CBRBob

Truthfully HIDs in the high beam are not a good idea. They dont like to be 'flashed', its not good for the igniter. Put a 100w or a HID in the low beam and a 100W in the high beam. You get the most use from the low beam and the extra draw is minimal.

With the twists and poor 'T' coming off the end of the header, a full system is the way to go on this bike. I had 2Bros slip-ons and they were loud as hell(I did get them for $200, then sold them). The Micron makes a great power curve and is actually quieter than the slip ons. It's also an oval and if you get carbon, you don't have to worry about heat near the bags.

The 'milk crate' has it over this thing. Seriously, a vertical static balancer just plain works. I balance street tires for the bird and race tires for the RR on my vertical balancer. Never had a vibration or bad tire wear.

If you don't hear pinging, you don't need it. You just need what is specified. If you have modded the bike (pipes/filter dosent count) you 'may' need it. Ignition changes, high comp. pistons cams etc. If you have made those changes, you should have the bike mapped anyway and they can dial in the ignition for whatever gas grade you are running.

If the Hyperpro's are progressively wound springs, proper preload has very little to do with dynamic suspension setup. The problem being is when you try and get your preload correct the closer wound end of the spring compresses and eventually you lose the 'softer' ride you gain by using them and the bike rides on the farther wound part of the spring. In other words, if you use straight rate springs, setting sag will be easy and damping will be more consistant and predictable if/when you adjust it. You won't have to guess and compromise how it feels on the soft and hard parts of the springs.

Al. sprockets on big HP bikes are a nono if you expect and life out of them. I have used the Stealth/Sidewinders on the rear of my trackbikes(929/1000RRs) and they are great. They did not have one available when I changed the chain/sprockets on the XX so plain old steel AFAMs are on there for over 10k now. I lube with Maxima chain wax every 500mi. and it leans the chain as well.

Just remember to turn the bars to find the spot where it takes up the most slack and then adjust it so there is zero play. That way the throttle will never open by moving the bars.

With actual dyno testing, you don't gain any real power. You do get more low/mid throttle response which (depending on the riders throttle control) can be a good or bad thing. With the XX on the dyno, the tuner dialed in +2 and +4 ign. across the board (like the advancer would do). We found no gains, but a slight loss (-2) just before redline. Then tried -2 across the board, no losses or gains. I was running 93 pump gas. When tuning the 929, we found a slight increase in power by going -2 the last 1500 rpm. This can also make the bike run cooler in some situations.

Michelens are 'different'. I have ridden on many brands of tires and I have never felt comfortable on Michelins. Pirelli, Metz, Dunlop, Avon all felt familiar and stable. Mich's always felt like they were wandering when leaned over. Sadly, I found this to be true for their race tires as well.

Normal, it should float a bit to somewhat self-align with the rear sprocket.

I took the extra step, I had the hose go to the left as well but I removed the subframe bolts and routed the res to an underseat position. Super clean install and easy to get to. You may find that the shock is too long and adds too much ride height with the adjuster all the way in. Prior to removing the old shock, with the bike on the centerstand, measure from a point on the swingarm to a point on the subframe. Then when you install the new shock you know how much height you gained. Too much makes the bike twitchy and the tire will not be off the ground on the centerstand. If need be, unscrew the bottom mount on the shock and grind a thread or two off so all the threads bottom out when screwed all the way in if you need to lower the rear.

Close is ok, as long at it dosent touch it for sure. What you could do inseatd of cutting is a longer bolt with a spacer on the lower mount. That would move it away from the engine block forward to the radiator. Leaving that mount alone.

OK, whatever you want to call the part that jackets the swingarm with the adjuster in it........

Umm, why would you do that? You should have the axle blocks all the way forward and keep them there (with your knee or hand) and then torque the nut. That way the chain slack stays the same and the wheel alignment stays as well. If you torque the axle without it positively located the slack and alignment will never be correct.

The larger the bore the more fluid you move and the 'harder' the lever will feel. The harder the lever the less feel as you will brake harder with so little lever movement. Being able to almost pin the lever to the grip will give you a broader range of feel but less 'power'. If you use a smaller bore the piston will move farther as well with the lever so if you are looking at bore and stroke, yes large bore/small stroke and the inverse. There is a balance and it is very subjective as to feel. Many people i ride the track with use large bore m/cs and get a lever that barely moves. These are usually the novice riders. What ends up is with less feel they tend to overbrake often. Too soft a lever and you have to move the lever sooo much that the bike reacts slowly but they can modulate the brake force very well. The m/c bore vs. total piston area is where the 'feel' comes into play. Like I said, very subjective.

The rear m/c works fine pushing the 3 pistons. The front being 'adequate' means just that, it works but isn't great. You can find many parts from Honda that look the same with a bigger bore or go with something with a separate res. I had a 929 and a 954 m/c setup and used the 929's with the 3/4" bore. It gives a firm lever with good feel and works VERY well if you can handle increased sensitivity. If you want slightly less sensitivity, use a 954 m/c with the 11/16" bore. The lines bolt up correctly, the plug fits but you have to move the cup slightly so you can still see the tach.

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Cool. Just so you know, the PAIR-ectomy gives zero perfomance improvements. The most it will do is with an aftermarket exhaust, take away the popping under decel. It's a good mod to do if you are already into the bike, but not worth doing unless you are bored. :icon_wall:

Could just as easily use soft straps around the lower triple clamp or use this improved version of the Cramyan Damager Cycle Cynch This one doesnt pull the cuff laterally.

2 rubber caps and hose clamps from auto parts store, $3. If you like it, cool.

FYI, If you use Dynojets maps and load them with a Palm, you will get the FI codes back as the Palm software does not trim the maps. They trick is to load the map into the XX with the updated software, then download it back FROM the XX and save it. The newly saved map can be loaded with a Palm without problems.

When I put a PC2 in my 99XX back in 2000, I used a Dynojet map. I had the light come on a few times but never had rideabilty issues. Just cycle the key on and off and it would go away for a day or so. I notified Dynojet of this and what they said was I was using an old version of the tuning software. The latter versions recognized the limitations that the 1st gen of FI XX's had and what would trip a code and would trim the available maps accordingly to not trip codes. I used the nes software and had zero problems since. I also had a custom map made in 2004 and still no problems.

FYI, the Purolator PL14612 is the same size as the Honda MM9 filter. The MM9 is the longer of the 2 filters Honda uses (the other being the MCJ).

Canyon Dancers are notorious for mashing grips up to the control housing. Thats why you should never use them.