex where the housing connects to the stay. I was able to save the housing. The signal lens got pushed back a little, but after some "de-mudding", everything fits and lines up fine. I'll try the black primer on the Alt. Cover. There really aren't scratches I have to sand down, more like friction wear from the grass slide. Actually, black will look a lot better than the standard color anyway. Parts ordered. I should be back on the road next week.

I basically used a Dremel to deepen the head of that bottom screw and was able to get a good grip on it. So I saved the Cover and all it looks like I need now is the Stay and that stupid Pan screw. $33 is a lot cheaper than the $160ish I thought I was going to have to pay for the entire mirror assembly plus wiring. I miss the riding (although all we've had is rain), but this is actually fun and I am learning a lot. Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks guys. This helps. It's a '99 'Bird, and I tell you what, this crash has done wonders for my getting to know the insides of the XX. I've taken the entire signal / assembly apart. Of course, the one thing I can't get undone is that same damn underside screw that Joe has an active thread on. Heat / WD40 / soaking just aren't getting it. So now I can't separate the the Stay (? - the long bar) from the cover. It looks like the Stay is the only thing that broke (at the bolts). Maybe a new stay and a cover and I'm set.

Due to last week’s little mishap (it’s been one week. why am I still sore?), I need to replace the Left side mirror/turn signal assembly. I’m not sure what part(s) I should be ordering. The assembly got ripped off at the bolts. The turn signal connector (white plastic connector) separated as designed. The single wire next to it split, meaning the connector together held and just ripped the wire. I think I may be able to solder and salvage it, if need be. Plastic is scratched pretty good, but may be repairable with some paint. The amber lens cover is pushed in, but possibly salvageable. So here is my question, “What do I need to order?” Is the Left Turn Signal-Mirror Assembly, 88120-MAT-D01ZA, the be-all / end-all, just bolt it on and reconnect? Or do I need more? If the above doesn’t include the wiring, and I can’t repair the turn signal wire, is there a part number for the wiring harness? Lastly, I am real tired of replacing the alternator cover (last time from an ex-wife pushover). I slid on grass, yet and the cover is scratched? WTF? What can I do to this? Thanks guys.

After a quick check, I couldn't find the post. There are like 8 million posts on this particular thread. Worse than our "Bump" thread. The context was in reply to this post from Sergio: You got the right pads, and they will treat you well. Your stock pads are like that, because the compound is so high in metals, that by making "4" pads on one, it helps to reduce heat. The greens run cool by nature of the compounds. So no worries there. As far as cleaning off the rotors, it is simple. 600grit sandpaper and wet sand the rotors in a circular motion. Then wipe clean with a damp cloth. This will give your pads a nice surface to start biting on. I had asked him about the Green's being one continuous pad versus the 4 "mini-pads" on the stockers. I think his other note stated that since the pad is even and continuous, it didn't need the metal backing as support. But this is a real memory test on this one. If the wisdom around here says put the shim back on, then I'm going to do it (although I've been without them for 2 years). And no, the brakes dd not cause my little mishap. Glad you like the Greens.

Sergio said no, don't do it (pull the shim). I'm looking for his note. He said no need because the way the material was made. That's why the Green is one continuous pad rather than the 4 separate sections on the stockers. I'll find it.

Full of shit, yes he is. Part of the confusion is the stupid DOT nomenclature. DOT 5.1 should really be named 4.1 or 6. I believe 5.1 and 4 or 5.1 and 3 can be mixed if you don't want to bleed the entire system - just keep refilling the reservoir as the level decreases from the bleed. Lots of threads on this around here.

Thanks all for the input. Sounds like I buy the Yuasa on line for cheap, get the acid from Sears or some battery shop, and slow charge. My Battery Tender Jr. is certainly slow at charging which sounds like is preferable for the first charge. Trying an auto parts store is also a good thought.

John, 'Not a lot of accessories dealers here in Richmond. I'm gonna hijack my own thread for a minute to say thanks for the recommendaiton on hondadirectline.com. Very good prices. Not great about returning emails (I asked about shipping: how, how much, how fast to ship), but very good prices. I think there is one of those 'battery only' chains around here. I'll give them a try. Any possible way to stay away from the local stealer, I will. I miss my Chicago dealer.

Anybody here order batteries for the Bird on-line, like from Ron Ayers or Service Honda (or whomever)? I assume they come dry, and we need to add the acid. Correct? If so, is there anything special that needs to happen with the initial charge, like a particular type of charge or rate? Is a special type of charger needed? Or is this one of those items its just worth going to the stealer on?

For the maintenance newbies like myself.... Easy stuff. I didn't get around to the brake / clutch fluid, but the chain and sprocket were easy. I almost left the front sprocket on because it looked good. But I figured since I was in there, I might as well swap it. I did split one of the pins while I was riveting it, but fortunately I ordered a backup just in case. The reason I share my story is that if I can do it, anybody can. There is no reason for anybody to take your bike in to the stealer to install a new chain, unless you really like your stealer. I enjoyed doing trhe work. I know know my bike better. For any other rookies like me, here is an excellent (in my opinion) play-by-play on replacing the chain: http://home.stny.rr.com/jhugh250/chain/Cha...Replacement.htm I think he did a nice job explaining it.

Thanks Joe. That was exactly what I was looking for. I just picked up a Corbin GF&L that will do my two-up duty. It needs a good whack, or a fat ass (mine) on the seat to get to to securely latch. It does pop off easily with the key though. I was thinking I neeeded to do something to extend the latch bar a little. As I will frequently be swapping the stock & Corbin (stock better for commuting with brief case bungied down), I was worried about breaking the latch itself. Two washers it is.

What a great site. Four hours (following the maximum speed the law allows) and I'm there. SeXXt may not work for my calnedar next year, but I can see a road trip happening real soom. Prime riding weather around these parts.

Using a wet cloth, I dampened the rotors and I also dunked the small piece (torn off from the big sheet) of sandpaper just prior to it’s application. I changed out the sandpaper often. It’s a bit of a pain in the ass, especially the inside of the rotors. Then I used a slightly damp cloth to wipe off the grit. At the end, I finished it all off with a little (the stuff can eat things you don’t want it to eat) brake cleaner on the rotors, which was probably overkill. After a short bedding-in process, the Green’s are great.

Welcome. Quit lurking, start joining in. Lots of great places for parts and accessories, but for plastics and what you are loking for, www.ronayers.com is still the winner, imho.