demon

No, not yet. I'm going to wait till after father's day and the SEXXT to do any planning on a local ride.

gcp, if you look near the bottom of the shock, just above the lower mounting bolt on the left or clutch side, you will see a straight head screwdriver adjusting screw. This screw is for the rebound damping. Screw it in and the damping is firmer, out is more plush. to get to it, you need a really short screwdriver, or a realy long one capable of reaching the screw from outside the footpeg. Look on your shock, it's there.

My wife wants me to put up some of that vinyl fence in our back yard to keep the poodle in. Is it hard to put up by yourself? She wants the shorter 4' fencing she can see out of since the whole back yard won't be fenced in.

Yep, I'd grind the link off and put a new one on rather than dropping the swingarm. Be careful when you grind off the peened ends of the master, try and not damage the other two chain links. It may take longer, but a file works good for the last of the peen removal. Don't ask me how I know this :oops:

If you bought the chain continuous in one piece, you can either take the swingarm off or find the master link (if it has one) and grind off the peened pins. With the chain unhooked, guide it around the front sprocket with a piece of wire and around the rear sprocket. join the 2 ends together and install a new peened master link (not the clip type). If you don't have a master link peener, HEEHHeeee, buy a clip type to temporairly get the bike to a shop that has one. Take the clip link out and have them install the peened link.

Why would you remove the caliper to put in new brake pads? All you have to do is remove the flat head screw driver cap and an allen head bolt to slide the old pads out after you squeeze the calipers together to give you more clearance. Slide the new ones in the calipers and button everything up and ride her. (make sure to squeeze the brake lever to take up the slack between the pads and rotor before you move) Takes all of 20 minutes.

You can slip the forks up in the tripples some and get one of these links. Got mine through Schnitz racing.

Single Pipe- Buy an aftermarket full system

MiDNiTXX, I have an adjustable link on mine. Works well. I have mine about 3" lower than stock right now and can go even lower if need be, like an extended swingarm :roll:

Yea, I go to Sloan's every couple months. I'm in Huntsville more than Nashville or Murfreesboro though, it's closer for me to come there. 45 minutes and I'm in the middle of Huntsville. We may need to hook up for a ride along with control1 who is in Huntsville as well.

qcp, where are you at in north Alabama? I live just across the line in Winchester TN :roll:

Thanks rockmeup

I read that the air box on a bird actually builds more pressure than atmospheric at as low as 90 MPH. From there it keeps climbing up to 28mb over atmospheric pressure at top speed :shock: . Sealing the ram air tubes should be worth a little more pressure at as little as 100mph. I have sealed up the 2 water drain holes and disconnected the PAIR valve. Both these should increase the pressure slightly. Next time I have the tank up, I'm going to silicone the ram air tubes to the airbox. It will be completely sealed.

What size is the lock nut on the clutch under the plates holding the basket on? Looks like 32mm, but Im not sure

I'm probably the closest one to ya. Need some help?

Yep, AFAM. It's not polished, but a grey anodized. The bike had 8K when I put the 16 on the front and 10K when I put the 46 on the back. The chain looks in good shape

dropping one in front really increases your acceleration in the lower gears. By just dropping 1 in front I think your top speed will be about 170MPH. By adding a tooth in the rear I think I dropped another 5MPH on top speed. 165 is fast enough for me.

I have been running the -1 on the front for a while with the stock chain and rear sprocket. It fits well, but your chain adjustment indicator will be off a little bit. It will show more stretch than you actually have. I just put a 46 tooth sprocket on the rear and the adjustment indicator went back to stock. The rear gave it a little more grunt. I estimate actual top speed at 165MPH. I haven't ridden the bike much since the rear sprocket change, so I cannot comment on fuel economy.

What I don't get is why the velocity stacks are a smaller ID than the throttle bodies. The velocity stacks look to be 1-1.5mm smaller than the 42mm throttle bodies. On most GSXR's I've seen, the velocity stacks are the same size as the throttle bodies. The smaller diameter stacks are a problem with Honda 929,954, and 1100's from what I have researched. The smaller diameter would work better with a carbed bike, increasing air velocity to pick up fuel better, but a FI bike doesn't need this since the fuel is injected rather than sucked through jets. The height "tunes" the throttle bodies: short=high RPM Horsepower, long=low RPM Torque. In AMA Superbike when they allowed the 1000cc 4's to compete, they REQUIRED them to run stock intake parts to equalize power production between them and the twins. If they wern't forced to, how many stock intake setups do you really think you'd see? They had some pretty exotic shit on the 750's. Since most of us don't compete in superbike with our birds, We can change stuff around. The stock setup is a compromise with HP, Torque, fuel economy, and NOISE. Since most of us put free flowing exhaust on our bikes, why not help the intake system out?

I doubt you'll need a new master cyl, the one you already have is squeezing 4 pistons stock. I think if you put in a link hose between the 2 lines on the rear caliper (like the de-linking kit has) you'll be fine

anybody know the throttle body spacing on a 954? Factory makes some stacks that fit the 954 but none for the xx as of yet

While I was under the tank this weekend messing with the pair valve, I was looking over everything making sure my baby was right. I noticed somethin very strange. The velocity stacks are quite a bit smaller than the throttle bodies. Won't this restrict flow? Anybody "opened em up" to the dia. of the throttles, or know of anyone who makes larger ones that let the throttle bodies flow what they should? I think it would be worth a few HP on top end when added with a full exhaust system and proper PC map.

I put a metal plate between the reed valve and the cover and sealed it to the cover. I removed the hoses and plugged the air box, but left the valve in place to keep the the FI light from coming on. Can I splice the wires together at the valve to remove the valve all together and not mess up anything?

Does anybody know when the pair valve actually opens? Is it at high RPM or does it open at cruise speed? The reason I'm asking is that I'm thinking about running my crankcase breather to the pair valve to pull a lower pressure in the crankcase and to not rerun any blowby that is there. If the valve isn't open when I need it to be, I was going to put in a "T" to run the breather tube to the reed valves in the head. I'm leaving the reeds in in case of a backfire to act as a one way valve. This mod will seal up the airbox so that all the air that enters the box will go down the throttle bodies without any "dirty air" mixed in with it and no pressure loss down the Pair Valve. Hopefully this will be worth a couple free HP and a little better throttle responce :cool: Any thoughts?

The "feel" is better for dragracing and will allow you to find the sweet spot for the launch. You can adjust the freeplay at the lever easier with a cable. Reduced weight too.