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Posts posted by Flash987
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This past weekend I replace all three sets of brake pads on my 02 BB. The fronts were about 80% gone and the rears about 95%. I installed ECB HH Sintered after thoroughly cleaning the calipers including the pistons, slides etc. The resluts are great, much lighter touch required on the front brake handle, the Bird stops faster, but the reat pads drag. I did the ole spin the wheel thing and the front rotates about 2 turns, but the rear less than one. The chain is properly lubed so that is not the problem. If I give the rear pads a slight tap with screwdriver they release easily and the rear wheel spins freely.
Somewhere in the multiple threads about brakes I remember a "relief" hole being mentioned, but not sure where it is or how to inspect or clean it out.
Any suggestions?
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Should be able to pick-up a used CBR1100XX right handle bar easily enough.
There are many that have replaced the stock bars with the VFR bars here on this forum.
I know I sold mine a few years ago when I went to the VFR bars
Hey John,
If you still need one or both stock bars I have them in Boynton and you can have them for $0. Give me a call if interested
John Bruyn
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Landed a good paying two week contract for April and have been contacted by two very good prospects with interviews to come. Nothing is for sure, but it looks like I should be able to keep my BB and not have to sell.
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Bump for price reduction to $4,700
Possible delivery? lol
Oklamhoma is a wee bit far for a delivery
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BTTT... Shoot I'd ask more for my 2002 and it's got 45K miles on it..
I agree, but unemployment + bills + a father's responsibility = The toys got to go
If I can land a job in the next few weeks then I will be in the clear and not have to sell.
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Bump for price reduction to $4,700
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Ooops, yes John Smith you are correct, a LED not HID tail light.
http://www.flashequipment.com/index.cfm/pr...lturn-light.cfm
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Unemployment forces sale.
For Sale 2002 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird $4,700
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Contact: John Bruyn 813-230-8933
14,874 miles
Some minor scratches from driveway tip-over.
Previous owner probably tipped the bike over because there were scratches on the original exhaust system and fairing (right side), but no fairing cracks or other damage that I could ever find.. Had the right fairing repainted to fix scratches.
Tires are fair, will need to be replaced within 2k miles
Add-ons:
HID Headlights (high and low beam)
HID Tail light
Tank Bra
Corbin gunfighter seat, his-and-hers
New VFR handle bars
Dave's lowering foot pegs
Akrapovic 4-1 exhaust system
Power Commander PCIII USB
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Saw this on Craigslist for South Florida (Miami Area)
Thought it might be worth it for parts if nothing else.
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I learned which one of those relays under the seat and next to the battery is the tip-over switch. The one with the word "UP" on it. After f***'n around with the wiring and checking all the connections I noticed the arrow and the UP word on the tip-over switch and realized I had it in upside down. Arrrgggg, I'm and idiot. Well at least I learned more about the BB.
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Thanks, I'll start there.
I general, what does it mean when the FI light stays on after the ignition is turned to the run position?
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I removed the sub frame along with the rear fender to repaint, clean etc. All was going just fine on reassembly with no missing or extra parts. All was good until I tried to start the bike, the FI light stayed on, which I know means trouble. I checked all the connections and moved the fuse block, relays, wiring harness ,etc around, tired again, the FI light went off after I turned the key on like normal and it started. Thought that fixed it, but after I went back and finished tucking in the wires blocks etc and was ready to put the seat and rear cowling back on I tried to start the bike again and son-of-a-bitch the damn FI light stayed on the engine wouldn't start. Everything looks good and all the electrical components work including the engine turning over. When I turn the key on I can hear that none of the relays are getting juice and I imagine that is why the FI light stays on and it won't start.
Any ideas where to look for the source of the problem. Maybe I pulled a wire loose or shorted out something.
Previously the BB had no problems and it ran great.
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I've got the brake lever, but you'll have to swap out the perch/mount/whatever you call it. Mine was swapped to fit on a 5/8" master cylinder.
It's a two piece lever if you look- the part that bolts to the M/C will need to be swapped back to the XX part.
$10 shipped for both?
PM Sent
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Anyone have an extra clutch lever they care to part with?
Decided to clean the BB today and did not check to see that the side stand was all the way down when I moved it foward to clean the wheels and then I said "oh shit" as I watched it tip over. Broke the windshield, and clutch lever and slightly scratched the side cover, but no major damage.
I am such an idiot
Any reason you don't use the centrestand? Bad luck BTW
Usually do, but was doing a quick wipe down and was lazy. That will teach me. In retrospect it is probably a good thing because I had thumb surgery 4 weeks ago and have only been out of my cast for a week and was contemplating going for a ride. With my thumb at about 10 pct strength it was a bad idea. Maybe someone upstairs was giving me a not so gentle hint and telling me to get my head out of my ass and use it for something more than a hat rack.
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I think my stocker is still out in the garage somewhere, it's powder coated black. If I can find it, you can have it for $5 shipped.
Sounds great, thanks. If you have a matching brake lever, I'll take both so they match.
Let me know what you find.
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Anyone have an extra clutch lever they care to part with?
Decided to clean the BB today and did not check to see that the side stand was all the way down when I moved it foward to clean the wheels and then I said "oh shit" as I watched it tip over. Broke the windshield, and clutch lever and slightly scratched the side cover, but no major damage.
I am such an idiot
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Stock exhaust system off an 02 XX with about 12k miles.
Cans are in very good to excellent condition. Left can has some small surface scratches on the underside which are visable if you are on your hands and knees. Header has one very shallow dent on one of the bottom tubes.
$75 each piece or $200 for all three + shipping. Open to offers if price is too high
Also have one right side can with some heavy scratches on it $10 + shipping.
Send me your email address if you want more pics. Call 813-230-8933 for more details
John
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One bump and I am done.
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Paypal sent, thanks Stan
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I'll take it.
PM sent
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$50 if anyone is interested. If not, I am giving it away to a friend.
Joe Rocket textile jacket Ballistic series, size XL in almost new condition. Open mesh material that is very cool in the Florida heat. Does not have a liner with it. I bought this jacket from a friend at the same time I bought his motorcycle. I really like the style, but it is just too big for me. Between the previous owner and myself it has been probably not been worn more than a dozen times. The guy wearing it in the pictures is 6'2" 245 so you can get an idea how it might fit you. Paid $150 for it, not exactly sure what it is worth, make an offer. Open to trades also for a jacket, size large or some other interesting farkle that would look good on my XX.
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The threads are stripped in the switch/pod where one of the throttle cables atttach and I'd like to replace it. Anyone have one laying about? Maybe one of you that changed out this part for the European one that contains the headlight on/off selector.
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Well gents, I must say that the english language sure has gotten punished on this thread.
Rear brake pads dragging
in The Garage
Posted
The rears drag at different times. I can notice it most when I use the rear(foot) brake during a stop. When sitting at a stop light sometimes the bike rolls back and forth freely like it should while other times I can barely move it as though the brakes are still being applied.
I did not bleed the system, but will do that this weekend and see if that helps.
Thanks for you suggestion.