K-TOOL

Takin the bike in for the fork work tom.. Seein as I dont have a manual I just want to confirm a few things. 1) is the stock fork oil 10wt. ? 2) how much oil per fork? 3)What is the torque for the steering head bearing? Thanks

Is any one brand better than another? OEM or aftermarket? I've seen some fork seals that say guaranteed not to ever leak, but I doubt that. Also has anybody switched to a heavier fork oil? If so thoughts and opinoins. Thanks fo the help.

I have the Hawke oiler on mine. It works great. No build up like when using chain wax. The chain stays gunk free. I use MOBIL 1 gear oil. The hawke oiler is an on demand system not a constant feed. I control when and how much oil is released w/ the push of a button. I think the guys name is John. Here is the linkhttp://www.hawkeoiler.com/. When my bike was in the shop they some how managed to booger it up and fry the motor. Not sure how but they did. I called John, sent the unit in and within a couple of weeks he sent me a new unit free of charge. A stand up guy in my opinion. Runs the bizz out of his garage. At $150 its a good deal to.

I used a chrome spacer that just happened to be 6mm. No reason for the chrome, just happened to be the right size and thought one would be better than 3 or four. The ID is 3/8" SAE. The chain was awfully close to the center stand after the install. When the bike is on the side stand the chain very nearly rests on the centerstand. It was way to close for me. I just took the damn thing off. Demon- That adjustable link is SCHWEET. More pics. Blaine- Now everybody meets at HOOTERS right down the street. C-ya there.

Did the whole 6mm spacer to the rear shock the other day. :shock: Man what a difference. I agree w/ some of the previous posts, it kinda feels like the bike shed 40 pounds. Turn in is really easy. Oh yea, backin it in seems to happen without effort. Almost scary but not quite. Any more than 6mm would definitely be to much. The back seems to be a little more sensitive to mid corner throttle inputs. Also it got rid of my 45-50mph deceleration headshake. Great upgrade! All praise goes to the all knowing forum. Thanks a bunch

I love mine. Once adjusted properly it works great. I used a small screw to secure it to the bottom of the switch box.

Great info guys. It doesnt sound to tough. Hopefully get it done in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for the great info.

Excuse my ignorance :headscratch: , but I am not quite sure what kind of spacers you guys are talking about. Are these just regular washers? I havent really gotten in there and looked but where are they installed. Is this an easy procedure. A buddy w/ a bird and I both want to try this mod. Thanks for the help

DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! SON OF A BIATCH! Washed the bike tonight for the first time since the trip. I noticed two small cracks in the fairing. FUCK! I aint one of those anal guys whos always cleanin my bike or worried my bling factor but DAMN! This just plain SUXX! Be careful using that harness. I think the position of the anchor points has a lot to do w/ it. Mine were forward and down. Consider yourself warned!

Just long enough to cover the rubber of the grips, somewhere around 4 or so inches. When you get the straps you will be able to see how long to cut the PVC pieces. It worked well. When I got to N.C. the throttle was a little tight but I have a throttle lock that must have had a little preesure put on it. A little adjustment and it was fine. On the return trip I noticed no such tightness. I wrapped a rag on each strap where they were rubbing. No paint was removed or scuffing. I also used a u shaped wheel chock to give the front tire a good place to anchor against. Definitely a must to keep all in order. It was around 50 bucks at the local trailer store.

Just got back from my trip. The bar harness works fairly well. It put more stress on the body work than I liked but nothing broke during transport. You definitely want to use the PVC pipe on the grips. I think I used thin walled 1 1/4" ID.

