Zero Knievel
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Posts posted by Zero Knievel
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Normally, I get 35-40. Most of my miles are when the bird's loaded with luggage anyhow.
Just double-checked my records.
Based on the last three trips (Spring Rally in NC, cross-country trip and Rally in WV), the bird gets 34-41 MPG with exceptions as low as 30 and as high as 45 MPG.
Most of what eats your gas is riding style and weight (a lighter bike needs less to push it).
Mine is FI for what it's worth.
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Better yet, why not just replace the plastic nut with a metal one?
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I have the Wingrack 2 system.
The top case carrier bolts on with 2 L-shaped pieces that bolt into the side plates. It's not needed.
Your mounting kit should make you mount to the exhaust system supports and the rear handle behind the seat.
I will advise you to replace all cap bolts that don't come with a locking nut with longer ones 1/2" longer that you can add a locking nut to (the four under the seat and 2-4 more on the wingrack). I had several bolts vibrate loose after 100 miles in spite of how much I tightened them. You may have to shop around for the bolts since they may not be available in your average hardware store.
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I think you're on to something with the K&N, but maybe for the wrong reason.
When was the LAST TIME you cleaned it and reoiled it (using the K&N recharge kit)?
I say that because if your filter gets plugged up (happens faster in rain from the damp air), you get an airflow restriction and the bike stalls until the filter dries out enough to let enough air for combustion flow through again.
POWERWASHING WILL NOT SIMULATE THIS. You might get it to repeat itself on a rainy day if it idles/runs in the driveway.
I suspect your K&N is overdue for a recharge treatment (kit is about $35 at most auto parts stores that sell K&N). Puttin in the clean, new Honda filter should confirm this.
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I presume everyone checks for slack with the gearbox in neutral, right?
I can't see how you keep the top of the links from touching the underside chain guard on the swingarm. It'd have to be adjusted pretty tight to do that.
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Indeed it does say to check when on the side stand.
In any case. I adjusted yesterday at 1.5". On the side stand, it's just over 1".
While the manual warns of the slack being over 2" because it will cause damage, how do you know when a chain is too loose? Any eyeball way to seeing it needs tightening rather than whipping out a ruler every morning?
What happens or what harm would come from it being a bit too loose (over 1.5") compared to being too tight?
Likewise, when on the centerstand, the chain can be made to touch the underside of the swingarm, but my guess (so far) is that so long as the links don't touch beyond the plastic/rubber pad (chainguide?) on the underside of the swingarm, it's not too loose. When properly adjusted, (and on the centerstand) the chain links can be pushed up to touch this pad easily, almost to the end of it.
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Well, I'm sick of it.
To see if a chain needs to be tightened, you follow the instructions in your manual.
For me, it's "put the bike on the centerstand and see if the freeplay in the chain within X to Y."
I know that sounds simple, but it's really a guessing game at times. I had to mark a wrench with tape and ink marks so I can eyeball it on the road when I'm on trips.
Don't they make an easy tool that lets you measure this easily or does everyone have to improvise a way to check this stuff?
It might be a little issue, but the work to make a minor chain adjustment is a real pain if I'm reading stuff wrong.
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For goodness sake. The whole can treats up to 20 gallons of gas. Just pour it in and let it work its magic.
You can use it straight when cleaning parts (yes, they sell a large can you can submerge parts in to soak), but for cleaning fuel systems, just mix it with the gas.
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They also said if we pass along the info on the chain we are using, they'll take up the matter with their supplier to see what can be worked out as they feel that even their hardened aluminum sprockets should not have worn like this.
Good stuff. That speaks very well of their company.
If they were at all familiar with the XX they would not be surprised by the condition of that sprocket.
Well, an update.
1. Extremebikecustoms never sent any replacements, even though they said they would. If they use the supplier to "drop ship" everything, I can understand that, but they didn't seem to do anything but pass stuff along to the manufacturer (DrivenUSA).
