JasonW

Yeah, but you forgot one. Floor jack on the oil pan as far forward and close to center as possible. Get the wheel in the air and spin it to see if it grinds. While it's up and you're sure that it's stable, turn it side to side to see if the clunk is inside the hub. Straps connecting to the rafters is good insurance, but I don't use that method due to a 16' ceiling. If you have to remove the wheel, it's a good idea to break the bolts loose while the wheel is on the ground to avoid tipping it off the jack. Do you have a service manual? Torque wrench? I'd recommend both, but I can help with the service manual part of it if you don't have one. If you can't find someone to swap out the bearings, you might be able to do it yourself if you can just get your hands on the replacement bearings. It's not rocket science, and makeshift tools can be used in place of the "special tools".

Where is the "clunk" coming from.......the wheel or the stearing head? Did you spin the front wheel while you had it up in the air? Are you using a torque wrench when you tighten the axle? I'm still thinking wheel bearings.

Ugh, don't take it to the dealer. If you're not mechanically inclined, isn't there someone nearby that could help you? Based on the little info given, my first guess would be the front wheel bearings. There is an axle sleeve inside of the wheel that could be causing the noise even though there isn't any side to side movement of the wheel. Also, check the left caliper pivot bolt. I've heard of these working loose.

Just so you know, you don't actually need the plastic connector for the R1 regulator to make it work on the XX. Somewhere there is a write up about how it's done, but I have no idea where that may be. Basically, you simply pull the spade connectors out of the XX harness and plug them directly into the R1 unit. Don't know the difference between years, but I've got a carbed bike, so if you need to know how the wires are arranged on it, I can pull mine apart quickly to check. Since it doesn't matter what order the yellow wires connect, I found that the XX plastic connector if cut in half and turned 180 degrees will connect right into the R1 unit. Then you only have the other 2 wires to deal with.

I modified a cigarette lighter extension cord by cutting off the male end and wiring in an inline fuse. I have this wired directly to the battery and the female end of it snaps right in the U-lock holder under the seat. I usually have the XM powered off of it, but I can then also use it for other accessories as well if the need should arise. You didn't say what receiver you have but the XM Roady can be mounted to the upper tree using the supplied swivel mount, as many have done. I didn't want the Roady pivoting with the bars, so I made my own mount out of some scrap polycarbonate that attaches to the front of the tank and positions the radio right above the steering stem.

As tomek pointed out, a stepped header design has it's advantages especially for the street where you don't want to lose any low to mid range hp. Large tube headers typically sacrifice a bit of the the low end for the gain up top. I agree that TiForce is the best system available, but I think it's advantages (other than weight reduction) aren't going to be too obvious unless other mods to the engine are made. IMO, $1100 is a lot of cash for the little gain (if any) that an exhaust system alone will give you on a stock motor. Like shovelstroked said, sound and budget are going to be your biggest determining factors on a stock bike. I've got a bone stock motor and have tried several 4-2-1 systems and now am running the stock header with high mount MIGs and like it the best, but that decision is based on looks and sound. Now, if they made high mounts that are as quiet as stock, I'd be all over them. If the stepped header design is appealing to you, and a TiForce isn't in your budget and a few pounds difference don't matter to you, then check out 2-brothers. The one I have is old and I don't know if they still make them the same way, but it has the same size tube as stock for the first 3 or 4 inches, then steps up to a larger diameter. The Yosh system uses a larger diameter tube the whole way. Edit: Oops, I missed the "cost is not an option" part. Go with the TiForce, or better yet, have a system custom made for you from scratch.

Good idea. Anyone with a 900rr that can confirm? That site looks to be old as there isn't anything newer than '99 listed. I've been meaning to get out to or call the Honda dealer to see what size bore the CBR600RR master is since, cosmetically, it's a perfect match for the 'bird's and will probably be more readily available than the 900rr. I'll let you know what I find out.

