JasonW

No problem. Yeah, the manual just simply says "remove cables from throttle tube", but no mention as to how. One small step I did forget to mention ,that you would have figured out, was to remember to unplug the brake switch from the master cylinder as well.

You won't really be able to get more "slack" on the throttle cables, so in order to remove them from the throttle tube without taking them free at the throttle body you will need to remove the right handlebar. First take off the front brake master/lever and then split the right switch (two screws from underneath). Remove the bar end, then loosen the handlebar clamp and remove the clip on the fork tube then pull the bar up. You can then slide the throttle tube/switch assembly off the bar. Once off the bar, the throttle tube can be manipulated enough to get the ends of the cable off. There may be another way, but I just went through this myself yesterday and couldn't get enough slack on the cable without taking it off the handlebar. Hope this helps.

Kinda spendy compared to the DID 530ZVM, but sounds promising. Chrome, you say? :eyebrows: Where did you get yours? Hopefully, mine will last through this winter, but I'll be needing one in the not-so-distant future.

Another XX in Omaha??? This isn't Johnny Monsoon in disguise is it? :wink: We'll have to get together once I finish rebuilding my bike. I love the custom headlight on Jo Jo's bike. Too 12ish looking for me, but I love that it's custom and he did a beautiful job on it. What I'd really like to have is a headlight that allowed me to see through a corner a bit better. I like the piggyback configuration on the XX, but just don't like the low, flat ceiling of the beam that leaves you blind once leaned over.

Personally I would get my bike back from that shop and try a few things to fix it myself. If he's wanting to change the plugs again "just to be sure", then I'd say he might be milking you. I'm no FI expert, but you can verify for yourself if 2 of the cylinders are not firing by simply feeling the warmth off of the header (downpipe). Obviously, don't grab a hot pipe, but you'll be able to tell if one or more cylinders is cold. The blackbird coil fires 2 cylinders per coil, so if it's a pair that are cold you may want to compare with what coil fires which pair. Do you have a service manual? If not, get one. If you suspect bad gas and possibly two clogged injectors, first try swapping out the gas and running some SeaFoam through it to see if it clears up. If not, you can get the offending injectors cleaned for cheaper than replacement. I'd try some of these simple things before shelling out the cash for someone to experiment on your bike. If you are not mechanically inclined whatsoever and have the money to pay someone then that's understandable, but no one will take care of your bike the way you will. You said that you changed the plugs yourself? Did you double check everything before reasembly? That's always a good place to start. Also, you may try disconnecting the PC to rule that out as well, ya never know. Good luck, and let us know what you find out.

So what did the guy at Walmart have to say about this? :poke: (Sorry, just couldn't resist. :twisted: ) They both are "endless" chains, meaning they don't have clip-on master links but rather a "rivited" or "staked" master that requires a special tool to stake it and calipers to make sure you did it correctly. Most shops (but not Walmart) will swap a chain fairly cheap, and with your past, I'd suggest having someone else do it. Chains aren't anything to be fucking around with, but then again, neither are tires. :wink:

The last time I bought a chain Whitebuffalo was out of them, so I ordered from MAW. They have a 110 link available. Scroll to the bottom. http://www.hipersports.com/did.htm#Chains

LOL. My post count isn't very high, but I've been around awhile. :wink: It's the short-term memory that goes every now and then. 8) :wink: I think "Holer" is the lesser of two evils. I'm not a big husker fan myself which is almost sacreligious around here. I guess I should be proud since they did have quite a run there, but I'm just soo tired of all the hype and I'm not a football fan(atic) at all. You know it's all going downhill when they let Tommy Lee shoot his show there. :roll: But that's a whole 'nother story...................

Thanks Steve, but I think that Dean did the conversion and sold it to St. PeteXX. It was on a 01+ as well. I'm just looking for a replacement dash for my '97 rebuild and found a set off of a '99 that I'm hoping will work without too much drama.

