Zero Knievel

Okay, I'm going to upgrade the springs on my shock (and do much neglected maintenance) this winter. JB4XX has a set of 1.0 springs (based on the markings) at a good price. Researching online, I know if I go with "linear" springs (like JB4XX is offering), 1.0 seems to cover from 200-230 lbs (rider). Over 230 lbs, the calculator suggests going to 1.1 since it's the closer match. I most always have the top case Givi on the bike rather than use a tank bag. I'm not sure how much weight it adds, but if my tool bag is in there, I suspect an extra 30 lbs ON THE TAIL of the bike should be considered in addition to my 205 body (215 if you want to account for gear worn). If the bike is fully loaded with 3 Givi cases, I suspect an easy 30-40 lbs each case needs to be factored in. When riding FOR FUN, I have only the top case with my tank bag in it. I don't normally pack the tool bag, but on group rides, I like to be prepared...so let's say 30 lbs to be safe. When on a trip, I don't push my riding because I know I'm loaded down, so I'm not sure if that matters at all. JB4XX thinks the 1.0 will do fine for me, but is there really that much of a difference in what that 0.1 difference in the spring calibration will do for me? I don't ride very aggressively, but I've pushed my limits from time to time. If you've seen me ride before, my bike is totally stock on suspension. Likewise, I've checked out the progressive springs from Hyperpro. $20 more than linear springs (new) and they have rear springs for $126. Are they worth the $$$ considering how I ride or am I really just pissing away money on them? I am planning on converting to stainless brake lines this winter because I'm noticing the brakes aren't quite the same anymore (10 years of stock hardware), but brakes are important, so I'd justify the $500 that's going to cost.

I may be interested. What kind of weight were those rated for as compared to the stock springs? I'm an easy 200 lbs, and when I tour it's safe to say there's another 70-100 lbs on the bike.

It looks like a lot of amps, but the pump (while very small, about the size of a quarter) uses a magnetic pulse to "pump" the oil, and I can attest that it won't do squat on a weak battery. I've had to prime the oil line by parallel attaching to a car/truck battery to the bike because a motorcycle battery won't last for long if the motor's off. I'm sure the thing rarely uses over 1A otherwise.

Pablo replied. The fuse is a 4A slow blow (4AS or 4AT) Max draw is 3A at the start of the pump pulse.

+1 First day of my trip, half my tach seemed dark. It corrected and didn't happen again, but I suspect something is working loose.

If for no other reason....rigidity at speed. Maybe the panels would rattle as wind passes. The foam makes a soft cushion to keep it steady.

Yes, I've e-mailed Pablo, but he's not replied yet, and I'd like to get what I need today if I can. I can't find anything on the unit or in the documentation that gives the specs on volts and amps. Obviously, it's 12V, but I can't determine amps. There is a fuse in the unit, but it's marked "T4," and I just can't seem to get a translation on what the SAE equivalent is to that. I can presume it's 4 amps but I'd like to know for certain.

Pssst. He was lying to you.

Especially if you can rig a nice little cover so it blends with the dash.

I question if you could do that with the XX because of the limited space behind the mirror. Factor in that your turn signal is there.

I have no picture available, but I chose to mount it in the right cover panel (aft of the throttle grip). The biggest problem is that there is very little space for it there, and you get one chance to cut the panel right. Mine wound up being something like 1/8" too far up and it kept hitting the air intake duct. I had to cut a big chunk of it out so the panel would go back into place (I sealed the hole with aluminum tape...no performance issues). I can't see a lot of places to effectively mount the Datel....a problem most sport bikes have. I'm going to rewire the voltmeter to a switchable junction block. I use connectors so that I can remove the panel with the Datel in it without taking the whole harness off.

I'm thinking of that option too. I just got a new part to replace one fairly scarred up, so it's in pristine condition.

I already ordered from Vintage Connectors, but I'll look for those. The auto parts people didn't pull them out to show me, so either they were clueless about their inventory or they didn't carry them. I'm surprised more stores don't carry stuff like this in the DIY electrical section.

Not interested in trading my XX. Too much invested in it. I've got AS (autism) and I tend to take things very literally. Leave a detail out, and I'll get confused about what you mean. That's why I kept asking what you wanted to trade for.

Still have the can for the product #?

And that's why I called you a stupid cunt. Silver tongued devil.

You stupid cunt, he wants to trade his '97 ST for an XX because he misses his '97 XX. How did you not figure this out? He said he traded a 97. Didn't say what. That's what threw me. He never says he wants to trade the ST for a XX. He just says he wants to trade. That seemed ambiguous to me.

Nice bike. Thanks! The same one. Hell, it's the only ST I've had. For sale or trade. Make me an offer! Thanks When you say "trade," it'd be nice to have an idea of what you're open to trade for. I can get you two large sack of crabgrass, but I suspect that's not going to be something you can use.

This is the 97 you originally had or another one? You say "trade"....do you mean sell or are you trying to trade for something else?

For 1997-1999, this was the color code for the Blackbird (NH359M). http://www.colorrite.com/product/honda-nh3...tallic-1453.cfm $15.95 for a pen? $33.95 for a can? Is this the only option or are there other products with the same color on the market? I tried Google, but I've not found a comparison chart to cross reference.

+1 That's what I was thinking about. Can't find those in the stores around here.

I'm kind of thinking that he has had the header off maybe once. In that case, you always replace them when you take off the headers. Once crushed, they never really work right after that. I know some would slather on a layer of gasket maker and reuse them, but they are cheap enough.

Um....WHY? Exhaust gaskets should not ever need replacing unless you are taking off the headers.

I saw the other thread. Manual says every 15K? One year? Heck, I'm like 10 time overdue on age alone (lol). A mechanic told me that you really don't need to worry about fork oil if you don't abuse the bike and the seals are holding, but I think that was geared towards saving $$$ rather than optimal performance. Rather than a Mighty Vac (or penis pump), you can make your own. Save a spaghetti sauce jar, make two holes in the lid and attach tubes. Suck on one, use the other to drain fluid. The fluid will fall to the bottom of the jar as you draw air. It should work fine if all you're doing is draining off excess and not hosing up a lot of liquids.

R/R is supposed to be hot. It's channeling a lot of voltage. Anything with cooling fins/heat sink is fair warning that it gets hot. If parts are melting, it's too hot, though.