Zero Knievel

Silicone tape (what Rescue Tape essentially is with some improvements) is nothing new. If you want to test the concept at a bargain price, HSN has Tommy Tape (silicone tape)...7 rolls for $20...just over $25 with shipping. Can't beat that price. If you like how it works and want to plunk down $10-12 a roll for Rescue Tape afterward, fine. http://home-solutions.hsn.com/tommy-tape-m...aspx?ccm=HW0060

She gets you to the ARCTIC OCEAN and back and you do this to her now?

The main cause of leaky seals is dirt in the oil or on the fork rubbing against the rubber seal, acting like sandpaper and causing it to leak. If you don't get the goop out at the bottom of the fork, it will just hasten the demise of the seals. Ah, I see. Re-reading I see part of the process is to clean out the entire fork and all parts, so all the "goop" will be removed.

WOOT! A bit pricey, but went with this. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=99 That I can select switched or constant power on any circuit and it all being in a compact package makes the price worth it. Anything I rig up myself won't be as clean, simple or compact.

Initially, I figures a terminal block is all I need. Put a 30A fuse on the hot wire in and set up things as you like. It'd be more organized and protected than how I'm doing things now, BUT there is a value in being able to fuse individual circuits (30A on the hot wire feeding the block and maybe 5A and 10A on individual circuits). Googling "terminal block" gets one result. Googling "junction box" gets another. You get a third option with "fuse block." I was thinking of how my ProOiler uses a protected PVC box to hold the circuit board and connectors. I figured that was a nice way to set up wiring under the seat...in it's own protected box rather than wherever I can zip tie it down.

There is no "drain plug" with the exception of pulling the cartridge. When you remove the cartidge, you can get all the oil out, as well as all the goop that builds up in there over time. Adding the specified amount of oil does not guarantee that you'll get the proper air gap. The service manual specifies an amount of oil to add, but then specifies that you check the air gap anyways. As long as you add enough to keep the cartridges from sucking air, you're going to have to top it off anyways after pumping the cartridges to distribute the oil. Not measuring when filling saves a step, and requires less tools. If you end up with an air gap that's over the specified amount after measuring the oil, you still have to remove the excess oil. Does leaving the "goop" in there lead to problems down the road?

http://www.electotronics.com/bluesea5025fu...wtermblade.aspx Nice, but at 4.9" Height x 3.4" Width x 1.5" Depth, I need to see if I can fit it on the bike. The BX case is only 4.4 x 2.4 x 1.2. Although it has no fuses.

Splashproof Junction Boxes BX Series • Provides for secure, protected below-deck wiring connections, IP rating 54 • rugged cast aluminum box with white enamel finish • Easy wiring access through multiple grommeted cable entries • Supplied with high quality connector strips - secure wires w/compression fittings – no terminals required (See CS-1and CS-2, for full description – see matrix below for number/gauge of terminals) http://www.newmarpower.com/Thru-Dex_Waterp...roof_Boxes.html

I stumbled across this, perhaps something like this but smaller? http://www.marine-electronics-unlimited.co...oduct_id=NE1086

I'm going to redo my wiring. I'd like to use a terminal block. I can find them in Lowes, but they don't come in any kind of container I can enclose around them to keep water off the terminals. No "weatherproofing" at all. Couldn't find anything to improvise with. Anyone know of a supplier of terminal blocks in weather resistant boxes?

QUESTIONS: 1. What is bad about draining oil out bottom of fork as provided by engineers? 2. Since you have to pump the fork to get the air out anyhow, why not drain thoroughly then add the specified amount of oil and pump. Should that not get the desired result compared to overfilling?

Since I'm thinking about putting better springs in the front fork, I think it would be wise to replace stuff that comes due sooner or later while it's opened up. Looking at the schematic, I can't find any "fork seals" as I had on the old Kawasaki. Which part am I looking (if any) to replace?