Not sure who moved the thread, but thanks for the advise and offer to help, Dean. I'll give it a try. If it doesn't work on my '97 I've got a 2000 sitting here in need of one as well.

This probably belongs in the garage, but I'm hoping for a quick response. I've got a line on a relatively cheap set of gauges off of a 99 and was wondering if they would work on my '97. I know that they replaced the sidestand light with the FI light, but that isn't important to me. I just need to know if the harness will hook right up and all the gauges will work. Does anyone know?

And of course, a 530 looks even beefy-er. :poke: It's been a while, but I don't recall the washer getting cupped like that when I installed my aftermarket sprocket.

When it does come time to change the plugs, don't use a feelergauge,phil. They come pre-gapped.

http://www.mc-xpress.com/ edit: I just noticed that they only show the carbed bikes. I thought they made an intercooled system for FI as well, but apparently not.

Most cheap hand tools are okay for the shadetree mechanic, but I wouldn't skimp too much on a torque wrench as you found out. Good thing you realized the problem before you broke something too serious. Crapsman is about the cheapest I'd go on a torque wrench and I've even seen my share of them be waaaay off on calibration. Enough to break a head bolt on a big block Ford (of course the user should have felt something wasn't right, but nonetheless.....) You're probably good to go with the axle torque, as long as you made sure to sinch down the adjuster bolts.

SELL IT! Then buy another one in a few months. :wink: Last year I went on a ride with a guy who owns an independent shop. While underway we notice another rider who's rear tire was showing cord so we go back to this guy's shop to replace it. He gets it mounted and balanced then goes to put it on the bike. He asks the owner of the bike to lean on the seat while he takes a breaker bar to the axle bolt to tighten it. He damn near lifts the bike with the rider off the ground tightening it and then doesn't even fuck with the adjuster once it was tight. :roll: I expect this from a stealer, but not an independant. This is why I won't let anyone wrench on my bike.

There's no way that you'll gain 20hp with a coating, but it is benificial. Keeping the heat in does allow the gas to flow better and it keeps things cooler under the fairing. One thing to keep in mind is that if you coat the header only, it'll transfer some heat back to the canisters. How much depends on from what the canisters are made. Considering how hot the stock cans get as they are, I would imagine that with a coated header they'll be really toasty. Chris (North) coated his stock header awhile back, but I'm pretty sure he was running Jardine slip-ons at the time.

I think it's because the exhaust header runs down that side.

Another trick to add to this is to loosen the bolts before jacking it up. That way you don't have to worry about pulling it off the jack or whatever you have supporting it.

You're absolutely correct, Joe. No tabs for the carbed version's ducting/screens on the FI nose.

Thanks Josh, but where the hell were you when I originally posted that I needed forks? J/K I appreciate the link.

By "almost perfect" I mean that it will be perfect once I buff the tiny little scratch out of it. It's so shallow that I honestly think that a swirl remover will take it right out.......no heavy compound necessary. BUT, since the forks aren't in the deal.................... :twisted: Ha ha!

Again, NO. Damn it, why do you come on here and laugh in my face......then keep on asking questions? :evil: The '99 black doesn't have as much of the gold metallic flake in it as the '03. That being said, I just got an almost perfect lower right off of an '03 that doesn't match my '97. If you've got a lower off an earlier black, I might be interested in a trade.........my '03 lower for your earlier lower AND the forks! HAHA! :twisted:

Doh! NO they won't. You should tell me where you found them and maybe, just maybe they'll work for me. :wink:

IPS Weld-On #3 won't work on ABS as you found out. It's really made for acrylic. It's strange that I can't find the markings that show what the tail section is made from. I know that the upper is ABS and the lowers are PPE (polyphenylene ether). By the looks of the breaks on my tail section, I would guess it to be ABS. I would recommend going back to the plastic supply house and exchanging the Weld-on for something that is designed specifically for ABS.