blkbrdrydr

The Datel is velcro'd on the top of the dash above the Neutral light.

Monokey cases are interchangeable and may be used for either top or sidecases. One key for multiple cases. Monolock cases are designed as top cases only, they cannot be used as sidecases. One lock for only one case.

http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=23703

Interesting! When my 2nd set was mounted, I wasn't entirely comfortable with the ride of the front tire either and had the shop rebalance it. There is still a different feel than my first set but since I have 4,000 miles on the tire, I doubt that Michelin will replace it. However, I do believe that the tire is not exactly right.

For my height ( 5' 9" ), sitting on a Russell seat, and having VFR bars on top of GenMar Risers.... the MRA is FAR BETTER than the Givi. With the wing fully raised, the airflow hits me just above my helmet visor and by lowering my head just an inch or so, there's no wind at all. For me, the Givi had far too much buffeting and I hated how the air hit my shoulders and where it hit me near my neck. I preferred the OEM to the Givi since the air was smoother but the MRA is better than either of them, for my size, for my bike set up, and for the way that I ride.

So... do they fit the XX as well as they fit the FJR?

It's smoke, not clear. At 70 mph, in the lowest position, the airflow hits my chest in approximately the same area as the OEM screen but the flow is far smoother. In the highest position, the airflow hits just above my visor and is also quite smooth. Ducking down slightly, eliminates almost any air from hitting my helmet at all. Interestingly, there was almost no air hitting my shoulders and hardly any hitting my hands. I was riding on the freeways in 55 degree temps and my hands stayed warm wearing 3-season Olympia gloves. I'm 5'9" but my Russell Day-Long saddle is probably an inch or so higher than the OEM seat. It didn't turn the XX into a Goldwing but I'm happy with the results so far. YMMV

Damn near nicer fit than the OEM screen. For closeups, go to my Gallery. Also, what looks like marks of some kind at the lower right-hand side of the screen is actually the reflection of stamped product identification stuff from MRA There are six different positions for that wing. I've shown the lowest and the highest ones in the photos.

The people at Laminar were absolutely, positively, certain that 1998-2001 windscreens are the same and that the Laminar Touring Lip would only fit a 2002-2003 windscreens. They claimed that they had even tried to install the Touring Lips on a few 2001 models and they would not fit since the 2001 screen was different than the 2002-2003 screens. I came up with a really simple answer to my original question... I bought a MRA VarioTouringScreen instead. It arrived today, is installed, and I can't wait to try it out. Usual excellent service and prompt delivery from www.twistedthrottle.com In case anyone is interested, I installed the "standard width" VarioTouringScreen and there is plenty of clearance for the VTEC VFR bars that are sitting on top of GenMar Risers.

This was discussed quite a while ago and a lot of folks started noticing this very same thing.

Anyone using the Honda Chain Tool part #07HMH-MR1010B $78.27 seems like a decent price from Service Honda.

I've never seen a side photo of the Variotouringscreen. Does it turn down on the sides and that's what would interfere with the raised bars?

Don't know. I was on the phone with them for quite a while and they assured me that they had tried to fit that Lip to a 2001 and it wouldn't fit. So... since there doesn't seem to be anyone on the list that installed on on a 2001 and since I don't want to order something that might not fit, I'll just go with the MRA.

I've been informed that a Touring Lip is not available from Laminar that fits a 2001 windscreen. (I've yet to find out what the damn difference is between the 2001 and 2002 screens that prevents the Lip from fitting on a 2001 but Laminar assures me that it won't fit on my bike) Therefore, I've been looking into the MRA Variotouringscreen. Anybody using one?

Is anyone using the Touring version of the Laminar Lip? I was interested in ordering one but I wanted to know if anyone had specific experience with the Touring version. Additionally, Laminar shows that the Touring model is only available to fit the 2002 and 2003 windscreen but I always thought that the 2001-2003 were the same windscreen. What possible difference is there between the 2001 and 2002 windscreens?

Ride 30,000+ miles in Metropolitan Detroit and then ask me those questions. The roads are so shitty that it's damn near the same as being off-road.

Stan Wilson is a bike messenger in the UK, who put 410,000 miles on his '98 XX and had 205,000 miles on his '01 XX when he was interviewed by a British bike magazine a few months ago. In the article, Stan stated that he uses Honda OEM filters and cheap 10w 40 car oil. Of course, he changes them each week. Therefore, just ride all the time and you'll never have to worry about which oil you use in your XX.

www.day-long.com

After replacing a few sets of fork seals and TWO fork tubes due to stone damage, I decided to install a set of Fork Gaiters. I found exactly what I was looking for at this site: http://hippohands.com/Fork%20Protectors.htm I don't feel like going out to the garage and photographing them on my bike because this photo shows everything quite well and they look the same on the XX. BTW... because of the fairing on the Blackbird, they really aren't visible. Dan Klestorny answered my questions promptly and after sending him a photo and the measurements of the XX front fork, he made a set of Gaiters that is a perfect fit for the XX. The total cost for the Gaiters was $16.95 included shipping. MUCH CHEAPER than replacing fork tubes and fork seals. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING THIS PRODUCT

Starting with only the Low beam on. Battery terminals are both clean and tight. When I installed the lights, I hadn't ridden the bike in a week or so and am wondering if the battery needs to damn near fully charged to handle the voltage draw at startup. On the first night, I turned the lights on several times and only rode the bike several miles (to get in the first 10 minutes on the bulbs) and that would have never fully recharged the battery. I put the Battery Tender on this evening and it took quite a while for the green light to glow. We'll see

2 months

The solution was almost too dumb to mention but hopefully nobody else will make this mistake. I started to switch the leads between the high and low beams just to see if a ballast or igniter was faulty and while looking at the igniters, I started to wonder about the way that they were mounted. When I mounted the Igniters, I velcro'd them to the back of the instrument panel and the one for the low beam was directly behind the clock and trip odometer. Well.... I removed them from the back of the panel and zip-tied them to the frame below the windscreen and the problem suddenly disappeared. Guess that I should have thought about attaching that much voltage to the back of the instrument panel but I was in a hurry to install the lights since I'd worked late that day. :oops:

I also ended up doing what Tim said and dremeling off the flange from the factory bulb plug and using it as the spacer but I noticed that the HID capsule still wiggles a little bit even after the clip is put into place. How do I get it tighter?

Have had one on my Goldwing for 14 years and over 130,000 miles.

I was wondering the same thing