Well, I found out it's the connection. As soon as I pulled the lowers off, one of the wires to the voltmeter fell free. Once reconnected, the voltmeter kept pace with a multimeter directly on the battery; didn't see an error factor of more than 0.1 volts.

Thanks. I figured this might be what I wind up doing. Ultra fine grit...maybe some plastic-made Bondo to fill in the deep gouges, touch up, buff, clear coat if needed. I'll know it's still there, but it won't be so noticeable as it is now. Since I'm thinking of new spring for the front fork (perhaps should have the whole fork serviced while it's open) and replacing the brake lines with better ones, spending $500 on a paint job that won't last 50 miles before it gets scratched might not be worth it.

I'm certain the scratches are more than "skin deep." Since the plastic is pretty much molded in the color of choice, I wonder if a good cleaning and some elbow grease will diminish the noticability of the scratches enough for it to be something I can live with. I figure something that will buff out the scratches (or fill them in) while blending in the color could work. Do they make a plastic repairing agent that comes in black?

Okay, I have the option to paint my plastics for $500. However, looking at the bike, I get the following sobering thoughts. 1. The existing scratches are unpleasant to look at, but nothing is "broken." I'd like them to be gone, but maybe I could live with it. 2. No matter how cheap a paint job is....road junk alone will put new scratches in the finish. 3. The bike is already 10 years old. 4. The bike now has over 65K on the odometer. 5. I have little to no interest in selling the XX....like normal, I will likely ride it until repair/maintenance outpaces the value of the bike or I have a real bad get off and it's totaled (God forbid). So, if I could diminish the scratches and polish it out/touch up the stuff so it isn't as noticeable, I think I could live with that. After all, knowing the bike already has its scars, I won't be as neurotic about getting dings and scratches. What products/methods work well towards this goal?

Dang. At that lower price for bone stock, it is very tempting.

Anyone know about Goodridge lines? Jaws has those as well as the HEL kit, but at the same price, I don't see a reason to choose them over HEL. http://www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk/bird2.htm

True, and the stuff will get mucked up again in time just from road debris, right?

That's what I thought. Thanks. For me, just $200 is a lot of money, but I also know it's a matter of my perspective. Some people wouldn't blink at a $2,000 paint job.

To fix the damage to my bike, I'm looking at $500 for a basic paint job done by someone I know does EXCEPTIONAL work. He's a friend, so he will do it at a significant discount. He will do everything but the tank for that price. I doubt I could replace only the damaged panels for less than $500. For all the talk of fixing plastic myself and painting it myself, I know (from experience) that if you don't have the right tools, even if you have the right paint the end result can look like crap (never mind the time and energy you have to invest when you can spare the time). As much as I try not to fret over imperfections, I do care about how good the end results look. Those who have been down this road, is the price right versus other options (replacing panels via hunting them down on eBay, DIY repairs, etc.)? About the only practical way I see to do it cheaper is if I can get the replacement panels dirt cheap on eBay already in black in perfect condition. Knowing what plastics cost, I doubt people are giving them away that cheap. I know I could probably knock the $500 price lower if I choose to only have him fix what's damaged, but to be fair, if you paint the left side, you really need to do the right side so it matches. Excluding the tank, all I could drop from the list would be the rear cowl and the grab rail behind the seat. So, I don't see the price going down all that much.

Since both mirrors have gotten their share of battle scars, I have two options. 1. Get new assemblies. 2. Fix/paint the damage and replace a damaged wire harness in the left side one. Anyone see a new set of these floating around for sale?

That's a thought, but you know what they say....You get what you pay for. I might save a couple hundred and end up wishing I just bought the HEL system and saved myself the aggravation. Sometimes saving money has hidden costs.

$539! That's a bit too rich for my blood. :icon_doh:

I wonder if my front shocks could use replacement springs loaded for my weight range (200-210). My old Kawasaki could be done that way. I'm not interested in replacing the forks with different ones if all I need is stronger springs. Anyone done this?