slowrideCX

They are a direct replacement for the factory bulbs. They look great. I don't remember the info I can look when I get home. They came from ebay and cost me $4 for 8 of them with shipping.. 😀 I took the bike for a test ride after changing the oil yesterday all though it was only a few miles it ran perfect and the charging system was rock solid. Hope it was just time for some TLC. I am hoping to get some more miles on her before Sunday. Dave if we can sneak away early enough from the ACS endpoint on Sat we may try to scoot out to meet up with you guys for a little bit. No promises though. Message me your phone number so I can get a hold of you to hook up.

Boobies... 😀 😄 😄 😃

Ok Karen said there are no blemishes that she can see, and is looking to get $150 plus shipping. Loki gets first shot then Kelly and then Chris as they messaged me in that order. If they pass then its game on.

Hahahahaha 😀😁😂😃 Trooper Littledick... Yes I admit my memory is not so good. I blame it on the blows to the skull I took as a teen while racing motocross. 😀 or many other things I did as a kid...lol That day we had a great time till Littledick said he was chasing us for miles... yeah as if... loved the Judge and prosecutor though.. they were great. After this weekend my schedule slows down a bit so we will have to plan something. Ok back to the gremlins. Well never did find the smoking gun but went over every wire, connector and switch I could find. I found some corrosion on a few nothing bad. Cleaned coatwd with D E G and tested the battery. The battery is rated at 200cca so I tested it at work with our load tester that the mechanic has and @ 200amp load for 15 seconds the voltage never dropped below 11 volts so the battery passed the test. I even pushed the limits a smidgen and went to 300amps for about 3-5 seconds and the voltage only dropped to about 10.4 still a passing grade. I love Yuasa Batteries... After putting the battery back in and finishing all checks the bike fires right up and runs perfectly. I put the charging system under full load with all lights 4ways on baord air compressor and fan running. Still charged at 14.1 volts for the 5 mins I tested it. Thank god the R1 RR has fins cause it gets warm. 😀 I am leaning towards a bad ground as the cause of my problem. My reasoning is that everything that could put that much load on the charging system has a fuse and if it was to draw enough amps to shut the bike down it would pop the fuse first. So after I put all the pieces back on the bike and do an oil change and coolant flush I am taking it for a shakedown run. 1 thing I did while I had it apart was to change out my dash lights with LED bulbs and it looks good. Thanks for all the help. Keep your fingers crossed that my baby is well again... 😀 I'll let ya know how it works out.

Ya know for an old fuck you have 1 hellova good memory. .. 😀 😁 Yes you are correct. It would put out just over 13volts from time to time for short periods which I guess was enough to keep me going. Yes that was the ride where we used my bike to troubleshoot your bike and fixed yours and then mine crapped out...lol 😀 Speaking of fast rides when the hell are you and I going for a ride? You owe me a trip...

Not sure how it would effect the FI bikes. I am old school. In 09 I road home from WV with a toasted stator by pulling all fuses that i didn't need. Made it 350 miles on just the battery. 😆

I do hold the button down when I turn the key so that the bike is running before they try to fire. I will see what I can do with switching them. If there was an issue with the balast though it should pop the fuse for the headlights if it over amps at any point though. IIRCC it is a 10amp fuse. Once the bike is done I am going for a test ride locally to see if it shows its ugly face again. Maybe if I change the blinker fluid that might fix it... I think it is still original.

Joe I will make sure to pull that apart tonight while I am working up front . I did click the kill switch off while I had the bike running last night and it worked normal also bumped the start switch while running to see if the HID'S were giving any issues firing up, everything worked seemlessly. No major drop in voltage (maybe a couple tenths of a volt). I will still pull the switch apart and check it out. I did find that over the winter Fival started making a nest in my air box. It was not enough to cause any issues but just enough to make a mess. Guess I need to hunt that little bastard down 😠 as I told him as long as he didn't mess with my stuff I would leave him alone. 😃

Ok so far I have not found the so called smoking gun. The battery is a Yuasa YTX14-BS approximately 4 yrs old. I have the battery in my truck so I can take it to work and use our fancy expensive load tester. My cheap harbor freight 100 amp tester showed it to be good at 200 cca which that batterybis rated for. Now on to the wiring. I cheched everything and nothing seems pinched. The fact that my volt meter never dropped below 13.8 amps except when the motor was off is making me think I have a bad ground. So I started cleaning and putting dielectric grease on all the plugs/connectors, many of which I had done many years back when I had replaced the stator. I did however find a few more that were not done. I pulled the main ground from the battery to the starter and cleaned and put dielectric grease on it as well. I pulled the CDI unit out and made sure that was clean andadded DEG to it also. Tomorrow I will finish pulling the dash out to check that and install my new LED dash bulbs. While I have the ole girl stripped down I figure no better time to service her also. Cleaned the air filter (K&N) tonight. Going to flush the antifreeze and change the oil also. Then I will install the summertimevair in the tires... Before I touched anything tonight I tried starting the bike and she came right to life with no issues whats so ever. Voltage never dropped below 11.5amps while cranking all lights fired right up blinkers blinked 4way flashers all worked on board air compressor fired right up and the voltage barely dropped to 13.6 volts full load@4500-5000rpm. I do have some wiring I want to change around while I am in there. I will let you know how the battery tests out tomorrow. My last battery (also a Yuasa) lasted almost 6 yrs. If it is time to repkace it I will. I have seen a shorted battery still start a vehicle but make the computer do some funky shit and the car ran like shit. Thanks for all the knowledge. JOWHEE NO need to bring more tools I have plenty. I am hoping to have it squared away by Friday. We could however go for a nice little ride and test it out though. Worst case I have a bike lined up to borrow for Sunday if need be. 7fiddy shadow baby... or a KLR 6fiddy.

