JasonW

Wow, smokin' deal! :shock: Thanks Pete! I'll call them on Mon.

That's a good price, G2, but I didn't think that they made the ZVM in gold? I got my last chain (ZVM) from MAW for $136 including shipping last fall, but am looking for another for a buddy. Is that definately a ZVM as stated in the auction?

I'll be able to check for you on Mon. My buddy parts bikes on ebay and happens to have a stripped XX and a 954 at his shop. I need to go there Mon. morning anyway, so I'll put the two together to see if it'll bolt up. I'll let you know what I find out.

Just fax them, man. It seems that it's the only way they can be reached from here.

I knew I was forgetting something........ The rear subframe was changed in the area that mounts the R/R. And, the whole undertray was changed to allow room for the ECU......and the new, big, ugly tail light. :razz: And at some point, the fork lowers went from having a brushed finish to having a cast finish on them. Had to be sometime after 2000.

Jeeze, I can't believe no one has mentioned the obvious.............. :wink: The carbed version windscreens don't have the gradient fade and the irridescent coloring in the lower portion that covers the dash wiring. The carbed versions have a "Honda" sticker on the nose between the headlight and windscreen and the FI versions have it in the screen itself. The carbed versions don't have PGM-FI in the CBRXX stickers on the lower fairings.........duh! Carbed bikes have black case covers instead of that ugly goldish color. Carbed bikes have black painted stainless rotor carriers instead of the gold aluminum ones.....and the aforementioned larger hub. No choke lever on the FI bikes......duh! Knock sensor added to FI bikes. "Friction damper" added to tranny in FI bikes in an attempt to minimize the 'clunk' when shifting from Neutral to 1st. Clutch ratio changed for FI bikes resulting in lighter action. Clutch friction plates reduced from 9 to 7 on FI bikes. Larger radiator for FI bikes. Oil cooler relocated and enlarged on FI bikes. Radiator fan updated on FI bikes. Different shaped crossmember behind steering head (the one that's in your way when changing plugs) on FI bikes. Different cartridge rods in front forks on FI bikes. Lighter footpegs were added to FI bikes. Different handlebar castings on FI bikes. Redesigned front brake lever for FI bikes. The sidestand light on the dash was replaced with the FI light in '99. Hope that covers it. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but that's all that comes to mind at the moment.

Does anyone have any experience in plastic repair/welding, that would be willing to share some info? Is it better to actually weld with heat, as opposed to an epoxy type system? Any advantage to one or the other? Here are a few options that I'm considering, but have no experience in either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2461538768 http://plastex.home.att.net/ Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I modified a set of Koss plugs to help with the helmet problem, also. I had a crappy set of "sport-style" plugs that have a piece of plastic that goes up and over the ear to help keep the plugs in. I cut the ear piece off of them and epoxied them to the Koss plugs. It works really well, as I never have a problem with them coming out putting the helmet on or taking it off. The biggest trick of doing this is getting the positioning just right. I ended up putting the Koss plugs in my ears and then trimming the earpieces back a little at a time and test-fitting them before using the epoxy. Once I thought that I had them just right, I used superglue to hold it in place. All this was done with the plugs in the ear. I found this necessary since the plugs go up and back at an angle inside my ear as opposed to being a 90 degree angle to the side of my head. Just be very careful not to superglue them to your ears! :shock: (BTW- this works well for holding them in also......don't ask me how I know. :oops: ) I found the gel type glue works the best to prevent this. Once you have them 'tacked' in place, then carefully remove them from your ears and procede to epoxy them. I ended up with the cord in the wrong position, so I had to remove the tension stop from the plugs and then tape the cord to the side of the plugs, otherwise the helmet caught on the cord where it enters the plug. Other than that, everything went smoothly and they work great.