2. After over a month passes with no reply, I finally e-mailed Extremebikecustoms. They said they e-mailed me the report they got from Driven. I asked them to resend it. About a week or so later, I get it with a suggestion that maybe DrivenUSA will sell me a replacement set at a discount. Driven finds no flaw in their part. They suspect poor chain adjustment or misalignment of the rear wheel is to blame. They do state that they do not know what type of bike the sprockets were used on or type of chain used.
3. Since Extremebikecustoms told me to deal with DrivenUSA if I had any further questions, I just e-mailed them directly. I told them the bike, the chain used, and that the damage was mostly from the rear being aluminum when I wanted steel (seller's error). I also said that I was disappointed that the problem was being passed off to them (it was the seller's misrepresentation on the web page that caused all this). I also said that I considered the whole matter a loss at this point but would appreciate whatever they could do.
4. DrivenUSA replies and says that rather than have a dissatisfied customer, they'll send me replacement sprockets in steel (not gotten them as of this post, but that was a few days ago that they were mailed). :icon_clap:
On one side, I'm happy that DrivenUSA stepped up to the plate and took action. On the other side, while the replacements are freebies, I'm not sure if I want to justify buying another $130+ DID chain and HOPE that these gears will hold up as well as other steel gears should hold up.
Likewise, I came across the pro chain oiler group buy thread. I'm seriously thinking about putting one on. On longer trips, it will pay for itself in not having to worry about chain oiling every gas stop.
Anyone know of a way to test the quality of a sprocket BEFORE putting them on?
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Also, Berryman's B-12 Chemtool is the exact same stuff, but cheaper. You can find it in Wal-Mart.
I love this stuff. Carbs or FI, if you run less than premium (for long trips, you burn the gas too fast to worry about lower octane) or just worry about gunk the you get in your tank from time to time, this stuff cleans things out. I normally (on long trips) take a can or two and put 1/3 of it in every few tanks.
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I have it too. It goes away almost right away....definitely once the motor warms up a tad.
It's really just a lack of lube in all places. Once the fluids get going good, I never hear it again.
I'm running AMSOIL, which is as good as oil tends to get.
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+1 on not going aluminum.
I ordered what I thought was steel front and rear.
The rear was aluminum.
The gear was unfit for use after 9,300 miles (took a cross-country trip). It also damaged the front sprocket which was steel.
I sent them back. Pointed out the error on the sales page to the company that sold them to me (extremebikecustoms), and they passed it off the the manufacturer (drivenUSA).
The manufacturer said they didn't see any defect in the product (well, duh). I pointed out to them that the failure was likely because the retailer sold me the wrong part and that I was disappointed that they were expecting the manufacturer to pick up the tab.
They say they'll send me replacement steel front and rear sprockets for free rather than have a dissatisfied customer. Haven't got them yet. I'm glad they did something, but it really wasn't their job since it was the retailer who messed up.
I don't know if I'll use the freebies or not. I'm not sure I want to gamble another $130+ chain on sprockets that are unproven to me.
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If the GB still is looking for people, I think I definitely want one (I've gotten good at using a can and rag, but on longer trips, the pro oiler would pay for itself in no time).
Be sure to PM/e-mail me with details when you're ready to place the order.
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I read through this thread and agree that Alum sprockets pretty much suck. I find one thing odd though: why did the front wear the way it did? I think your chain was/is misaligned. All the lube in the world, btw, won't save a misaligned chain. Did you take a close look at your chain?
My chain "looks" okay to me. I didn't adjust it too often, but frankly, when I did check it, it was within the specs its supposed to be in. If anything I know about making it too tight, and I've been told while a good chain is in good condition, it hardly needs adjustment until it starts to wear out and begins stretching again.
To my knowledge, the rear tire was aligned properly. With the way the rear brake caliper mounts on the swingarm, I don't think you could have much misalignment without noticing it.
I think the front was damaged by the wear on the rear and increased friction. I didn't think to lube/clean at every other gas stop. Now that I know this can't be avoided, it's something I'll have to always do on longer trips.
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Interesting post. How much $$$ are you really likely to save by buying reliable aftermarket sprockets vs. Honda genuine OEM replacements? I'm talking about aftermarkets that hold up as well as the OEM parts from Honda.
