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pcinpdx

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Posts posted by pcinpdx

    Top trunk/case - seeking info and sources for purchase

    in The Garage

    Posted

    A friend of mine installed the large version on below on his ZG:

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/MATTE-BLACK-TRAVE...14603_10111.jcw

    I've got the same one. Looks like prices have gone up as I got mine for $50 shipped but that was about a year ago. The build quality is decent and it works fine but I can tell you right now, it's no Givi, but for the price differential it's not a bad case. As far as that cheap ass universal plate goes, throw it in the garbage. It started bending on me within the first 400 miles and the case was bouncing around due to the wind buffet. Nothing a little bending and strategically placed duct tape couldn't handle but the plate is more of a hassle than it's worth.

    BTW, with a little finesse this case will marry up to a Givi rack...

    low beam high beam

    in The Garage

    Posted

    headlight fluid??

    Ahh yes. Lower viscosity headlight fluid works better in low light situations - kind of like ISO on a camera. I don't know why all these guys are getting HIDs when they could just use lower viscosity headlight fluid.

    Be careful though - the negative viscosity fluids will burn out the headlamp quicker.

    O ring on brake pad bolt/pin

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I noticed the same when I changed my brakes this weekend. Since the dealership didn't have them in stock, I put everything back together without them. I've ordered the new ones. For my '02 the description and part number are:

    O-RING (2.5X1.5)

    45111-MAJ-G41

    Cost is $2.73 per ring.

    I figure it's just as well to spend <$10 for something to do with my brakes. I don't care how mundane the part is.

    Little problem replacing front sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Thanks for the info Chris. I went ahead with the 16T just because I want a little more grunt down low. That and White Buffalo didn't have an 18T in stock. Heck, if I don't like the 16T I can easily swap it out for an 18T. Front sprockets are cheap.

    Looks like I'll be ordering that speedo healer...

    Damm it, I will have to throw on my 16T so I can keep up with you on 36.

    LoL...I'm doing that just so I can keep up enough to smell your exhaust! :icon_smile:

    Where you guys buying your sprockets? I was thinking about going bigger so my revs stay lower at highway speed. That, and I would like a wee longer first and second. Yeah I said "wee longer" :icon_whistle:

    Check out http://www.whitebuffaloracing.net.

    Fork Oil Change

    in The Garage

    Posted

    You might check that 230mm number, too. I know there were were changes to the specs which included fork oil level, but I'm pretty sure my '01 was supposed to be set at 140mm. Check the manual and make sure you've got the specs for your model year before buttoning it up.

    Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely consult the manual to make sure I've got the right numbers

    I did mine the lazy way and just removed the bolt on the bottom of the tubes and pumped the forks.

    I'm almost positive that's what I'll do next time but if I can tear it down, see how it works and put it back together again without majorly fucking something up, it gives me some sense of accomplishment. :icon_evilgrin:

    Fork Oil Change

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hobi,

    I'm pretty sure I understand but want to double check with you on refilling the fork tubes. If using the overfill method do I create an apparatus that looks something like this:

    post-2623-1208902201.jpg

    I take it that I would insert this into the fork tube until it touches bottom and then suck out everything to the bottom of the MightyVac tube which would be right at the 230mm mark - correct?

    post-2623-1208902201.jpg

    Little problem replacing front sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Thanks for the info Chris. I went ahead with the 16T just because I want a little more grunt down low. That and White Buffalo didn't have an 18T in stock. Heck, if I don't like the 16T I can easily swap it out for an 18T. Front sprockets are cheap.

    Looks like I'll be ordering that speedo healer...

    Little problem replacing front sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    The broken record speaks again:

    Did you wipe off your rod?

    (clean the clutch actuation rod)

    Yes, both after cleaning up inside the cover and area around the rod and also after looking at TopXXCop's last NWS post...

    You will definately feel the extra grunt from the lower lower gear ratio, but it will make 1st almost useless, 2nd a whole lot more fun adn you will loose some MPG do to higher revs at freeway speeds plus add a little vibration as ou can't get a rubber dampened 16 like stock 17. I think the XX shifts better with a 16 or 18 than it does the stock 17, without using the clutch.

    The one think about using the 18 tooth is that it makes 1st usable on tight hairpins and 2nd becomes the only gear you need up to about 65 -75, so riding 36, you can make alot less shifts.

    Won't the 18T also help with speedo correction? I'm *thinking* about a speedo healer but if the 18T is going to bring me closer to reality I might skip the speedo healer for now. That, and my farkle list is outpacing my budget. :icon_surprised:

    Little problem replacing front sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I've got it dialed in. Part of the issue was that I didn't have the spacer in, but I knew that. What I didn't realize is the thickness of the spacer. That, and once I did have it in place there was still about a 1/8" gap. I then put in the bolts that hold the cover on and tightened them (carefully) to make sure there was nothing binding. The cover sucked up as it should and everything is golden. Thanks for the push in the right direction Stan. :icon_thumbsup:

    Now I've got to decide if I'm going to go with a 16T or stock 17T sprocket up front...

    Little problem replacing front sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    OK, so I've taken off the cover to expose the front sprocket and cleaned everything up. When trying to replace the cover it does not go all the way on - it's sticking out a 1/4" or so. One thing I should mention is that the clutch lifter rod started coming out when I pulled the cover off but I believe it seated back in properly.

    I'm thinking for some reason the piston for the clutch got pushed out a bit while cleaning the cover. If this is the case I would imagine I could open the bleed valve and then push the cover on. I'm not too worried about getting air in the line because I'm replacing the stock clutch line after the the sprocket swap.

    Can someone help me out here?

    Galfer brake/clutch line lengths

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Can anyone tell me if the Galfer lines are longer than stock or the same length? I've got a set of VFR helibars for my '02 XX and I'm getting ready to install. Would I be safe going with the standard XX setup from Galfer or should I go +1" or +2" on hose length?

    Braided brake lines - complete LBS system

    in The Garage

    Posted

    http://www.russellperformance.com/motorcycle/b-pro1.shtml

    This page shows the line itself. Click on the link to "View Fittings" for the 10mm banjo's .

    I bought this thru Power Sports Pro, but I have a dealer discount with them.

    Thanks Porter. Another question I had was regarding the banjo bolt for the MC - It would appear that a longer one would be needed if you are adding an extra banjo up at the MC. Is that correct? If so, can you help out with what you ordered? Possibly a part number?

    Thanks again and sorry for the hijack everyone...

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