haWHYnXX

+1 - I also have them. Feel good (and I think it has more to do with the out angle of the bars rather than the height) and look stock compared to Heli's. You will need to cut off the locating tab on your brake and clutch M/C to make stock hydraulic lines work, or get longer lines. This can also be done but look even less stock than XX Heli's. Others have said that it raises you up too high which then presents problems in other areas (namely back and thighs).

Hey...I was there for that!!!

I got THIS product last week but still need to install it. (You'll probably want the Tri-Star XP model.) No personal reviews yet but a couple of my buddies use it and it really gets the attention of those behind you. I personally like the idea of the 5 flashes then steady on, but a constant flash would probably be preferable for approaching traffic that was not directly behind you at initial braking. Anyway, the product has a few different patterns that you could choose from. I'm probably going to wire it through a switch so I can turn it off for group riding. Wouldn't want a rider behind me distracted during spirited runs.

:icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: Probably not so funny at the time, but a funny story now! Thanks for clearing that up. I've actually seen the pics of your install - really clean - just never saw where you put the radio. Thanks all for your help, now just got to pony up and do it! Also thanks to TechnoGecko for your Starcom1 input. Out.

Thanks for the reply xxbird. Is the Motorola hard wired, or battery powered? Do you ever need to get into the tail to change channels? Reference the above question. Is the radio hard wired, and the PTT button allows you to turn it on and off or is it there only to give options for PTT or VOX? I'm just looking for the easiest user friendly setup. :icon_think:

Thanks for the help guys. I was seriously leaning toward the system before and now sure that I want to go that way. Gonna use for BTB, Sirius, and possibly GPS voice prompt and radar if I ever get those hooked up.

I have a chance to buy a new Autocom for a good price but have a quick question. If I understand correctly, the Autocom unit is basically a PA system and to communicate with other bikes you need to buy a FRS/GMRS communicator. Where do you guys mount the walkie?? Also, is it really that much better than say a Chatterbox, since that system is a PA and FRS/GMRS all in one.

Great job Mike. Very informative stuff.

Thanks Tim , we still need to get together sometime!

No I did not change when doing this mod - got too lazy. However, there are no flat spots or notches when moving bars side to side. Probably a next winter project. When I do change, will upgrade to tapered bearings - lots of info in the threads about this mod.

I'm sure the first comment was meant for Godspeed, and was hoping the second comment was meant for him also, but alas!! - I believe you meant that for me I know the fluids need changing but will do that with my final winter project of the year - stainless steel Galfers or Speiglers (not sure which one yet).

thanks.... the clip-ons are already polished, as are the grips and bar-ends. the triple tree was pretty easy to get off minus the two allen bolts holding the ignition to the tree that were hard to get out. something you could do in about 25 mins probably. Yeah, I also had a bitch of a time getting those allens out. Had to mount the tree upside down on the stem for leverage - those bastards are in there tight!! Also destroyed one of the phillips screws holding the key guard b/c they were so fucking tight I stripped it then needed visegrips to get it out. Godspeed - the top clamp looks great. Now I need to remove mine and polish it better. Here's a pic of mine (also polished VFR clip-ons, bar ends, reservoir covers (bought from egay), and gas cap): [attachmentid=5592]

Here you go. Go to Rich's (Hobicus) post third one down and click on the picture link. It will show them side by side. LINKY

Good idea - never thought of that. :icon_duh: However, I already went to the store!! Thanks, hex socket did the trick!! :icon_clap:

Thanks a lot. Off to the store.

Hey does anyone out there know what size allen/hex needed to remove the steering stem nut?? Already removed the clipons, then went to remove the top bridge and of course my allen set maxed out at 10mm.

First off, welcome to the forum. That undertail (it is a Mototeck) has been posted here somewhere but at that price - pretty spendy. KneeDraggers has the same one for $241 US.

Warchild, I have been noticing you here on the forum... I really appreciate you looking out for the what is left of the bird owners... :icon_clap: But anyway DAMMIT I'm in.... :icon_lmao: +1 on the props!! Oh yeah, and I'M IN!!!

Yakasuko, check this: LINKY I also used zip ties, but didn't want to tie in the center since that's where it rubbed, so drilled small holes on the sides and zip tied on the right and left of center. It does work like a charm and practically invisible.

Actually, I believe it does present issues with the full float circuitry where it may not shut down charging in one or the other battery resulting in an overcharging situation.

I know this thread is old (took me 30 mins to refind it), but I came across this while playing around. Maybe you could still use this John. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CBR11...1QQcmdZViewItem Good luck.

Check this link: Here you go? Do the search for Honda sportbikes and in the dropdown, pick CBR1100XX.

Wow, never thought of that. Thanks for the info.

Just bought an XX this June and THANKS to the many threads on this site, have been able to remedy the FI light problem, and fix that annoying CCT rattle. Recently saw a post for braided lines and one of the changes made was to delink. Question is why would one want to disable what I could only perceive as a great asset to the bike? What are the pros and cons??