Schweet!!!! Thats exactly what I need. I'm gonna give them a call tom.. Thanks fo the help. I can always count on you guys. :grin:

For the first time ever the bike will be on a trailer. Headed up to North Carolina and Tennessee. Got a free ride on a trailer so I thought I'd save my tires. Where is the best place to strap the front of the Bird down? The railings on the trailer are pretty low, possibly causing the straps to rub on the bike. Is it best to use the clip on's or the forks? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance

SWMOTOTIRES.COM is the only way to go. Better and cheaper than MAWONLINE. I just got a new avon rear. It was on the door step two days after I ordered it. They emailed the confirmation about two hours after I ordered it. Also the tire was packaged nicely to. It was supported by two tire size pieces of sturdy cardboard. Unlike MAW, who tapes it up all tight. When it arrives its all warped and shit.

Good question, I would like to know the same.

You guys rock :worship: ! I'm gonna give it a go in the next week or two. I'll be sure to update. Thanks again.

all! I looked real quick the other day. Thought maybe you guys could point me in the right direction so I can spend a little less time wrenchin and more time ridin.

I've already got the EBC HH's. Now I just need a little help on where to start. Does anybody have quick how to instructions? I just need to know which bolts to remove. Does the whole caliper come off or just swivel up? I am asking because I currently dont have computer to which I can(not) save the manual, which BTW is really not a manual. Thanks for the help ahead of time.

Thanks for the input guys. I really appreciate the input. I dont know jack shit when it comes to knowing what to look for from a dyno and a good mech. My goal is not to find out MAX HP, but to diagnose any problems before they have an ill effect on the motor. I would like to find out as soon as possible to avoid running the bike under less than ideal circumstances. The guy said it would take about 10 runs to have an accurate guage as to how things are going. I will probably wait till 1500 or so.

Most of you know the story w/ my bike so I'll forego the whole story. My question is how soon is to soon. As of now I have 800 miles on the new motor. I changed the oil at 450 miles. It look good, there was not any noticeable metal in the oil or filter. I plan on changing it again at 1,000 miles. Then I will really filter the oil and check the filter. I talked to a guy at a local private shop that was recomended to me by a friend that has some experience w/ them. He said that the bike was safe to dyno after about 1,000 miles and the oil was completely free of metal. I told them the story and they said that they would throw the bike on the DYNO and measure all of the gases and the temps of each cylinder. My main concern, and the reason I want to do the DYNO, is that I feel that the dealership merely replaced the affected parts and did not actually correct the problem. Nothing that they replaced actually caused the problem. Anyways, my question is how soon is to soon to DYNO a "new" motor?

Not soon enough! I think I'm gonna need training wheels. They already received most of the parts. At the end of last week they said that they should be getting the case in either Mon or Tues and then they had to cross reference that w/ a crank. Then when the crank arrives it will be ready to reassemble. Like I said, not soon enough.

Turns out that they are doing an entire rebuild on my engine. I dont have a complete list but heres a list of new parts that I know of, case, pistons, valves, ports?, springs, bearings, crank, all new seals and a bunch of other things I cant remember. I asked why they didnt just drop a whole new motor in and Honda said that they dont have complete motors just sittin around. My question is this, since basically this is going to be a new motor, should I reinstall the stock exhaust until the engine is properly broken in? I have the Erion slip ons on there now and was wondering if they would take away to much of the backpressure thereby not allowing the seals to seat. Thoughts and opinions.........? Thanks

AAAAHHHHH!!!! The Florida contingent grows! Get the Avon 45, 46's.......you wont be disappointed. Great wet and dry grip( all the way to the edges). I'm on my first set but look to be doin great on mileage.

Blaine, I assure you that Seminole P.S. has seen the very last dollar I'll give them. A bunch of pecker heads. They have gotten a few new decent salesmen, but the service dept sucks. I would never buy a bike from a bunch of asses that dont ride themselves.

Its Performance Honda off of W. Hwy 50. I swore Seminole Power sports a while ago. They screwed up one to many times. The last time they left bolts out of the rotor after a tire change. I'm fixin to call Honda service Dept right now and discuss some options. Speed limit what the hell is that? Are those the little signs before the corners to let you know that you can go at least triple the number shown? :twisted: