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kevinskii

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Posts posted by kevinskii

  1. I agree, it seems that the culprit is the bank angle sensor or the kickstand sensor. Since you still had lights and indicators when it cut out, I can't think of anything else offhand that would prevent the engine from even cranking.

    It would probably be worthwhile to try idling the bike for a while to see if you can reproduce it. You'll want to have a multimeter ready so you can take readings on both sensors when it happens.

  2. Mine in broken too. I had a guy try to tig it back on for me since everything was still there but it broke back off about the first time I rode it. I just left it. I actually bolted the bracket onto the fairing so I wouldn't have an empty hole there but its not attached to anything on the back side. Don't worry about it if you don't get it fixed. Mine has been like that for 2 or 3 years now. The easiest and most expensive fix is to buy a new oil pan.

    That's how mine is right now. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably just leave it alone. It's one less thing that will break the next time I crash.

  3. Pretty sure that mount is on the oil pan, isn't it?

    Replace the pan or pull it and heliarc the piece back on.

    You're right, it's on the pan, not the engine block. Thanks. I wasn't looking closely enough. It's nice to know that I can pull it off if some of the JB Weld alternatives suggested here don't work.

  4. When I low-sided the XX a few months ago, the bracket mount for the lower cowl broke off the engine block. This isn't a stress-bearing part, so I thought JB Weld would make an ideal fix. Unfortunately it keeps breaking under the slightest pressure. I've tried setting it three different times, and I'm pretty sure I'm doing everything properly.

    Has anyone had better luck with another brand of off-the-shelf epoxy?

  5. What happens when you try giving it a bit of gas while letting out the clutch? I know it sounds stupid, but everything you describe seems to indicate that the idle speed may simply be set a bit too low.

  6. Check the simple stuff first.

    Make sure you tightened the terminal screws enough when you put in the new battery. :icon_smile:

    Seriously, the same thing just happened to a friend. His battery died on the freeway due to the terminals being loose.

    And like Mike said, completely remove the PCII from the system and ride with the stock computer for the first couple of weeks.

  7. Another possibility is that if you recently fiddled with your idle speed adjustment knob, the set screw may have gotten detached from the wax unit. This would cause the bike to run normally during cold idle, and then die as soon as the computer switches over to warm idle.

  8. It's a counterintuitive pain in the ass the first time you use it, isn't it? Hopefully my recent experience will be somewhat helpful:

    1) the anvil is on the back against the pin head, correct?

    Yes, that's correct. Make sure it's there. It's very easy for it to fall on the floor when you're not looking. This happened to me, and I accidentally pushed the pin through the back and destroyed the master link.

    2) now I screwed in the 'A' (red arrow) until it stops against the side plate?

    Yes. Make sure it's all the way to the stop. In one of your later posts, you attached a photo from webbikeworld where it is backed off an inch or two. I'm pretty sure this is wrong. I initially tried to do it this way, and I was having a heck of a time trying to flare the rivet because all of my energy was going into bending the rivet pin.

    3) now I screwed in the rivet pin 'B'

    Yup.

    4) While holding 'C', I keep tightening 'B', until the pin head is flared to the correct measurement, is this correct? Or am I supposed to hold 'A' while tightening 'B'?

    I'm pretty sure I held 'A' while tightening 'B'.

    PS: is it better to position it on the rear sprocket like this pic or it doesn't matter?

    I personally found it much easier to do when it was on the rear sprocket.

    Thank you very much for any help!

    Hopefully my own dumb mistakes will save you some grief. Have a great weekend!

    Kevin

  9. When I took an 800 mile round trip a few months ago, I had ~1/8" from the wear bars on my rear Z6. I thought I'd be okay. But when I got there and checked the tire, I knew that there was no way I'd make it home on it. I ended up wasting a Saturday shopping for a new tire and someone to mount it. Better to change it beforehand if you have time.

  10. I've had the bike for 3K and have always thought it smelled rich, if that makes any sense.

    I have an '02 with Yoshimura slip-ons. Two people told me that they could smell my exhaust from dozens of yards behind when the bike was under heavy acceleration. Subsequent research on this forum indicated that the bird tends to run rich, and that most PCIII maps would lean it out. I used that as my excuse to buy a Power Commander, and no longer can anyone smell my exhaust. The increase in power was noticeable, but not nearly as dramatic as some have reported. Of course, I've never had the bike dyno'd or tweaked.

  11. 9600 baud N-8-1 is typical, and I imagine these settings would work just fine with the PCIII.

    You might possibly have problems because you're using a USB-serial adaptor that was intended for use specifically with your UPS, so its driver might not be as configurable as that of an off-the-shelf adaptor. It's possible they locked in some funky settings.

    I would first try getting your USB-serial adaptor working with your UPS. Once you have it working the way it was intended to, you should hopefully be able to then just plug it into the PCIII with no problem.

    If you can get it working with the UPS but not the PCIII, then try going into the Windows device manager to see if you are able to change the settings.

    An off-the-sheld adaptor should be pretty cheap if all else fails, and others have said that they work well with the PCIII.

  12. Unless someone on here has had experience otherwise, I'd say your chances are really good that it will work. I use USB-serial adaptors with some pretty old and strange equipment, and I've never had any problems.

  13. Has anyone compared the Pilot Powers to the Metzler Z6's? I've been running Metzlers ever since I decided that I liked them much better than my Dunlops a few hundred tires (and motorcycles) ago. My only complaint is that once they start to wear out, they go very quickly. I typically get about 4000 miles out of them, and they seem to stick to the road okay.

    I'll answer my own question: I put a Pilot Power on the front today, and the handling difference from the old Metzler Z6 was immediately noticeable. The bike falls into corners with much less effort than before. It feels like the bike shed about 50lbs. If I get at least 2000 miles of longevity out of the tire, I'll probably stay with Pilot Powers for a while. It will be interesting to see what difference the rear Pilot makes, once the Z6 has worn out.

  14. Perhaps Paul's claim of 20 extra HP was a bit premature. But the claim was probably driven more by exuberance of his initial results than any deceitful intent. Hopefully someday we'll understand his initial success and be able to consistently reproduce it. But that won't happen without more development, testing, innovation and failure.

    The Blackbird story isn't their only claimed success. A quick browse of their website (http://www.urbanept.com) turned up the following:

    - Claimed 20hp gain on a CBR600RR for only 299(UK)

    - Claimed 23hp gain on an R6

    - Claimed 10hp gain on another R6 racing bike that already had very high-end mods

    - Claimed 120hp on an '02 carbureted R6 w/ their mods

    It's okay to experience setbacks during development, but my objection is that they're actively marketing, pricing, and selling their products even though a lot of research is still apparently needed. They should at least be limiting sales to their home territory while they get the kinks worked out.

    I agree that there probably isn't any intentional deceit on their part. But given the drastic difference between what they're advertising and the dyno results that were reported on this forum, I question their measurement techniques. If any of these claimed horsepower increases were even somewhat reproducible, these guys would be gods in the motorcycle world right now. We'd all have pin-ups of them in our garages. My gut feeling is that this won't ever pan out.

    I really, really hope that I turn out to be wrong.

  15. Has anyone compared the Pilot Powers to the Metzler Z6's? I've been running Metzlers ever since I decided that I liked them much better than my Dunlops a few hundred tires (and motorcycles) ago. My only complaint is that once they start to wear out, they go very quickly. I typically get about 4000 miles out of them, and they seem to stick to the road okay.

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