blkbrdrydr

The only warranty work ever done on my bike was to replace fork seals. No matter how often they were replaced, they kept on leaking until I replaced the pipes with new ones that didn't have damage from stone hits. Some of that damage was so slight that I wasn't originally willing to believe that it was causing the leaking seals. Finally, I installed new fork pipes, fork seals and.... Fork Gaiters There are no longer any problems with leaking fork seals.

According to Ron Ayers microfiche, Honda installed part number 52400 MAT 003 on 97,98 models and part number 52400 MAT E01 on 99 and up models. The later appears to be gas charged. Has anyone ridden with both rear shocks and is there really a noticeable difference between the two models?

I replaced the original chain and sprockets at 34,500 miles because I wanted to try and minimize some vibration that I was getting through the handgrips... not because they were anywhere close to needing replacement. Ultimately, I used a Project | One chain alignment tool to eliminate most of the vibration. When replaced, the chain was less than 1/2 way through the green, there were no obvious tight spots, very little binding, and the sprockets looked like new. I do use a Scottoiler with dual-injectors and don't care if I have to wipe a slight amount of lightweight oil from my rear rim once in a while.

I've had the dual-injector version on my XX for over 40,000 miles without any problems. Originally, I installed the Touring reservoir beneath the rear cowling for extra oil capacity but removed it when I installed a Power Commander. I replaced the original chain and sprockets at 34,500 miles because I wanted to try and minimize some vibration that I was getting through the handgrips... not because they were worn. At the time of replacement, the chain was less than 1/2 way through the green, and the sprockets looked like new. As an added bonus... the chain rarely needs adjustment.

I have their Chain Alignment tool also, and can't say enough about the high quality of the product or the excellent customer service and support.

+1... When it's above about 35, they both feel about the same, but when it's down in the 20's the left takes a lot longer to heat up, and doens't get as hot as the right... Mike WOW... I'm surprised to learn that the double wiring on the left side and the fact that OEM handlebars are steel underneath the grips isn't enough to provide for equal heat on each side. Thanks for the input

Do I need the Heavy Wall Shrink Tubing for the left side grip? I understand that the handlebars are steel in the area and Dual Star does not recommend using that tubing on steel bars. However, I've noticed that some members of this group HAVE used that tubing. Was that additional step needed in the past before Dual Star added extra wiring to the left side?

Are CBR1100XX and VFR VTEC handlebars steel or aluminum???

I've decided to install Dual Star Heated Grips. How will these work with my Pro Grip Gel Grips? I've also heard that Dual Star has now double wired the left side grip to heat correctly with aluminum handlebars. True?

Well... not all of them are as smooth as you would think. Vibration Campaign

I have the one that's in the picture. Yes, it's extremely comfortable and I've used Russell seats on all of my bikes over the past 10 years or so. When I ordered that seat, I was heavier than I am now and it was built with the heavy-duty spring but it's still VERY comfortable. Since it's also a higher than the stock seat, I get an inch or more increase in leg room and to compensate, I installed VFR bars on top of GenMar risers. It's funny that I'm currently using a Corbin G&L which I originally tried to make things more comfortable for my wife, and ended up liking it and leaving it on the bike.

I'm waiting for the Hyperpro 3D to become available.

From Service Honda: Honda Front Sprocket 17T $41.31 Honda Rear Sprocket 45T $72.74 From White Buffalo Racing: 110 Link DID ZVM2 530 Nickel $133.00 -------- TOTAL: $247.05 My OEM sprockets and chain were replaced at 34,500 miles and showed no wear on the sprockets and hardly any wear on the chain. (Thanks Scottoiler). I only replaced them hoping to remove a bit of vibration that began at around 30,000 miles but the change had no effect on reducing that vibration which is the subject of a different thread. At the end of the day, the only benefit in changing them at that time was installing that great looking DID nickel chain. With the long life of the Honda sprockets, I wouldn't bother trying to save a few bucks by installing any other brand.

The Blackbird oil filter 15410-MM9-013 is used on a total of 236 Honda models.

