Emillard

Thanks for all your help guys. I put an AGM style battery in tonight and followed the appropriate charging procedures. She works like a charm again! I guess with all the talk about stator and R/R failure I just assumed that it couldn't be something as simple as the battery. Oh and when I mentioned that my headlight was out while the bike was running...well...that was because the bulb was burned out. I guess it took tinkering with a dead battery to realize I had a headlight out too. Thanks again!!!

Do you guys know what causes a shorted battery, typically? Is it something I did or just some freak thing? Thanks for all the help by the way.

Well thank you very much! I'll give it a try.

OK, So here's the situation. -Bike won't start without a jump -All fuses look to be OK -When the bike is jumped it will not stay running without the jumper cables plugged into my truck -The headlight does not work when the bike is running Here's what I've checked so far -At rest the battery is reading 12.69V -When I turn the key to the "on" position it reads 0.20V -While running the battery reads 13.9V -The bike dies when I rev it. -Testing the Stator revealed a consistent 14.5V at idle accross all wire combinations checked -I followed some flow sheet that was posted here that stated that if the battery was >13.5 and <14.5V at idle then there was not a charging issue -I don't have another motorcycle battery to test Could it be that my battery simply can no longer carry a load? If so why would that affect the headlight when the bike is running? This came out of nowhere. I haven't ridden the bike in about 2 weeks but it did have a battery tender plugged into it. I'm a bit lost here. Thanks in advance for your help.

I wear a 34/35" sleeve in a dress shirt and the coat sleeves fits me perfectly.

It's too big for me. For referrence I wear a size 44 in a suit jacket so I bought this in a size 46 thinking I would go up one size as this stuff tends to run small. Nope, not the case here. It's a great coat and I've worn in about 4 times "hoping" that I would get used to it which hasn't happened. It has a full sleeve liner and two long vertical zippers in the front for ventilation. Someone that is a true size 46 would be much better off in this coat. The jacket is the Supersport IV model. $175 shipped. Thanks, Eric

bumpity bump.

That's a stem Ram Mount. You attach a mounting arm to it and it holds various devices (GPS, MP3, phone, etc) in place depending on the attachment you use on the other end of the arm.

2002 Silverbird for sale with extras. The bike has 31,XXX miles on it and will continue to increase as I love riding it. It is in good condition but does have some rock chips and on the lower fairing panels and front fender. They're not noticeable. There are a few light scratches on the tank from my magnetic tank bag as well. The previous dinged the front of the tank while installing the Heli Bars. A wrench slipped out of his hands. I bought the bike with 7,000 miles on it and have owned it since. On to the fun stuff... -Staintune Exhaust -Corbin Seat -Ram mounts everywhere -Throttlemeisters -Powerlet cord split into 1 Cigar and 1 Powerlet socket -SW Motech quick detach hard bag racks. (these are sweet!) They are set up for Givi E36s. Bags not included -Givi rear rack -More windscreens than necessary. The two ZG DBs are in excellent condition. The others are in fair condition -Oh...and a Penske 8995 rear shock set up a 205lb rider w/gear. Approximate mileage on the shock is 4,000. -Heli-bars -Peg Lowering kit -Clear lens on turn signals -Clear tail light with integrated signals. Stock signals still functional as well. The bike really is in great condition and rides very smoothly. It's never been wrecked or even dropped. New baby coming so I'm going to sell. $4,800 as is. (Not parting it out) PM me if interested. Thanks for looking.

That's exactly how my chain sounds. I dumped some more wax on it today and it quited it down a bit but I know the underlying issue is still there. I've always used this stuff called Maxima Chain Wax. However it also syas that it's chain and cable lub. "Fling resistant, special pafarin base, o-ring chain safe" are the tag lines. I've heard good things about that Dupont stuff. Maybe I'll give that or the Spectro Super Clean a try.

Can you over-clean a chain? I am religous about washing my bike and cleaning the chain (with S100). I then dry the chain with some shop rags and apply the chain wax. However I'm seeing some rust on the inside of the chain whcih tells me I'm not getting enough lube on the inner part.

So 15K isn't unreasonable? I don't do burnouts or clutch-up wheelies either.

My 2002 XX just turned over 30,000 miles and it looks like it's time for a new chain. I replaced the OEM with an RK 530 at 14,660 miles and it looks like another replacement is due. I can hear a click click click when I start up under load. Coasting or decelerating doesn't generate this binding sound. How many miles are you guys getting out of a chain?

I just did this last summer. My garage floor was 13 years old and had a bunch of stains and settling cracks which were starting to look ugly. I used this stuff Like everyone says, the prep is the most important part. I would say the epoxy is holding up OK but not great. It can peel/flake up easily in areas that aren't properly prepped and you really don't know which areas those are...until it peels up. It has definitely flaked off where my kick stands sit. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. It is unbelievably easy to wipe up spills now. I have let oil drops sit there for 2 months and then walk up with a paper towel and they're gone. Definitely wait days before you drive on it. I waited 7 days myself. Nothing would piss me off more than having the tires ruin a tacky coating. Here are some before, during, and after pics.

Got it fixed up this afternoon. Thanks for all the input. This thing didn't turn out half bad.

Awesome! Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the help. Do you remember which one is the brake and which one is the tail light wire? I have the black wire from the bike connected to the red wire on the light. Is that one of the wires that are switched?

Well I searched high and low for this mysterious starter issue. I fucked around with all kinds of wires and finally found the solution. The starter button was stuck depressed. Nice. It had nothing to do with the tail light wiring. So the tail light is installed but one question remains. The thing is on permanently. I tried adjusting the brake light switch thing behind the heel guard on the rear brake side, but it hasn't made a difference. The light is still continuously on. Any suggestions on this one?

I bought a clear tail light off of ebay that was supposed to be plug and play. It wasn't as the plugs don't match up. I decided to strip the plug off the tail light and the plug off the bike and splice the wires. Upon doing so and "twisting" the wires together temporarily to make sure everything works, I came to find out that nothing works. The tailight sure as hell didn't work but a I got a surprise bonus out of it. Now when I turn the key on the bike starts up (assuming it's in neutral) with no starter button required. WTF? Is the tail light plug somehow tied into the starter button? Anyone have any ideas. 1.) Ebay tail light plug 2.) Original plug

I have this one. http://tourmaster.com/xcart/catalog/TriBag...g-p-147_31.html The nice thing is the bungees retract into the base of the bag. It carries just like an old duffle bag.

I pretty much agree with everyone else that believes it's worth more to those that know about it. Do you have other pictures of it? I'm not as regular as some people around here and I must have missed the write up on this thing. I'd be interested in hearing more about the process. Was this something you planned and thought out? If so, you're much more creative than me! Good luck with the sale.

I'm switching over to an Escort 8500 for my radar detector which uses a larger headphone jack than the Valentine 1. Consequently I'm selling this visual alert to buy the correct one for my Escort. (No, the plug converter/adapters don't work) Excellent condition $45 shipped

Wow, thanks for the heads up. I just checked their site and they are indeed the cheapest I've found. Simply replacing the left and right fairing seems to be cheaper than repainting them. All in all, our plastic is pretty cheap compared to some other bikes I've seen.

I found these on Ebay. They are cheap, almost ridiculously cheap which makes me wonder. :icon_think: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CBR11...sQ5fAccessories However, I found a sound clip on YouTube and they sound great. It looks like they're made in the UK as well. Anyone have any experience?

PM sent for clip-ons