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That, and I find the BEST way to clean a gunked bike is to leave it outside overnight (if you get heavy dew in the morning). A night of soaking in the wet air does an incredible job of softening up the bug guts, and a cleaning goes a lot faster and easier.
It shouldn't hurt the bike if you leave it out just for the cleaning.
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Well, I'll give extremebikecustoms some credit (the people who sold me the sprockets).
I sent a nice e-mail with links to the pictures explaining (actually, quoting) their website that makes absolutely no mention that the sprockets are aluminum, that they indicate the sprockets are supposed to be steel, and that the still have not corrected this information on their sales page. Also a bit about thier error costing my company over $250 in hardware (spockets and chain) because we wanted steel components, not aluminum, which is why we bought from them.
They've replied saying if we send back the rear sprocket, they'll send a steel replacement. They also said if we pass along the info on the chain we are using, they'll take up the matter with their supplier to see what can be worked out as they feel that even their hardened aluminum sprockets should not have worn like this.
I'm going to also return the front sprocket. Maybe they'll pitch in a replacement one as well.
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Yep. I put the old sprokets back on (I always save old parts if they look servicable...just in case something like this happens.Did I understand correctly that you put that chain back on the bike with new sprockets? If so you will soon be unhappy again
It's still worth a try, IMO.
Right now he's unsure if the chain is any good, so why not re-install some good, used sprockets (at no cost, I might add) to see how long that lasts? I have done the same, and would again.
Since any harm done to the chan has already happened, I can't make it worse by putting the old sprockets back on. I could make it worse by leaving the existing ones on or waste money buying new ones and mating them to a worn chain.
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That's typical for an aluminum rear on this bike. Not so typical for the front, but I've only run OEM fronts, they've always looked way better when they came off with the chain, usually somewhere around 20k.
It's possible the rear wearing that way trashed the chain, which in turn trashed the front sprocket.
How often were you lubing it?
Well, that may be a sin on my part. :icon_doh:
Asking others, I've been told o-ring and x-ring chains don't need "lube" because the individual links are sealed roller bearings which negates most all of the friction that "lube" protects against. What they really need is to be clean. Most guys just run a kerosine/diesel soaked rag over the chain and it lasts a long time.
So, that's what I do. Clean with kerosine and apply chain wax (mostly to protect against the elements between cleanings.
Of course....
On the trip, my average day easily ran between 500-900 miles. On a couple of occasions, I didn't bother to stop and clean/rewax the chain because I just stopped long enough to get some shut eye and then get back on the road. My average day was 14-16 hours in the saddle. The chain "looked" in good condition, but I suspected not cleaning it religiously might pose a problem, but I can't be sure that's the real problem. I suspect I should have made the time to stop at least every 500 miles and clean/lube (or at least clean) the chain. I'm sure that might have helped.
As someone just said, aluminum (even hardened) for this bike is a no no.
What chafes me is that the seller sells hardened aluminum for THIS BIKE and did not disclose that they were aluminum. When I e-mailed him later, he said that steel was available, but nowhere on the order site do you get the choice. I would have bought steel had I known the rear was not steel. So, I basically roasted an expensive chain because the seller did not disclose that the rear was aluminum. They sell aluminum rears because they can be colored to suit those who want color rear sprokets (posers who don't intend to do anything but tool down the road).
It's water under the bridge. My chain (hopefully) will last another 10,000 on the OEM sprockets I just put back on the bike. If I get that much, I'll consider myself very lucky since other 'bird owners say 20K on any chain/sprocket combo is about all they get (although they ride more aggressively than I do). Heck, at this point, I'd be happy to get at least another 5,000 out of the chain (it's not stretching out, but that usually happens when it takes a dive).
I'm not sure I want to go with the same supplier next time. If steel sprockets would have avoided this problem, I might consider it, but OEM is not really "better" and it is certainly overpriced. I'm just wondering who are the recommended sprocket suppliers for durable aftermarket sprockets vs. buying OEM.
BTW, these came from Driven USA, sold by extremebikecustoms.
