snailrider

yes guys, I still love my bird, don't get me wrong. The fix, if needed, is quite cheap and simple. It's comforting to hear that you all have the same experience on this issue.

Now I can sleep over it.......in the 90 degree heat Honda seems to go sub par in recent years. The new VFR subframe crack, the ST1300 engine heat, now even XX, a long time model since 97. I guess either my expectation for Honda was too high, or other bike manufacturers have catched up with the modern day standard.

Thanks for all of your responses so far. I didn't think the oil is a major factor if at all. Just found a similar post from May, the consensus seems to be the coolant temperature may not be a true representation of how hot the engine is. So I am going to pull the thermostate and test it, most likely will replace it as well as the radiator cap. If not, the cooling fan temp sensor and water pump will be next. One fact remained the same. Just a short commute back home, most of the metal frame area under the seat is too hot to touch by hand. This is definitely not what it should be under normal operation. Fortunately, nothing seems to be affected by this issue so far. But so much about Honda quality. 30K on my last Suzuki and it needed nothing but gas, tires and chain. Makes me wonder owning a Ducati may not be such a scary thing after all Thanks agian.

The coolant temperature gauge only seen 227F in the worst of traffic, probably in high 80 low 90 days. The fan kicks in at around 210F, and operating as I expected. But the frame spar area right above my foot pegs get quite hot for the touch of hand. My thighs and buns are roasting in that heat. I kind of worry that it may melt the wirings around the battery. It seems to get hotter since I started using Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W40 about 7k miles ago. But that's when the summer heat really starts to kick in too. And I don't see any problems from others around here with Rotella. I was thinking maybe 20W50 would improve this heat issue. But I am not sure about the consequences if I switch back to 20W50 dino oil now. Please help, any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe

Had my season open rides this weekend, did about 650 miles on two day rides. So the silver birdie is ready to loss that code of bug splash. The bottle says it's safe on a lot of different finish, I just like to make sure as it seems to be very corrosive. Thanks for any comments.

Yes, I understand the purpose of the tab or U shaped foot, but when I close the two half-round arms together, I thought the inside circle is either too big for the handlebar or too small for the sleeve, but I could be missing something so obvious :oops:

I am confused as to where the lock is gripping, the gap inbetween the switch housing and the throttle sleeve, or directly on the sleeve toward the switch housing end of it? My NEP has the U shaped foot that snap into one of the throttle cable on a Bandit 12S, was installed by Ron of tailofthedragon at the Gap, but I pulled it off too quickly when I traded it in for an XX. It looked like the one toward the bottom of this link, a CC2 or CC4 I suppose. http://www.soundoffrec.com/docs/rqt0cbiqga...uise%20control' Thanks Joe

Iceman_40, does that mean with the USB, it'll make throttle response even smoother, or is that a separate issue? Thanks Joe

Thanks Pete, I tried that, and it did release the pressure quiet a bit.

Does anyone have to adjust the throttle cable for more slag? The bolt holding the right fork leg is bending the throttle cables when I turn the steering at full left :oops: Thanks Joe

Absolutely FOF (function over form), there is a reason Givi is so expensive. Once I used them I can't turn back. Even the wingrack is not as ugly as I used to think. I have 5star turbular racks on my last bike, and it's nolonger available for the XX. So too bad. Anyway, time to start my winter tinkering.

Thanks Matey_Peeps. Did you find the weight inserts absolutely necessary? My bars came with two bar end weights that have extensions with rubber heads at the end. They would be inserted into the bar tubes. I believe when I torque the screws at the bar end weights, the rubber head will expand and jam the inside wall of the tubes. I don't think I can use the stock weight insert at the same time this way. How's your cases working for you. I hope I don't overkill by going to 2 E45s and a V46. Thanks again.

I am really bad to ask this again. But seems like I wasn't able to go as far back on searching info as the previous site. So my apology. Just got myself a set of bars, so I am anxious to load up with more info. Now exactly where are those tabs I suppose to cut off again, their physical locations? I believe both the XX and VFR bars share the same internal weights, correct? I know I need a lot of time and patient for the taking off the grips, WD-40 suppose to dissolve the factory glue? Any special technique here? Pete (birdie_xx), if you are still browsing, I finally got myself a set of wingrack with fitting kit on EBay, off a 98 XX, but I think it'll fit all years right, just being paranoid. Also has a new V46 and my old E45, one more E45, I'll be set to goto North Pole. Kidding, read this Rider aritcle about Alaska and crossing the artic circle. It seem to be a tremedous undertaking. Anyway, thanks for all your input for the racks.

Got it, thank you sir

I found a link from another post, but it doesn't work any more. Any one still has a copy on the net? I really appreciate it. I know valve adjustment is not a big concern for the XX, but having a manual for something quick is still very helpful. THanks Joe