demon

It would be better to do it all at once. If you've never done it before, a slab that size isn't a good place to start. Get professional help.

Moles usually are after grub worms. Kill out the grubs and the moles will leave your lawn. My dad used to have mole traps. A tripod looking thing with a spring loaded fork and a trip lever on it. Flatten out the tunnels and place them on a flattened section. When the mole pushes up on the trigger trying to make his tunnel passable again, the forks go down and spike the little bastards. Worked every time.

Sounds like your plugs are trying to foul. How many miles on the plugs and plug wires? Is it a Z-28 or a V-6? Any modifications like a computer reprogram, high flow air filter, or free flowing exhaust?

I don't think that an under body system would work all that good on the bird. The header primaries are too long and there isn't enough room for a good muffler under there. If you shorten the primaries, you'll move the powerband up in the RPM range and mess up the torque curve.

Pack it with stainless steel wool. Won't rust out and you can pack it as tight as you like.

are you talking about drilling out the hole in the slide that lets air in past it to the throttle valve or drilling out the hole that goes up into the diaphram? If you're drilling out the hole in the slide that lets air past it into the motor, it will actually slow the slide opening down, allowing air to go through it and not placing a higher vacuum on the "port hole" that goes up to the diaphram. A lot of aftermarket kits have different diapgram springs that fine tune the slide opening and drilling out the slide reduces the vacuum into the diaphram and therefore reducing the tendancy to make the off idle too rich.

Benefits are improved handling Downfall is the seat sets about an inch higher. If you shim it, you'll have to readjust the headlight as well.

If you put a larger sprocket on the front and an even larger one on the rear to get the same gearing, the "torque" advantage you speak about will negate itself. It would take more torque to spin a larger front and less to spin a larger rear, think of where the power is coming from and where it's going. The overall gearing would be the same so the RPMs at any speed would be the same. You're adding mass that you have to accelerate both in the chain and the sprockets. You might get less resistance in the bend of the chain around the front sprocket, but the added weight would ofset this as well.

Yea, what he said. Believe it or not - even in a car, leather interiors make it sound crisper than cloth seats. The sound wave will bounce better off of a smooth hard surface than a textured soft surface.

The FI system has an air temp sensor that adds more fuel when the air is colder. As mentioned above, cold air is denser and requires more fuel to keep the AF ratio the same.

I run the 16/46 combo and I personally love it for local riding. Long distance sucks ass though. 2 more teeth on the rear would kill your fuel economy and top speed. Like blackhawk said, it'd be overkill unless you're drag racing and have it lowered and/or stretched.

I've noticed that my clutch basket makes more noise when the weather is colder at startup.

The battery I bought was dry and I had to fill it. Everything comes with it and a vent tube wasn't present nor was a nipple for a tube on the battery.

Thinking around $60, but I could be a little off.

I currently have a Wal Mart battery in mine Tim. The night before leaving for NEXXT while reassembling my bike, my battery wouldn't take a charge. Wally World was the only place I could source one out in the middle of the night. So far - so good, but it'll probably die on me in a year and a half.

Yea, what he said. :wink:

The greens are OK but not an impressive difference over the stockers in the dry. A piece of wood pressing on the rotor will stop you sooner in the wet. These pads are the worst wet performing pads that I've ever seen. EBC HH's will be the next set for me.

Yes, yes it does those things. Fun, ain't it.

The bike as a whole don't look that bad, it's just that the headlights look like a spider and the testarossa side panels are just too 80's

A 190/50 is shorter and fatter than a 180/55, so that won't have anything to do with it. Is the Wilbers shock longer than stock? I've got the longer Wilbers and have raised it some more and mine doesn't wander at all. I don't think that the sag setting would have anything to do with it wandering unless it's way too tight and doesn't compress when you're on the bike. Mine was sent to me with too much sag in it and I had to tighten up the spring some. I'd about bet on steering head bearings.

yea, Nightshades by VHT should work on it. You can get it through Summit racing and other car type vendors. Your local parts store might even be able to get it if they get VHT products. Redbird sprayed his with black spraypaint and it looks real good. You can't see through it, but it looks really good.

Those ZX14's wouldn't be so ugly if they looked better.

Does it change with speed instead of RPM?

SELL IT

Are you sure you want to do that Travis?? Didn't you just go through your carbs. A full system would require a rejet.