ActionStarCBRxx

That link to Dynatex was exactly what I was looking for!! See how one could get confused right... Dyna vs DynoJet... see how one could get confused right? *Hopes they are buying this* I should have put in more information regarding my blackbird... I can see how one would wonder what the F' I am doing messinng around with something that I can't even get the name right. The blackbird has a two brothers exhaust from the headers back. The carbs were rebuilt using a stage 1 kit. And the front sprocket is sized to get me more bottom end speed. She won't run on 87 octane gas she knocks and spits uncontrollably. I haven't tried the mid-grade, but I use super unleaded in it. And I put Sea Foam in it about every third tank. (1.5 oz per gallon). I was hoping by getting an ignition retard/advance system, that it would allow me to tune the bike a little more. Thanks agian all for the help and lack of flaming as I try and sort this out.

Thanks to both of you all for not flaming the n00b. I coulda sworn back in my FJ days... they only had carbs 85-93. That there was a PCII for them and it had an ignition module. But there isn't and I must have been on crack or something. I musta been thinking about a stronger coils or something. *shrugs* I need to go back through the FJ forums. but thats an FJ and this is a bird... worlds apart. :icon_duh: Anyway, ignition/ fuel management is a voodo magic for me. Thanks for the info on the ignition advancer and the no flaming even though it probably was deserved! I can swallow pride and looking stupid to learn more about this great bike!

So you saw the post about the Power Commander group buy... yet us 97-98 carbed bikes can't partake since the manufactors don't make em for the carbed bikes anymore. Ignition/Spark Advance is like black magic to me... I can change a plug, tell if a plug is too rich or too lean but beyond that, its one of those things that I know little about. :icon_think: The question becomes what options do us with carbed bikes have that want to modify the timing? 1) Replace bike with FI model 2) Replace carbed system for an FI system of a damaged/wrecked blackbird 3) Score an ebay find on a PCII from another blackbird up for sale or wrecked 4) Manually change cam timing by advancing or retarding cam - Any thoughts from Engine builders on this feasability on this? 5) Find/Determine if other models of PCII will work the 97-98 blackbirds. 6) What do the guys with NOS/Turbos due if they don't have a PCII? Any thoughts or experience from anyone on this? Throw out other options if you think they are feasable.

Any cupping? Or if there was cupping, about when did it occur? If the tires did cup, how bad to the bars shake at 45-50 mph on deacceleration? I need new tires, just tore threw a set of D208's in 4000 miles. Back has tread, but front is cupping really really bad. Thanks for the post, this just re-confirms that this is a good tire to go with. The fact that you run in rain and cold also tells me its a good tire for what I am wanting.

So what the heck our us sorry suckers with the carbed bikes supposed to do? :icon_wall: Man I feel so unloved!! Isn't this discrimination against the true black CBR XX's? On a side note... there are several Blackbird folks that have VFR's as well. Can we get on pricing on that? Or can you PM me with how you went about getting a group buy if a VFR model can't be included on the group buy as well? Thanks for checking.

For de-glazing.... the tool instructions on use If you do the rotor hone...you should also take you pads out and sand them flat again. Use a piece of glass to put the sandpaper on and rub the pad on the sandpaper to get a flat surface. Then put them back on a follow normal break-in procedure. This will allows the whole surface of the pad to contact the rotor again. Never saw this before. Thanks for sharing it! :icon_clap: Thanks for all the tips. I love how there are so many ways to achieve the results. Its all a matter of preference, and how much time you can invest and how you want it to be when your done.

My front rotors appear to be pretty glazed. (very shinny almost mirror like reflection with smeared irregularities) I use the brake cleaner on them to remove dirt and stuff, but still see the glazing. In a car, you could take the rotors in and have the turned. What does one do for the bike rotors? I don't have deep grooves etched in the rotors... so I think they are still good. The bike stops decently... its not as strong as it was. I was going to do drain/replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. While there, I thought it I would address the rotors. Any thoughts? :icon_shifty:

Strong believer as well. I use it every other fillup. I think its supposed to be a 1/2 ounce per gallon... I just pour in three ounces to one tank of gas. You can use more depending on how bad the fuel is. You can also purchase it at Oreilly's Auto Stores as well. I missed the part about running super unleaded in the bird, so was running the cheap gas and not riding very often. Bike backfired and made all sorts of unpleasant sounds when getting on the throttle... she let me know she was not happy. Dumped the tank and filled it up with Super and Sea Foam... noticed a difference within 20 miles. Great Stuff!

I am glad someone finally asked this one... It looks like there is something up with my bike as well. My mileage is pretty bad. I have a 97. Stage1 Jet Kit, Two Bro Single exhaust and down a tooth in front. Mileage is hi twenties maybe a 30-32 mpg if I stay off the throttle (all in town driving) . I know I run rich, I can see it in the exhaust. Thanks for bringing out this question... I need to investigate this further.