Here's a few articles I keep in my favorites file: http://www.rideredny.com/suspension_set_up_words_by_andy.htm http://www.rideredny.com/suspension_setup_explained.htm

Funny.....when I do a search for "6mm mod", this is the only thread that comes up. :? If you don't want to drop the shock all the way down, just slot the washers so they will slip in from the front.

The good 'ol yellow Serv-a-lite box at the hardware store should have thumbscrews. I've got a catalogue here and they list them in several lengths (1/2" - 2"). If you need part #s, just holler and I'll post them.

Wow, he seems to know you pretty well, Tim. NBL, man. :wink: Now, so I don't get my post deleted :wink: , I'd probably be interested in a set of these.

I'm no electrical expert by any stretch, but what from what I'm reading here my guess would be that the simple act of starting it every couple of weeks and letting it run for only 20 minutes is what was slowly draining your battery. Like Joe said, the bike's system isn't that stout and it's probably not topping the charge back up to snuff each time, therefore becoming more and more weak every time you start it again, until one day it doesn't start. From what I understand, a battery tender will only keep a battery at roughly the same that it's currently in and not actually charge it.....especially if it doesn't have enough juice to start the bike. Also, I've never gotten anywhere near a full charge with a 2 amp charger on for only an hour. I would recommend leaving the battery on the 2 amp charger overnight (providing it's the type that will cycle on and off when it reaches full charge) and then do your tests and what others have suggested again.

I think an FI bike takes a different battery #, but I'm not sure. The Yuasa YTX12-BS I'm using in my '97 is a 10AH and measures 3.5" x 6" and is 5.125" tall. And yes, Tim is right, 7" is too wide for the tray.

D&D's aren't much quieter than open headers either. :wink: Here's a place that makes an underbody slip-on for the R1 that might give you some ideas. http://www.mcmcustom.com/MCM%20Mirage.htm

Wow! You were right, Randy.......Mike is definately quick to reply! Here's what he said about the levers..... "Yes all of pazzo levers are identical. What makes them unique to each bike id the "PERCH" block that connects the lever to the master cyl. Technically you could use the same levers for an infinite number of bikes as long as you had the perch blocks for the appropriate applications." I guess that makes me a little bit less Idiot-er.

Thanks guys! I sent Mike an email to see if my lever theory is correct. Okay, I'm an idiot as well.... for reasons altogether different than you guys. :wink: I missed the part in your post, Jeremy, about the bore size being stamped into the casting of the MC. I didn't realize that I simply had to look at the MC to determine bore size. Duh! :roll: The 12's MC is a 5/8" bore and I'm really hoping that the 600RR is the same. I might try to stop by the stealer tomorrow and look to see what other bikes might be compatible.

The pivot point is identical between the stock ZX12 and the XX levers. The only difference is the portion that actually contacts the MC and this portion is a seperate piece on both levers. In fact, if I slip the XX lever into the 12's perch even the portion that activates the brake switch fits and functions perfectly. The part that contacts the plunger on the MC would work as well, but the XX's is cupped to accept a ball on the MC where the 12's is flat. So my thinking is that if I were to produce aftermarket levers, I'd try to make one lever work in as many applications as possible by only changing the portion that contacts the MC. By the description on Dale's group buy page, I'm under the impression that a special "receiver block" was designed to make an existing lever work on the XX, therefore meaning (In my mind) that the lever itself was intended for a different bike (or many other bikes by simply changing the receiver block). I'll try to contact them tomorrow to see if I'm an idiot as well. :wink: Also, IIRC the CBR600RR has a MC that looks very similar to the XX's. I wonder if it would be compatable instead of the one from the CB400sf? Didn't you guys delink before the release of the CBR600RR or at least shortly thereafter? Is there somewhere that I can easily find out the MC bore sizes of different bikes so I can compare?

Ooops. I'm surprised this doesn't happen more often (maybe it does), since no one refers to it as the "lifter", but instead, simply the "CCT".

Tim, I'm not sure what the bore size is on the 12. I'll do some digging to try to find out. I appreciate the offer for pics, but it's not necessary right at the moment. I'm sure if it's good enough for you and Howie, it's good enough for me. :wink: Jeff, You can say that again. :wink: I had thought about using the busa front as well, but found a smokin' deal on the 12 stuff. Besides, I couldn't find an aftermarket fender for the 'busa that I liked, and the stock unit won't match what I'm doing with the rest of the bike. Is it a straight fit, or do you have to do a lot of machining (steering stem, etc...)? Also, are the handlebars in the right position or do you require something like Helibars in order to clear the tank surround on the 'bird? Curious since the top yokes are similar in design. I don't have the 'bird torn down just yet to try it on, but I did get to quickly slip the stem/trees in my frame when I had it apart after the crash. At the time the season was ending soon and I wanted to ride again so I fit some used stock forks in there to get me by. As far as I can tell so far, the ZX12 stem and bearings will fit straight in but the top yoke will need some work to accept the XX ignition unit. Nothing really major, though. I'm thinking mismatched master cylinder reservoirs will be the easy/cheap route since I already have them. I was just hoping to find something that would be a better match to the stock unit before I pull the trigger for levers. Now that I think about it, I think the Pazzo levers are pretty much the same, except for the portion that links the lever to the master cylinder. I'll have to contact them to find out for sure, though. If so, I could always buy one for the ZX12 brake side and then convert it over later if I find a master that works with the 12's brakes (providing they'll sell the receiver block seperately). I may have just answered my own question. We'll see. Thanks for the responses, guys. Any other ideas/suggestions are welcome as well.

I'm looking to get in on the Pazzo lever group buy, but I've got a situation I need to clear up first. I've got a front fork setup from a ZX12 that I'm fitting to the 'bird including the front brakes/wheel/rotors/calipers/etc.... I was originally going to use the ZX12 master cylinder as it looks similar to the 'bird's, but shaped a little different (meaning it's a cast piece and not a plastic "urine sample" style remote container). Obviously, the brakes will be delinked and I'll be using the stock ZX12 calipers (6 piston Tokicos). What I'd like to know is: Is there Honda replacement master cylinder that will work with these calipers that closely matches the stock unit (to match the clutch side), or should I just order a brake lever for the 12 and the clutch lever for the VFR and call it good, since I know it will work? Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Am I the only one to notice that that rear rotor is a stock unit that someone played connect-the-dots on, then trimmed the edge to contour around the slots? Looks cool!

I'm no suspension expert myself, but I'd have to agree with Tim here. So, Helvet, you're saying that the HyperPro springs will magically set the correct sag for you no matter what weight you are, so you make up for ride height by dropping the forks in the trees?.....or are you saying that the correct sag isn't even important in suspension tuning? Does Hyperpro allow just anyone to sell their product without any knowledge of suspension whatsoever? arcticflipper, I wouldn't waste your money on a spring change. The stock spring rate is okay for your weight and you would benefit more from revalving or changing the oil weight and setting the sag correctly, IMO. All of the compaints about the stock setup being undersprung are from much heavier riders than yourself.

Normal?!?....What in the hell are you guys talking about? NO, that's NOT okay!..........9,000 miles between oil changes is far too long, IMO. Or did I read that wrong? What was the question?........

Yes you can plug it right in and it will work, but the middle position (parking lamp) won't do anything........obviously since the US spec bikes don't have one. I'm thinking of wiring mine so that the first postion (from off) will turn the headlight on without the running lights in the mirrors and the second position will run the headlight AND the running lights as well. I just haven't had time to mess with it just yet.

The stock RH switch length on the 2000 I have torn apart here measures a whopping 31" long. The euro switch I have on my '97 looks to be about 18" long. Like Joe said, the mounting point of the harness to the upper stay is why there is a difference in length. The 2000's wire bunches with the rest of the harness on the left side of the upper stay while the '97's wire goes from the switch directly to the harness.