Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

haWHYnXX

Members
  • Posts

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by haWHYnXX

  1. Thanks for the resistors Tim - they did the trick. I originally tried the relay patch but it did not work. So after returning home on Saturday, I jump-wired an OEM bulb to test and got the CSS to engage!!! Then replaced the bulb with resistors and a diode like the drawing and presto - cruise control.

    Thanks Rich for the great find...

  2. Wow, I've had the exact same problem and thought I was crazy. I even took the vacuum/brainbox back to Schmucks and got a new one with the same result. I'm also pretty good with a meter and everything checks out but CCS will not engage. Even called Audiovox and acted like I had a car, but they weren't able to help me either.

    Hope this is the problem so I can get this thing to work. Thanks for the post Hobi... :icon_hail:

    **EDIT** Just got home from work and was able to read the link to valkyrieriders.com and the relay idea looks like the ticket. I have a Mototeck II LED undertail and SignalDynamics brake hold modulator so am doubly screwed in the ass (end)!!

  3. Where did you hook your Datel into the system? Direct tap off of the battery, or somewhere else?

    The volt meter on my radar detector is linked off of a relay directly connected to the battery. However, there's about 3-5 items wired parallel off of that relay, so the voltage available will bounce around a bit, based on what else I have going on.

    Yeah, Datel is linked to a fuse block wired to a relay directly connected to the battery. The fuse block runs all kinds of shit.

    But I've checked the readings with hand voltmeter probes direct to battery posts and come up with the same readings - however this only at rest in the garage. Maybe I'll rewire the Datel directly and recheck while on the road?

    Sorry for the threadjack Rich...

    Thank God your girlfriend's hot. You're forgiven. :icon_biggrin:

    The hottie gets me out of all kinds of trouble... :icon_eyebrows: :icon_cool:

  4. My problem is almost the opposite. Datel voltmeter shows 14.5-14.6 normal :icon_eek: and runs up to 14.9 sometimes 15.0 when high beam is on (HID high and low). Will drop down to 14.7 when heated grips are on and high beams lit.

    R/R replaced last year in October after my run to Hwy 36 with Chris, Steve, and Phil. Still doing the same thing. Not sure if the new R/R is bad but will probably need to check both R/R and stator operation here in the coming weeks.

    Sorry for the threadjack Rich...

  5. You didn't read the fine print??

    LEGAL DISCLAIMER: This is NOT a porn site. But it is intended for adult audiences. By using this website, you declare under penalty of perjury that you are at least 18 years of age and accessing this site from a location where such material is legal to view and possess. Links contained herein not endorsed by or monitored by webmaster. This website is intended as satire for entertainment purposes only. Satire is protected by the First Amendment of the Constitution of the United States of America. RXX reserves the right to cock block when the price of a gallon of low grade gasoline rises above the price of low grade beer. Some linked pages may contain offensive language and nudity, we take no responsibility or assume liability for their content or views contained therein and we do not monitor linked content. Siklink is a non-commercial entity. This site recognizes first amendment rights to free speech in the United States of America. If offended by mature subject matter or material presented, please get a life and exit this site immediately. SIKLINK © 2001-2004 Mad Mosher Productions. All rights reserved.

    :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao:

  6. Sweet!

    I've been tinkering with a similar project on my '97 for quite awhile, but haven't had time to work on it much lately.

    I went with a '95 VFR swingarm since the linkage on the '90-'92 was so much different than the XX's. The biggest obstacle of the whole project is the fact that the XX shock mounts dead center on the frame and the VFR is offset to the left. This makes for some funky linkage no matter which Viffer swingarm you use.

    I'm also doing a few other mods along with the swingarm so it's gotten a little overwhelming.

    567169ab.jpg

    I'm looking forward to seeing yours when it's completed. Keep at it. :icon_thumbsup:

    Both of y'all - these bikes are pretty damned sweet. :icon_cool:

    So Jason, looks like you had to meld some kind of fairing/bellypan together, and what subframe/rearend you using there?

  7. I wouldn't turn the rotors, bend 'em back into shape. Usually the rotor isn't warped, rather the carrier is bent. It's not hard to bend the rotor carrier, happens way too often during tire changes. Which may explain why only one of yours is bent.

    So I should use my rubber mallet near the carrier to tweak it back. I will try that. Oh and I did change my own tire, but that was a while ago and I didn't notice the pulsing in the rotor until recently. But I am sure I could have bumped it somehow. :icon_redface:

    Jeff, see HERE - specifically post #3 and post #10 (thanks to Speedygeezer and Walt)

  8. I still think the problem lies in the way the PCIII is hooked up. There's no way for it to disable the fuel pump unless it is grounding a circuit it shouldn't be.

    When you get it hooked back up, check the display on the PCIII (like we talked about), and if the display is working, try disconnecting the TPS wire and injector connectors one at a time until the fuel pump comes back. I'm guessing either the TPS tap is wrong, or one of the injector connectors is reversed.

    I also seem to remember a thread saying that it's important to ground the PCIII to the battery and not earth (frame). Good luck with your diagnosis.

  9. I made nice with the local stealer shop manager. He let me borrow his for a few days when I changed out my swingarm. He said he doesn't think he's ever used it, but Honda sends him all the specialty tools needed for free.

    As speedygeezer said, follow the procedure for install.

  10. I'm too lazy to search, but there are threads out there about this subject. Some cut the stock fender to just under the rear taillight and cut a hole in the bottom of the taillight lens to light up the license plate. You can then glue/epoxy a piece of plexiglass to cover the hole.

  11. Just getting around to hooking up the Pro Oiler and need to be sure about which speed sensor wire to tap into.

    If I got it right, the snap connector/wire harness is under the tank on the left side of the bike under a huge mushroom rubber cover with a lot of other connectors, right?

    If so, the connector that I believe is correct has green, black, and pink wires and the actual wire that needs to tapped is the pink one.

    Just want to be sure before I do all this work for nothing.

    Thanks all.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use