My HID's are wired into the factory headlight wiring . My volt meter is hooked to the external fuse block and both + - that feed it are hooked to the battery. Everything has a fuse and all fuses are good. Ground sounds like a good place to check. Thanks.

Will do thanks guys.

Make total sense. Thanks Joe.. I will start looking for issues when I get home. Do you think a load test o. The battery will show it? If that is the problem. I hate things like this. I would rather find a burnt connection or wire. 😀 Well at least I have plenty of beer to keep be company while I trace the wires and check connections....lol Thanks Joe.

Mikey I will start doing that today. Joe my volt meter is connected to my exteral fuse block u der the seat and that pulls power right off the battery. The wierd part is it ran fine after I removed the tail fairing. Thanks for the tips Ill look into it tonight. I'll let you know what I find.

Joe yes I have HID's the battery is a few yrs old. I will have to check my records for exact date. It is a yuasa AGM not some cheap wally world battery. I will look into the right side switches. Would that cause the bike to o ly run on 2 cylinders though? I have never run across anything like this. It's very wierd. Thank for the idea Joe Ill look into it when I get home.

My baby got me home safe yesterday but the last 1.5 miles was on 1 maybe 2 cylinders. She seemed to hick up and stall out about 12 miles from home. Clock reset to 1am all dash power went away then came back. Volt meter stayed lit and never stopped charging so I know the charging system is good. I tried thumbing the starter but nothing so I bump started it and it sputtered and then ran fine till thenlast 1.5 miles. It hick upped and stalled out again but not totally. Still ran on what seemed like 1 maybe 2 cylinders. No dash power except the clock. No head lights or blinkers. I limped it home and when I shut it down and tried to start it it had NO power. I pushed it into the shop and started to remove the tail fairing . Checked all battery connections and related connections. All seemed tight. Turned on the key and thumbed the starter and she fired right up and everything worked fine. Ran like a champ for about 10 mins in the shop while I tested things. She is charging at 13.8-14.2 volts. When I had it outside the shop and turned the key on there was no headlights but they would flicker like they were trying to come on every couple of seconds. Once in the shop everything worked as normal. I am scratching my head on this one. After work today I am going to dig into it a little more but wanted to see if the minds that be had any suggestions for me. I NEED to figure this out before the weekend because I have the ACS Bike a Thon on Sunday and that is a very long grueling day for the bike as it is a slow day and the bike tends to run hot all day. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Lmao not sure who that might be. Looks like the TV. I didn't take the pics. Any takers? Karen is cleaning out the garage and would like to unload this case. Make a respectable offer and it maybe yours.

Congrats on the sale and too the new owner.

Brett's (AirborneXX) wife Karen was cleaning out the garage and found this in a box. Not sure if it is brand new or gently used. I have not seen it with my own eyes only through these pics. As you can see in the 1 pic there is a price on the tag of $259. She will take any reasonable offer. I believe it is the 40ltr. No hardware just the key to open it. Message me if interested.

98 is an F 3 . 1999-2000 were F4 so you should be golden with the plastics you found.

You are just going to have to show up with your CBR6 at RacerXX to see just how sexy the new Speed really is! Im tryin ... really I am....

You gotta be one sexy looking bitch these days... even more so then before....

I must come visit so I can see your new flooring....

As for changing the lines I am going to have to take them all off the ABS pump so I can get to the inner lines because there is no way to get a wrench in there and have room to turn it. It hits either the other lines, frame , or the cab floor. Unless someone has a trick they can share. It would be really appreciated. You may be able to get in there with a crow's foot line wrench and an extension and/or swivel. I tried a regular crows foot but couldn't turn it. Do they make crows foot flarenut wrenches? Hummm going tool shopping... Merry Christmas to me...

Thanks I will do that. I thought that the front and back were seperate and should still give me front brakes. Maybe they were still grabbing a little but no where near 100% rather then pump the reservoir empty and get air into the system I just used the E-brake and down shifted. The brakes feel fine now. I won't do anything with them till after the holidays unless I need to. The nickle lines sound like what a friend of mine was telling me to use he said they get it by the roll and it bends real easy. As for changing the lines I am going to have to take them all off the ABS pump so I can get to the inner lines because there is no way to get a wrench in there and have room to turn it. It hits either the other lines, frame , or the cab floor. Unless someone has a trick they can share. It would be really appreciated. I am gonna have to bend them in place to get them in and around all the shit that is there. They don't think about replacing these things when they design them. I was thinking I will tag each line and take a pic of where they go before taking them off. When I put new brakes on it after the holidays I will fluch the lines regardless and do a closer inspection of the lines. Changing them will be a PITA but a piece of mind for safety sake.

Nothing. The pdal went right to the floor. I had to use the E-brake to stop.