R1000

I don't know about the ZE912 tyres but have used both the older Falken FK512 and the latest FK452. The 512's was used on my wife 240 hp turbo car and functioned very well and lasted longer then Continental Premium Contact, which is an expensive top tyre. The 512's were used for about 30 000 miles. Falken tyres are made in Japan and manufactured at the same facilities as Dunlop tyres. The 452's I'm using now is more track and sport car oriented, it is in the same division as Bridgestone Potenza RE50, Michelin Sport SP2 and similar tyres. They are used on my 300 hp turbo car and a similar set also on the other (240 hp) car. The handle very well, stiff sides, which make the car ultra stable also at ridiculous speeds and they turn in very well to. Not much of a problem with road noice eather and they absorbs road irregularites quite good. I have no idea about how long they will last though since they havn't been on the car for more than e few weeks. Handling and grip wise they are superb. They have very good grip in wet and dry and makes almost the same lap times as the expensive brand top tyres.

I would probably be lazy and put in a new battery, replace the regulator and clean up the connector. Make sure the regualtor has a good surface contact to the frame to, it cools better then.

The fuel consumption will go down some with an advancer sprocket since the fuel will be more effectively burned (the ignition pulse comes earlier), and you can use slightly less throttle vs. before in many situations for the same degree of power. The installation is very simple. Remove the engine cover over the timing sprocket on the right side. Remove the stock timing sprocket and secure the new one using the same bolt as before. I used the adjustable advancer sprocket from Factory Pro, and the washer under the bolt shall be omitted with this unit since it is thicker than the stock sprocket. I secured it with blue Loctite and torqued the bolt to spec. Put a new gasket or a paper-thin layer of engine silicone on the engine cover mating surface, screw it into place and you are ready to launch.

So I have seen these adjustable ignition rotors on eBay etc, anyone know whether they are an advantage for a stock XX or a waste of time? :icon_think: The ignition curve is too tame on a stock carbed Bird. I think you will be happy with the result if you install an advancer. The bike will be more responsive on low to mid rpm's. You may also find that you can use a higher gear than before in many situations. In case the bike is completely stock, you should do fine with a fixed 4 degree advancer as long as you don't run on bad fuel or use a 18 T sprocket front.

Perhaps there is a way, you may look and see if this work. On the carbed bike the ignition pulse pickup is located on the right motor casing. As I could see when I installed the adjustable rotor, I could have enlarged the mounting holes for the pickup instead and made it adjustable. If the basic solution is the same on FI bikes it will probably work. Another factor is that the ignition curve is already advanced 3 degrees on FI bikes vs. carbed bikes, so there is less margin for further advance. Personally I would leave the ignition curve as is on a FI bike, you need to have some margin for pinging. When I installed the adjustable advancer on my carbed bike, I did set it to +3 degrees only since the compression also was raised, and I also used premium fuel most of the time. It didn't ping on regual fuel, which was the only fuel available at occasions, but the margin could not have been much. FI-bikes has a knock-sensor, so the engine will not be destroyed in case the ignition curve is slightly too agressive, but then the ingnition curve will be retarded by the ECU, thus basically eliminating the added ignition advance.

Hits the restriction in the middle of 5th? What restriction are you meaning? In case you have a carbed Bird you can get a better low and midrange response by putting in an ignition advancer sprocket instead of the stock ignintion timing sprocket. I did that on my Bird and the throttle response improved noticeably, as also other have experienced.

Is it the same whether the engine is completely warmed up or not and does it matter what the steady state rpm is? I would check that no hose is loosened and after that take a compression test.

The reason to the slow engine speed return to idle is found. The initial compression test indicated something was wrong; the cylinder pressure was 170 PSI on one cylinder and 195 on another. The intake valves on two cylinders leaks quite a bit. This was found by applying air pressure to the cylinders, which was connected instead of the ignition plugs. When this was done it was easy to hear and feel the airflow coming out from the intake runners. / Sherlock Holmes

Sorry, didn't mean to rub anyones nose

I've now been using the Busa for a while and become used and even perhaps addicted to it. It is not as comfy as the Bird, but this is not a real problem for me. I tested a friends Bird -97 a few days ago and was then again reminded that the Bird is VERY comfy and capable. On the plus side is that the Busa has a lot more grunts. The bike was dynoed last sunday with and without dB-killer. The dB-killer takes out about 10 hp and reduces the power from midrange and up. There is also a pic where I have plotted the Busa curve on a dyno run that was made with the modded XX (ported head and other camshafts).

The bike will be here tomorrow and the mixture screws will be adjusted. Thanks for all hints, I'll report the findings :-)

What may be shifted ? Aah, you may be into something, I believe they are almost 3 turns out at the moment.

Carbs are just synched and it was the same before and the mechanical components moves freely The return to idle is not momentary delayed, it is the rpm that falls lineary at an unusual slow rate.

A friends Bird -97 is a bit slow in returning to idle when getting off the throttle on neutral. The rpm hesitate to drop from e.g. 4krpm down to 1500, so it will take about a second or two. Definitely longer than what is felt to be normal anyway. Anyone having had the same sympthoms and know what the reason could be? The throttles moves freely in the bores, the wires have some slack and the diafragms are OK. All hoses to carb and vents are connected.

I've used Roadsmart's on the previous Bird and was VERY happy with them, as you would be. Very quick turn-in and linear in curves. I didn't use them long though before selling the bike, but have seen reports and heard from friends that they last well to. They are a top tyres, as the Michelin PR2, but have more dry grip and are more stable. PR2 has better wet grip and is supposed to last a bit longer.

You will not be disappointed with a PR2 rear I'm running the PR2 rear on a Busa and have friends that use them F/R on Birds and are quite happy with them. They will last very long if not abused. One Bird owner has reported to get more than 15000 km's (9000 miles) from a PR2 rear and about 25000 km's (15500 miles) from the front tyre. Last week I did a track day with the Busa and PR2 rear, it worked very nice, no slides and good pace.

Maybe the PR2 front is fine to then. I doubt that Michelin will sell a tyre combo where people are ditched by the front tyre. The question is more how i handles. I've seen reports where these tyres are claimed to be a bit nervous and guess this is due to the front tyre. The mileage you give for PP is good though and they should provide a better brake grip anyway.

I will probably use the same combo as you later, since I've now discovered how real good the PR2 is on rear. I have a lot of confidence in the PP2CT as a front tyre, which I've been using for several years on a sport bike. How does it handle the heavy BB front, any signs of early cupping? How many miles do you get from the PPf?

I'm running the Pilot Road II rear and a BT015 front. The Busa has BT015's but I had to replace the rear due to a puncture and the PR2 was the only acceptable available tyre at the local shop at the time. The PR2 rear works very well, I visited a track day yesterday and felt fully confident with the tyre combo that was well scrubbed in during the day. The PR2 is a light tyre that turns in very well. I think I will stay with the PR2 rear, it has dry grip enough on the Busa 08, and the best wet grip and longlivety of all sport touring tyres. The BT015 is a pure sport tyre, which is stock on e.g. GSX R1000 -07 and the Busa 08, but they wear too fast. The rear tyre was half worn after only 1000 miles and the front tyre is now down on 50% at 1500 miles. Such tyres would cause a far too high cost in the long run and is not needed even for inspired driving.

Here are two examples that shows the incredible potential of the Busa 08. 326 km/h with 100% stock engine, full system, TRE, non O-ringed chain. http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/anmviewer.asp?a=3529&z=9 9.32 s pass on the quarter mile with stock exhaust system. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXn_QGgdsGI

I've tried the 14 and was impressed, but not totally pleased performance wise, as with the Busa. The 14 is comfier in town at walking pace, but the chassi is too weak and bottoms out very easy when pushed.

Yes I runned wide in all corners until the insructor told me to countersteer much more distinct at corner entries. Bad road habits...Both the Busa and Bird are much more capable in the right hand than me

Yesterday I visited a track with som Bird-fellows to learn more about the new Hayabusa. It is nothing impresing at all from my side, the purpose was to get familiar with the new bike. The guy on the red Bird with #6, is running on a full scale track for the first time He is quite good, and a reason aside of beeing gifted, is that he has been driving Off Road machines. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLahWDvIfQ8

Maybe on paper. But the Bird is still on top for me.....then again I only paid $3100 for mine Agree, the Bird is STILL a very good looking and capable bike

The Busa has much more, and still usuable power and handles a lot better. The Bird is good but not on top, as is was in 1997, but has not developed since then