lew69442

Absolutely right! Although it does have a Penske. Anyway, got home after work and figured I'd give it another go. hit the starter..... 13 secs later BIG POP! (I was timing it) figured "yougonnastartorbust"... kept spinning... 28secs HUGE POP... 32secs it started. Put 65 miles since and hasn't missed a beat. So I figured sitting in a detached HOT garage for 3.5 weeks must have left it dry... or something... Thanks to all who have made suggestions. Dam it sounds like Johnny Cochran himself might have come up with that “alleged” prognoses……. :icon_think:

As far as I know the Garmin Quest is still the only "Water Proof" unit on the market. For me this is a really important feature for this kind of investment.

Dualstar fan also. Buy their simple $4. high/low switch as the heattroller (rheostat) is really over kill.

Mike, here is the specific page from the Digi Key site.Page 285

From what I have seen with the various recievers I have owned, they all have the same antenea connector which is a bonus. I'd suggest either going to Radio shack ( they sell accessories ) or trying e-bay. I actually used a windshield suction cup mount on my bike but stuck it to the gas tank. It has held on just fine through a few wheelies and one run up to an indicated 157 mph. I ran the power and antenea wire under the gas tank and out from in front of it. I coiled the excess length around the mount itself. I too need another power cord because I keep stealing the one from my truck to use on the bike and I'm getting tired of having to unbolt the tanl and lift it up and then the reverse to put it all back in the truck. The only difference on the satellite antennas are the old style two wire and the new style one wire. The housings for the antenna wire on the receiver end of course are all different depending on the manufacturer and there are currently twelve different varieties available. All the pin connectors are crimped not soldered and Amphenol RF has a selection of all of these “FAKRA” SMB style connectors try this Linky. Lew

If they are Heli's they maybe the older solid inner version.

OK, so at what sea level is the RT that is running away from his XX????

All of your info seems like you have considerable time documenting your riding but when you stated that and RT is running away from you this throws a flag. I ride often (& aggressively) with a couple RT's and this does not happen NOT EVER! And the only performance item on my 02 is a K&N air filter. So with that said do you have another Bird available to do a performance comparison with??

Electronic cleaners are only going to clean surface oxides, grease, flux etc. If corrosion is your issue and you absolutely can not replace the connector you can try a bit of muriatic acid and apply it with and eye drop dispenser. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and rinse well with water. If you never had the pleasure of playing with the stuff read the fine print.........

Looks like a sweet three day project to me Although I'm sure having a room full of new Bird parts will be missed

Westmarine is a good source. There you will find marine grade electrical parts which in turn will have either tinned or nickle plated contacts. Here is a under the seat pic..........

That's it You'll find it a bit more electronic friendly

I didn't know that, I thought the fuse was to protect the device. ....and I didn't know that either. What does a relay with a suppression diode across the coil look like? Does what I did look OK? I know the Power from the battery to the relay is a little light but I will remedy that when I get some 40 amp wire. It is only running the GPS at the moment so it is not a problem yet. The signal is running of a 'key on' circuit so I shouldn't need a suppression diode relay should I? Thanks for the tips. It is really appreciated. Don't get all caught up in the relays capabilities so much as you will never draw close to it's rating (30a continues duty & 40 mom for a typical off the shelf Bosch). First try to determine (if possible) what you anticipate on installing and add all the amperage draw, add 10% or so for a buffer and then rate your wire, fuse holder etc. If your still up in the air about what is to be installed then just simply make the circuit capable of carrying the 30a max rating on the relay which roughly depending on the length of the runs should equate to a #12 awq wire (bigger is always better). As far as the suppression diode across the coil again it is in place for when the coil field collapses (turning the relay OFF) the current needs to go somewhere the diode will let it bleed to ground. With your current install (relay ON with ign) this is not and issue. For identification purposes the diagram put on the side of most relays will show it\or not between the coil terminals #85 and #86.

You certainly want to fuse the line side of your aux run relay as close as possible to the battery as the fuse is there to protect the wire (not a device) in the event of a short or over current. You will rate your fuse in relationship to the size and length (round trip) of the wire. Same thing for fusing your consumables (GPS, etc) the fuse is protecting the wire feeding the device. If you intend to switch the aux run relay via the running lights no problem with using any off the shelf relay. If you decide to switch the coil side of the relay via a remote switch (toggle) be sure to look for a relay with a suppression diode across the coil on the relay this diode will suppress the collapsing field when you turn the relay “OFF” and help eliminate voltage spikes thru your electrical system.

I know ZG makes a touring screen but I'm only aware of the DB for XX. Several of the guys a ride with have the lip and swear by it but for me it has no place on a Bird. For how you plan to ride go OEM. For long jaunts,cool weather rides the ZG will tend to lift the air flow above your shoulders a bit more.....

Another mystery solved. And thanks for screwing up first . I mean posting the issue and resolution . I'm about to order the same filter for my '01. Kneedraggers has the best price on that filter, like $40 bones, right? Draggers, is the best price @ $40 beans.........

Aahh, we have found whom we all seek and no longer shall we fear trackdays or cold tire low sides :icon_snooty:

I would imagine they don't offer bundles because you can choose from so many different options. Round or oval, race or stealth, length and finish of the can. Lew, IIRC a set of mids, and two aluminum cans were in the $900US range. More for different finishes. Dave, the mid pipes are a gimme as it is the best design I have seen being that it omits the clamp on the can. On your Bird the Blue cans are money. But for me I'm into the low maintenance and the look of quality SS and I 'm going to continue to shop around for SS can's with the same overall dimensions as your Hindle's for the moment until I get a little further along.........

2nd that... Most modern body shops are able to handle plastic rash repairs easily as todays cars are made of the same stuff :icon_shhh: For cracks,missing pieces and general screwed parts this comes recommendedClick Me! or you can get it from Aerostitch. Any good body man could make a killing off of rashed parts from ebay :icon_think:

So with that said one would assume this to be depending on the can selection a $1200 or so venture?? Dave??? :icon_think:

If I were still in NY, and had access to the exhaust shops that I did while I was there, I'd try to have some custom mid pipes made myself for my D&D's. You could use regular steel pipe and have it sent out to be ceramic coated. If you do contact Hindle and they still offer the high mount let me know how you make out as I've been searching for the same thing........

Don't worry about current :icon_hand: MUST HAVE VOLTAGE Dude I"m in RI if you're against the wall........

Man you have to check for spark :icon_wall: If you don't want to mess with pulling the plugs just yet get a volt meter across the two DC supply wires on one of the coils to see if you have ignition.

I have also experienced the scalloping fronts and even though I have been pleased with the rears for the first 2k miles they are awful in the cold regardless of the warm up time.