Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Zero Knievel

Members
  • Posts

    23,790
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    31

Posts posted by Zero Knievel

  1. 8 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    Wait...sigh.  I think I know what's coming.  Did you split your 5 and 2.4 networks so they can't work together?


    Have no idea what that means.  The modem has 4 channels.  Primary and guest for both 2.4 and 5.0.  I have no idea if they can see each other, not that I’d expect that to matter where connecting to the internet or when testing between a device and the router as compared to device to device within the network(s) run by the router.

     

    8 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    Also, those jitter numbers are beyond retarded.  Who's the ISP again?  Cable or DSL?  How old is the modem?


    HughsNet satellite.

     

    8 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    These are very good numbers on our cable, but you really should see latency below 50, well below, and jitter over 20 makes voice useless.

     


    That my jitter is worse via cable compared to WiFi is mystifying.

  2. Okay, the results from my work laptop using speed.cloudfare.com.  WiFi results taken within 3 feet of modem/router.

     

    And, yes, it appears the WIRED connection did worse than WiFi.  At the time of these tests, I'm on my "bonus" time (no throttled performance) and there should be considerably less internet usage than during work hours.

     

    WiFi 24 20230724 0458am.csv WiFi 24 20230724 0458am.pdf WiFi 50 20230724 0502am.csv WiFi 50 20230724 0502am.pdf wired 20230724 0454am.csv wired 20230724 0454am.pdf

  3. On satellite, I can’t go by latency because…satellite.  What is considered “healthy” jitter?  I downloaded an app (WiFi SweetSpot) to test data transfer rates between device and router (in-home WiFi), but without a guide of what is good and what indicates trouble, the data is of little use.

  4. Curious.

     

    Just now, wired has a jitter of 238ms…wireless was 152ms.

     

    The 5 gHz channel is not showing on phone, pad or laptop.  Interface says it’s on.  I’ll try a hard reboot of the router.

     

    Nope.  No change.  Granted, the laptop is from 2013, iPad is 5th generation, but iPhone is a 12, so unless all of these don’t utilize the 5g band….

     

    Work laptop does see and operate on the 5g radio, but I can’t install Speedtest as an app and the online version doesn’t report jitter.  There’s a saved link to a different test.  If it reports jitter, I’ll see what it gets.

  5. 2 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    The analog drivers in both modems and wifi seem to have a lifespan (in consumer gear, not so much enterprise gear).  The way to isolate wifi from the ISP/modem side is to test both speed and latency with a wired connection, then with a wireless connection.


    Recommendations on what to use to do that?

  6. My WiFi is a combo cable (coaxial) modem/router unit.  It’s gone out once before…so I know it can fail.  Last time, one of the two radios failed completely.

     

    What warning signs are there that the radio is going out?  I have a 2.4 gHz and a 5 gHz channel.  I suspect the 2.4 is dying…again.

     

    What can I do to test WiFi performance (to/from router)?  How would healthy vs. failing look?  Of late, internet performance has been bad, but between weather, haze in the air, etc., I don’t know if it’s the router or not.  Downloading 10 GB of data (game update), the download kept failing.  I have “rebooted” the router 3 times…which helped the performance for a while.

  7. Done.

     

    Not anywhere near as bad as you all suspected.  No gunk or clumps.  Dirty, yes.  It was worse when I did my S-10 years ago, and it didn’t have even 100K on it.

     

    Hardest bit was cleaning off the old gasket.

  8. 8 hours ago, IcePrick said:

    Please name the things we get from meat that we can't get "elsewhere".  I can line up a half-dozen highly athletic vegans that will disprove your theory.

     

    I would be more appropriate that we obtain better quality from meat than elsewhere.  B vitamins, for example, come in a readily absorbable form from meat than from other sources.  It’s the same deal with colloidal mineral supplements.  The body processes less than 10% of straight mineral supplementation.  Up to 50% if it is in chelated form.  Colloidal is around 90%.  Plants grown in mineral rich soil convey the most effective amount of mineral supplementation.  You’d have to take double or even 10 times the desired dosage in lesser forms.  The meat from animals works the same way.  Being an “athletic vegan” means nothing.  It’s an uphill battle to remain pure vegan before it’s just easier and healthier to start reincorporating real meat into the diet.

     

    8 hours ago, IcePrick said:

    Have you done the math on what it takes to make real meat?  I bet the Diesel fuel to grow and transport all that corn adds up.  Dow Chemical for the weeds, anyone?

     

    There is zero evidence that fake meat is more environmentally sound.  The costs of making and transporting the chemicals they need, the costs to grow and transport the plant crops needed to make it, the power required to synthesize the end product, etc.  Unless they’ve produced numbers subject to scrutiny and peer review, I know of very few synthetic processes that use less energy than the natural process.

     

    8 hours ago, IcePrick said:

    Any idea how much water goes into feeding a meat animal, and how much clean water they foul over their lifecycle?  How about the "packaging" process?  What kind of chemicals are used for cleaning those facilities?  Do vegan burgers release the same amount of greenhouse gasses that a steer does in its lifecycle?

     

    Any idea of the water crops require?  I know of blood feuds in Wyoming over water rights because farmers want the water for crops and the Indian tribe (who has superior legal right to the water) lives in a desert because all the water was diverted away from the reservation for the farmers.