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Okay, BOTH sprockets were toast when I checked them, so the old OEM sprockets are back on the bike. Here are pics of what the "new" ones look like with less than 10,000 miles on them after my cross-country trip.
The front is supposed to be case hardened steel. The rear is supposed to be hardened aluminum.
My dad's in a fuss saying the curls on the rear shows that the metal was not tempered properly. He's not impressed with the front sprocket either.
I'm not only curious if this wear is "normal" for the curcumstances (was doing a cross-country trip with an average of 14-16 hours on the bike per day plus hard luggage on the bike), but since I'm not really impressed with these sprockets, where would you get aftermarket replacements that you know are durable? I don't go with OEM becauase they are really overpriced, but I'd rather pay an extra $20 for quality than save money just to toast a perfectly good $130 chain on "bargain" sprockets.
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I'm glad the jumbo worked for you.
I got the first one you listed. I was a bit put off to find that it didn't work on removing 530 chains (that wasn't on the listing for the tool). However, a disc grinder sheared down two pins on the stock chain and I got the chain off. Normally, on replacement chains, I just use a power drill to shear off the heads of the master link, so it's all good.
Once I figured out how to use it, putting on a new master link was pure heaven compared to the struggles I use d to have in the past with C-clamps, steel blocks, and rivioting tools.
I opted against the jumbo tool because I wanted something lighter and more portable....just in case on a long trip where I wanted to pack it in with my tool bag.
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Glad to hear the responses here.
I use the chain wax from maxima. Some love it. Some hate it.
I've NEVER had a cleaning problem. Kerosine works best, but WD-40 and a rag will get all the old stuff off before applying new chain wax.
I know some people who just ride with WD-40 and put a fresh coating on every now and then. Supposedly, if you run a good chain, the rollers don't need a lot of lube and the links are sealed so all you care about is keeping the chain clean more than anything else (dirty chain wears faster).
I'm doing a cross-country trip. Chain wax before I start, clean and re-wax at the end of the day. Have some WD-40 just in case I need a quick cleaning from something I rode through.
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1. Cleaning (chain)....Kerosine and an old rag (often old socks, underwear, t-shirts, etc.) I store the one I'm using in an old covered cooking pan (to keep O2 out in case it ignites when stored).
2. Lubing (chain)....a paper towel.
3. Cleaning (most everything else)....paper towels.
If you're concerned about the environment (concerned about the landfill mass), just store your dirty stuff and use it as firelighters.
The most considerate way to wash your shop towels if you plan to reuse them is just get a big pail and fill it with degreasing agent and water. Let the rags soak overnight. Agitate the water with a stick. Drain, and refill with soap and water. Just hand wash them. If they are used for cleaning up while doing gunky work, you don't need them 100% clean. Use a "new" shop rag for the final wipe up on a job but use the old, pre-soiled rags for keeping the mess contained.
I'm against taking stuff to a local laundromat because if you gunk up their machine, you're really repsonsible for fixing it and the people who are harmed after the fact. In truth, you can shop around for a used washing machine and for $100-200 get a unit you can abuse and do no harm. After all, at what those laundromats charge per wash, the used unit would pay for itself in no time at all.
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After some asking around here and elsewhere, the hose isn't some weird mod I've not heard of.
My best guess is that it went to the drain spout on the battery carrier (perhaps someone can confirm there's a hose on that nub).
I reattached it, cut it shorter so there was less to flop around, and zip-tied it to the brake lines so it wouldn't flop around with bouncing.
Problem solved. Thanks.
Chain Oilers
in The Garage
Posted
Except that it's called a "loobman"
I've seen the site that sells it (http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/). I think I know someone who has something like that. The biggest problem I see with putting one on a Bird is finding a place to mount it where it doesn't look fugly.
Otherwise, yeah, it would make the lubing of a chain easier. You just have to pop up on the centerstand to do the deed. Might not lube as consistently as one that sprays like clockwork, but lubing (if done everytime you gas up) doesn't have to be done like clockwork, just regularly.
Do you have pics of where you mounted the bottle on your Blackbird?