Use a MRA VarioTouringScreen to deflect the air into your helmet and this screen also does a very nice job of deflecting much of the cold air away from the hands. If you need more hand protection, add a set of Hippo Hands and your hands will stay very warm. Hippo Hands If you go with the Hippo Hands, you could use heated grips which should draw less power than the Widder Gloves. I wear a Warm & Safe Heated Liner with Gerbing's gloves. Although that combination would usually draw far too much power, I also run it through a Heat-Troller so that I can keep the heat (and power consumption) to the least amount necessary in order to keep me warm. If you want to wear an Aerostich, just wear a rainsuit under it. That will take care of the cold wind, the vest will keep you plenty warm and you won't need the heated chaps. Get a Turtle Fur Neck Gaiter Turtle Fur Bottom line... you don't have to do very much to the bike to commute in cold weather.

According to www.ronayers.com, that washer fits 296 different Honda models, including the CBR1100XX.

Yes... Givi cases are very watertight. I've ridden through unbelievably heavy rainstorms and everything has stayed completely dry. I prefer the SW-Motech setup because the racks themselves can be completely removed in less than a minute. Actually, I leave the racks attached to the Givi cases so that I just remover the racks when I don't want the bags on the bike. SW-MOTECH Article about my installation a few years ago. SW-Motech install

Frank, When is the 3-D shock expected and do you have a general idea of what the price might be in USD? I've used Hyperpro springs (front and rear) for 20,000 miles and have been very pleased with the quality and the ride. I do realize that the rear spring is on an OEM rear shock with 36,000 miles on it so a replacement will be needed one of these days.

Since the bulb that I bought in the Group Buy lasted exactly 4,105 miles before burning out, I didn't give a moments thought to purchasing a cheap replacement from Andy. Instead, I spent the extra bucks and purchased a 4300K Philips from Xenon Depot.

I've had that same knocking for at least the past 35,000 miles. As a matter of fact, I can't ever remember not hearing it at idle.

Have had Metzeler MEZ4 on the bike and had them last a nice long time. Had two sets of Michelin Pilot Roads and loved one set and hated the other. I'm now using Avon AV45/46 combination and believe that it's the best that I've used so far. I don't worry about handling in corners since I live in SE Michigan where there are 11 curves in 318 miles so straight line riding and longevity is what matters to me the most.

I have an OEM screen for my 2001, a Givi, a National Cycle, and a MRA VarioTouringScreen. With my Russell Day-Long saddle on the bike, I prefer the OEM in the summer and the MRA in the colder weather. With my Corbin saddle on the bike, my ABSOLUTE preference is for the Givi. I'm 5'9 and I'm sure that windscreen preference is somewhat dependent upon the rider's height and very dependent upon what looks the best on the bike.

I did some research on HIDs and learned that the behavior is usually indicative of a bulb or ballast failure about to happen. I pulled the bulbs and found that the low beam looked like the photos below while the high beam was clear in this area. I inserted the high beam into the low beam position, ran the bike for 5 minutes or so and there was no on/off cycling. The voltmeter also read a steady 14.5 I don't understand charging systems well enough to know why the voltmeter rose to 14.8 or so during this failure. Can someone explain it as if I were a 3rd Grader? The bulb lasted exactly 4,105 miles so I'm certain that I won't be going back to Andy for a replacement.

I was out riding all day and I stopped for a bite to eat before heading out on the last 100 miles to home. It was now dark and the first thing that I noticed after I began riding was that my HID low beam lost its intensity and therefore, almost all of its light after 1 minute or so. To regain the light, I had to turn the key on and off to reignite the ballast. Then I also began to notice that my voltmeter was reading 14.7 - 14.8 with the low beam operating properly. When the light would lose the intensity every 50 - 60 seconds, the voltmeter would drop to 14.4 which is its normal reading with the low beam working properly (until tonight) When I came up my street, I turned on the high beam and noticed that it did not lose its intensity when the low beam lost its. My first impression is that the McCullough ballast or bulb is beginning to fail (after 6 months) which might explain the on and off cycling but I don't understand the higher than normal voltmeter reading when the low beam was operating normally. Any ideas? Thanks

Installed mine today. Many thanks to JohnXX for the fantastic, but normal for him, customer service. I also appreciate the advice that he provided on how to eliminate the front running lights.