     

    Cattle are naturally harmonious with the environment.  Indeed, they help sequester more carbon back into the environment than they are accused of releasing.  Pretty much every criticism you can cite is focuses on industrial ranching operations…just like raising chickens.  Poor land management.  Etc.  I see idiots complain how land used for cattle could be used to grow crops….WRONG!  Maybe if an operation is located where there is rich soil with lots of rain and long growing seasons, but you can raise food animals most anywhere…your “heads per acre” depends on the natural food available for grazing.  That’s why you see cattle, horses, etc. shipped en masse north and south with the changing seasons…trying to maximize use of available grazing land.

     

    8 hours ago, IcePrick said:

    Yes, we are designed to eat simple, natural foods.  But we're talking about people who eat a serving of beef twice daily.  Substituting the Beyond burger had measurable benefits over beef in this regard.


    So, perhaps we should rethink how much meat we consume regularly.  What the WEF wants is to essentially ban meat consumption for the commoners (why else do you think Bill Gates has been buying up farmland and bankrolling “fake meat” research).  Every “synthetic” replacement for a natural product has produced health problems that did not preexist the release of the product.  Artificial sweeteners, margarine, fat substitutes, etc.  Presuming you don’t have certain health issues, eating red meat, butter, whole milk, natural cheeses, etc. (in moderation, of course) is a healthier choice than trying to eat the synthetic substitutes only to suffer the long term consequences of their impact on the human body.

     

    Remember, high cholesterol is not a disease…it is a symptom of a larger issue, but how many doctors and pharmaceutical companies focus on forcibly lowering the cholesterol numbers with drugs?  How often do they consider that some people have naturally high cholesterol in spite of healthy diet and exercise practices?

  9. 6 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    LOL, worth what...?

     

    Peer reviewed studies say otherwise.


    1.  It is well established that we get things from meat we can’t get elsewhere.  We’re omnivores for a reason.  There’s a reason you can’t survive on a pure vegan diet.

     

    2.  The process to make fake meat is energy intensive, uses a whole host of chemicals to mimic the end product, and it is also well established that our bodies DO NOT do well with processed foods.  We are designed to eat simple, natural foods.

  10. 1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

    A generic wall hanging hook(s) should do.  Or just slam a nail or screw into the framing to hook it onto.  Or hey, here's a really crazy idea, allow gravity to do the 'mounting' work for you and just put it on the floor.

     

    52 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

    Something you could try, connect to the current antenna cable wherever it goes into the house.  If the cable problem is out near the antenna then it'll work.

     

    IIRC the cable comes in under the house; if the cable is totally fucked going into the house, it might be easier to go under and replace it and leave the antenna outside than to figure out a clean way to drop it from the attic.  If it's a one story house, it might be easy to drop a cable from the attic down between the studs to where the TV is.

     

    For that effort, I'd just sooner put it in the attic.  I'm looking for the best way to run it through the wall.  I do have the thought to simply buy two wall plates for coaxial cable and install one opposite the one behind the TV and in the ceiling of the closet.  The cable itself might be an eyesore, but at least the connections will look professional.

     

    1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

    Since it worked inside sitting right next to the TV, how bout just putting it behind the cabinet the TV is on?  It'll be more blocked, but might still work.

     

    It has to be aimed generally in the direction it picks up signals, and it's too damn large to sit indoors.

  11. 13 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

    I wonder about the difference between mounting indoors as apposed to outdoor as far as signal strength?


    Well, I mounted it outside, and it works like shit.  I put the amplifier back on (outside component I left off), and I get worse performance with it.  So, I’m looking at a combination of failed amplifier and/or bad/deteriorating wire.  The antenna didn’t work in the house without the booster attached, so one is needed, but there was like 3’ of cable between the antenna and booster at the time.  It will be simpler to mount it in the attic than to re-run wire out to the antenna pole.

     

    FYI, the Radio Shack booster was a 2 part system.  Booster in the house, amplifier on the antenna mast.

     

    That it got very good reception in the house indicates that obstacles are not an issue unless there is considerable mass involved.  In the attic, I can place it higher than it was outside and where there is less mass in external obstructions (trees) in the direction I must aim it.  The key is to find mounting options intended to bolt to roof framing.  I’ll likely have to go to the hardware store and ask around.  Searching online is useless because you need to know the name of what you want to find if they have it.

     

    Anyone have a link on how to run cable through a wall that’s already closed in?  I know it’s done, but I’d rather learn up before drilling holes, and NO, I don’t want to put holes in ceilings and walls Willy-Nilly.

  12. 1 hour ago, SwampNut said:

    Oh...polarization matters!  Mount it horizontally, not at an angle with the rafters and shit.  I've seen that, not good.

     

    Well, basically, follow the instructions.


    You mean vertically, right?  Horizontal would have it facing up or down.

  13. They do make gaskets for my differential.

     

    A question on lube.

     

    Haynes says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid

     

    I don’t see a lot of SAE 90 on auto shop pages…most all cover a range.

     

    What do you suggest?

  14. Is there a way to clear cache on Safari but not cookies and vice versa?  I hate it when the solution is to clear the cache, because I lose everything when all I want to do is clear out old cached files that may be causing issues in the browser.

  15. Would I just drain and fill…let it sit open for X minutes to let gravity drain as much as possible…rinse the gears with a proper cleaning agent to remove as much old grease before closing up and refilling?  I know “motor flush” products are prone to make things worse when it absolutely needed and are not recommended.

  16. 2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

    Like Super said earlier, put both tires in the air, spin forward.  Do both tires spin forward or does one spin backwards?


    Both spin the same direction…whether I spin forward or backward.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use