Zero Knievel
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Posts posted by Zero Knievel
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3 minutes ago, SwampNut said:
LOL!
How else do you explain a 30-year-old booster doing a better job than the latest designs?
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I could use extra eyes on this…
This is the best image I could get of the tag on the differential.
Based on the following site, this is the essential information….
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-7-5-8-8-inch-axle-tag-door-codes/
7.5” ring gear
The “L” in the “L73” indicates a limited slip which requires adding a friction modifier when refilling. -
Finally ordered the replacement antenna. So far, every replacement booster works worse than the 30+ year old one we’re currently using. I attribute this to crappy build quality compared to 30 years ago.
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On 7/9/2023 at 3:17 PM, blackhawkxx said:
You would get more looks at stuff like this in the garage section….
Sorry about that. I keep thinking the garage is for bike-related issues.13 hours ago, superhawk996 said:Jeezus. Change it or STFU.
I shall. Keep in mind this thread started on Sunday. It’s now Tuesday morning. I’ve not even been to town yet, and the truck gets used maybe once every couple of weeks…to take the trash to the collection center. -
10 hours ago, Furbird said:
FTFY 🤣
Nice.I take a large.
You do realize the issue in question would likely fail long past the expiration of the warranty, right?
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1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said:
Do you really believe that gears meshing together for 25 years, 216,000 miles wouldn't benefit from a fluid change? Why even ask about it if you wasn't going to do it to begin with?
I may be dating myself, but some systems do go without maintenance under NORMAL use. You don’t replace steering fluid or change the lube in CV joints just because of age or mileage. I normally expect that items needing maintenance have indicators like drain/fill ports or grease fittings. Otherwise, you don’t fuck with it.The truck was a daily driver for 95%+ of its life. It’s not having issues at present. The idea of spending some coin to take care of it comes from realizing it’s not worth the $$$ to get a new(er) truck versus doing some needed TLC. Considering the Haynes manual says to replace the fluid every 60K, I’m surprised there isn’t a drain port on the differential.
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6 hours ago, Furbird said:
Nissan CVT's have "lifetime oil" and we see how well that bullshit worked out.
That has more to do with build quality. The Prius says little about coolant and transmission fluid changes. Owners say to do the transmission every 50K and coolant every 100K as a preventative measure.I figure if they intend routine fluid changes, there would be a drain plug and fill plug…like the transmission case. I’m not having any performance issues, but the age of the truck is what made me question.
The general rule I’ve been told is to not open things up unless absolutely necessary. So, no drain hole tells me to not fuck with it.
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The truck has 216,000 miles and is a 1998 model. Normally, I do nothing about the rear differential unless something seems amiss as it isn’t listed as a “regular service” component.
Still, should I take it in and have a “drain and fill” done by a mechanic given the age and mileage or does it not matter. There is a fill port, but they’d need a way to suction out the old stuff or open up the differential to drain the old stuff out. I did it myself on my old S-10, and that was a pain.
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Oh it makes sense. Mom ordered two signal boosters to try. If they don’t do the job, I’ll order that one.
I took a closer look at the mast aerial we have. I’m thick sometimes. It’s a square tube mounted in the ground with a round pipe inserted…which can rotate. I drilled a hole in it to use a nail to prevent it from rotating from the wind. Rather than climb up, dad likely assembled the antenna on the ground, mounted it to the pole, then raised it up and lowered it into the square tube.
I’m hoping I don’t need to replace the antenna wire. The wire runs underground through PVC piping. Where it comes up at the mast, dad didn’t use an L joint to connect the horizontal and vertical sections…so for 30 years who knows what has been getting into the horizontal section underground. Unfortunately, I don’t think coax is flexible enough to manage tight 90 degree bends from a distance, so new wire would likely mean cutting the old conduit and laying new conduit with the new wire. All I can do is if the antenna gets replaced, see how well it works with the existing coax and replace if needed.
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Thoughts on this one? I’m hoping it would work if mounted in the attic, and since it’s not unidirectional, I’d not need to worry about constantly reaiming it.
It’s also possible the issue is a worn coax cable, but the cable run from the antenna to the house is underground. If I check it, I might as well replace it.
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1 minute ago, blackhawkxx said:
Great idea!
I'd only consider it because of the AGE of the existing one...but from what I can tell, they haven't radically changed the design of outdoor aerials. Still, I don't have the equipment to get up to it and change it out. Last time we needed a wire tightened, my neighbor used his pickup and balanced a ladder in the bed. No way I'm trying that. I have enough issue keeping balance when I'm on solid ground.
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Gah! Mom still isn't happy. I'm telling her to just hire someone to come out and fix the issue. Maybe we need a new antenna. Maybe the tree growth has gotten to the point where the antenna needs to be even higher or relocated on the property. I'm not doing it.
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4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
If only we had someone here that knew a fuckall about radio signals he mighta mentioned checking the coax connections as well.
I wouldn’t expect INTERNAL wiring to become loose from just sitting there. -
Well, booster arrived…didn’t work. Only got one channel band (all the channel 39 variants).
I noticed the coax connections were loose (tension type, not screw on). Used channel locks to make them tight. No improvement.
Put old 30-year-old booster back on. All the channels are back…even the ones mom was complaining about. 🤯
I’m calling it a win and quitting while I’m ahead.
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11 hours ago, SwampNut said:
I'm speechless.
Why? Because I don’t want to spend a dime more than is necessary for something I don’t need or want? -
6 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Think about that.
When you’re far enough away, an antenna can only do so much. It’s a fairly large aerial, and if I have to replace it, I have to hire someone to install it. I’d rather buy a >$40 booster and call it a day if it works. I don’t even watch fucking TV, but mom won’t shut up about it. -
51 minutes ago, SwampNut said:
Garbage in, garbage out. It all starts with maximizing the antenna FIRST, then boost. I've told my neighbors this, they ignored me, went the easy/cheap way, and then went ahead and got the correct antenna which actually worked. Just boosting a shit antenna did not. We are just over a mountain and probably 60 miles from the transmitters.
The outdoor antenna we have should be adequate. The booster was always needed, and it’s simpler to upgrade the booster with a newer one and THEN replace the antenna if it still doesn’t work. We were fine until some channels went to a new antenna which transmits in the higher UHF band. Other channels don’t pose an issue. -
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I want just the booster, not an antenna or antenna with booster.
We can’t get certain channels because they are in a higher UHF band (although still identified in the VHF channel scheme). Our existing booster (from Radio Shack) doesn’t work in that range which is why we do well with some but not other DTV channels.
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So, it comes down to the age old question, “Were you fucking with it?” 😉
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1 hour ago, DBLXX said:
Fouled? With 2 miles on it? It's a single so there is 1 plug and I'll check it.
My brush mower fouled the plug after a bad start. I didn't think that was possible, but change the spark plug and all is good.
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Manual chokes are tricky sometimes. If the plugs are accessible, pull them and see if they fouled.
Also, assuming it's electric start, parallel attach a second 12v battery to supply more than enough CCAs. See if that fixes it. Small bike often means small battery, and maybe your battery isn't putting out enough to both crank and properly spark. If it floods the motor, then you really struggle to get it to start.
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I have the replacements still in their bags. There are spots of rust on those hangers. The replacements are spotless.
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From what I can tell, some new bolts were used for the springs. I’m guessing some either sheared or had to be cut off. The mounts were otherwise okay.
Rear differential question.
in Handyman
Posted
Define "freely." I don't think I can freely spin the rear wheels when both are off the ground, but I think that's more to do with all the drive components moving along with the wheel as compared to just having to spin the wheel on a hub.