Pete, When you say "free", are you saying that this was a replacement for one that came from that bad batch....or was it from a road hazard warranty? I couldn't find the thread about the bad batch to find the #'s, but figured I'd ask since it hasn't been mentioned here. I've only got about 2500 miles or so on my 46 and it seems to be wearing pretty fast also. Of course, 1000 of that was at speeds over 100 for hours on end......the NeXXt attempt. :roll: 40psi F&R for the trip. Normally, I run the same pressures as Chris..36/38. Does anyone have a handy link to the thread about the batch that was wearing prematurely....or know the #s?

I'm sure the part #s are different, but from experience, I know that all of the tail cowls are interchangeable, and the only difference in the subframe, that I've found, is the bracket on the left side that holds the reg/rec. Other than that, they are identical. The fender/undertray is obviously a whole different story.

Not if you're de-linked. :grin: The proportioning valve is mounted on the top of the right passenger peg bracket.

I can't find an email address either. :???: Seems the only way they want to be contacted is via fax. http://www.magicalracing.co.jp/CardinfoE.htm

Yep, stock front is 17 teeth. I don't know if anyone makes an 18 tooth for the front.......I'm not sure if it would even fit if they did. I think your only option is changing the rear, but I don't know for sure.

Rick, Anything is possible if you're willing to put the time/work into it. Even though you are planning to run the pipes outside of the swingarm, you have to take into consideration the space that your foot occupies there. When the balls of your feet are on the pegs, your heel extends past the heel-plate not leaving much room for the pipe to snake between your foot and the passenger peg bracket. If you remove the pass. peg brackets you could probably snake the pipe up through that area with minimal cutting of the cowl....but it would be very tight (between the frame rail and the plastic).....of course, you'll have to relocate your rear master cylinder reservoir on the right side and the wiring harness and reg/rec on the left. It looks to me like there is enough room under the bodywork to run the pipes along the outside of the subframe rails, so I think what you've got in mind is do-able. The only real issue would be to keep from melting the plastic and heating the frame rail enough to cause damage elsewhere. You're on the right track with the ceramic coating and shielding, but you'll also have to cut the body back far enough from the pipe at the entry/exit to avoid melting it. With the pipes entering at the pass. peg bracket area, and exiting just on either side of the tail light, there will only be about 18" max. that will actually go under the body.........that is, if I understand you correctly. If you do remove the passenger peg brackets permanently, that means no passengers, ever. This gives you the liberty of modifying the sub-frame, making the possibilities endless as far as how you want to run the exhaust under there.......the only limitation being tire clearance and of course enough support for you, the exhaust and the tail. The straight pipe (even with a baffle) will be loud as hell, but if that doesn't bother you at all, then go for it. K-TOOL, is this the R1 exhaust that you saw?

Here are my favorite lines from the ad....... So there you have it, it's pretty clear..........it may or may not provide any performance increase at all. :roll: I'm looking forward to seeing Cal's results.

The only info I've got handy.......... http://www.ixxra.com/tuning.html

I like the custom aspect of that yellow bike and the detail/work that's been put into it, but I don't like the R1 tail on the 'bird. To me it just doesn't match the rest of the bodywork giving it an unbalanced look. It looks like it belongs on............a R1. K-TOOL, I saw that photo a few months ago and it almost ruined it for me. Fortunately, it's just a really bad photochop job. I decided to stick with the XX tail and have the pipes exit under the tail light so that I can retain the passenger seat. The one-piece tail in the photo will be swapped out for the stock tail w/ seat cowl that is on the 'bird in the foreground. I know, it's not too original (Ducati, anyone?) but I've always loved the exotic look of the Italian bikes and wanted to to try to add a little of that flavor to the 'bird........ Besides, I get really bored over the winter.

Damn, you're just full of great ideas, Rick. :wink: I like the way you think. :grin: I was going to keep this to myself to avoid the lambasting, but since you asked, I feel compelled to share what little knowledge I have gained on the subject so far....... Don't take this for gospel.....this is just what I've found on the internet from complete strangers and through some experimentation. I have a friend in the used parts biz, so I get to "try them before I buy them". I'm like a kid in a candy store when I go to his shop. :grin: .........without a dime in his pocket :sad: A VFR swingarm will fit, but not as a simple bolt-on........yet. True that the 800 swingarm is mounted to the engine, but the '90-'97 750's are mounted to the frame. The problem with fitting a SSS from the VFR is that all years have the shock mounted left of center. '90-'92 have a different shock linkage that isn't worth modification, so that leaves us with the '93-'97's, but still the problem of the offset. I'm working on the idea of a dogbone that might allow it to be a "bolt on" situation, but I haven't had the parts in hand long enough to get that far.....or much time to play as I'd hoped. There is still the issue of the top mount, which is just a hole in the frame, but it interferes with the left tank bolt. I suppose one bolt would hold the tank, but I don't like to take shortcuts like that. I'll figure something out. Also, since the rear caliper is a dual piston with a single inlet, you will need to de-link your brakes.........or at least partially de-link. (which I'm researching due to a limited budget.) I'll keep you posted on my findings as I progress. I'm hoping by spring that I'll have the swingarm and exhaust finished, but am not making any permanent modifications to the bike. If it's not done by spring, it's going back to stock until next winter. I'm not giving up riding for this.......and I want it to be reversable at any time. Alright then, the cat's outta the bag. Now, let the flames begin......... :shock:

I'm on this already.....have been for almost a year now. The issues to deal with are clearances.....everywhere. You can't run a pipe up the chain side because of the chain/guard.....there just simply isn't enough room, so it has to come from a 4-2-1 header. Then there's the issue of sneaking it between the tire and the battery tray compounded further if you want to put a Y-pipe in there to split to 2 small cans. You could use a small muffler with a single inlet and dual outlet .....assuming you want dual outlets (single would look like crap IMO- see 600rr or 1000rr). If you find one of these mufflers that fit inside a 3.5"x8"x12" space, certainly let me know. Then there's the suspension travel issue that affects all of this stuff. There isn't much room under there to fit the cans/muffler. Of course, if you plan on exiting out where the tail light is, then you will have to give up the passenger seat permanently, but that would provide more room. Then there's the heat-shielding issue..........Obviously you willl need to prevent the heat from melting everything including your ass. Ceramic coating on the pipes combined with carbon fiber shielding might do the trick. We'll see.............. Then there's the issue of all of the electronic stuff that is located in the tail. You need to find a new home for it where it will stay cool. Sounds like fun, huh? :shock: :grin:

Does your car look kinda like this? Not mine, but a good customer/friend. I've had the privlage to baby it a few laps around MAM, but nothing serious. If only I had the money......... This one is a rotary powered Formula Mazda. I'd love to see the XX powered one.

No, thank you. You just saved me from having to count my rotors again. :roll: :grin:

Sorry to hear your bike is making (not so) funny noises..... Have you ruled out the CCT?

The one you want is the one that goes into the center of the circle that faces forward. This is the vacuum operated diaphram that opens the fuel flow. It will be the connection that is the farthest forward (toward the front of the bike) on the switch. There is another nipple-looking thing that is at the very bottom of the housing that is designed trick you into taking it to the dealer when you hook your vacuum line to it. :wink: Again this is at the lowest point on the housing. You can see it from 360degrees whereas the one you want won't be visible from the back of the bike. Nothing attaches to this "nipple" at the bottom........only the one on the front. I don't know how to describe it any better without a picture.

The 90 degree nipple...... that goes into the center of the diaphram (the circular part that faces forward). It will be the furthest forward "outlet" on the "switch". Hope this makes sense.

Here ya go, Don. :grin: The old pad is a rear and the new one is a front. You can see the little notch in the right tab on the rear. Jim, Sorry to hear about your local stealer. They probably didn't even see if the XX shares the same pads as other bikes (it does).......prolly had a set of pads sitting there this whole time. :evil: Aren't the prices the same (front or rear) from Ron Ayers?