gharknes
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Posts posted by gharknes
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bike tyres should not be stored for long periods, they have a sell by date like food.
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torque is the ability for the engine to turn the wheel at any given rev, hp is calculated from torque and revs and load.
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Now, on to serious matters, what air pressure should I run in my tires?
Honda book says 42 psi front and back I believe, I run 42psi front and back
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you guys not see my post ?
i really do think FS can cause gearchange problems, I have also read this on other xx sites, semi or mineral is most likely more than enough for most "on road" none turbo engines, i competed in motor sport for many years and had a turbo engine which always got FS oil, if Honda recommend mineral or semi why use FS ?
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As an active memeber of the UK site and close friend of Jaws I question the appearance of this wiring loom problem here in the States.
It was rarely seen but did show-up in European models only. If there is anyone here on this site that has had to have a Loom replaced either under warrenty of at a cost, they need to speak up.
I have seen many "FI" problems but never one that involved the wiring loom replacement. I believe this was isolated to European models only.
If your FI problem is an intermittant light but no engine cutout problem.... then check your electrical grounds and the problem can be gotten rid of easily and permanantly as many have done.
not a major issue, took me 30mins to remove the connector and make my own using basic terminal block, but it was evident on my bike.
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i changed my tyres from BT010 to BT012SS and my wobble went away......tyre pressure could also have contributed
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I cannot confirm this until I change my oil again but after having changed to Fully Synthetic oil (motul 10W40) my gear change seems to have deteriorated dramatically, clonking serverly, very smooth when cold, seems to get worse as it warms up, I live in hot climate.
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I would like someone to offer some basic knowlwdge on the XX alternator-R/R.
What I think
1. The alternator appears to produce max output at about 2 thousand RPM.
yup about right
2. The R/R converts AC current to DC AND regulates the amount of current that is allowed to charge the battery and or power lights fan, pump etc.
....sort of..........it is the voltage that is regulated, if voltage from alternator is above battery voltage then the battery will charge, the limitation is how much current can be provided as load increases, this all equals power
3. The amount of current produced by the alternator is subject only to RPM. Load has nothing to do with it. Excess capacity is wasted by grounding the output and producing heat.
....current is limitless until something breaks down...a bit like the function of a fuse, anything in the charging circuit could be defined as a fuse, the regulator controls the voltage which in turn controls power which is almost like a variable fuse, if voltage drops then current will increase to supply the same power then something gives.
What I want to know.
1. If the alternator output is constant, why is a dead battery any harder on the R/R than a fully charged one?.............it isn't, a dead battery as you mention is faulty and creates a greater drain on the charging circuit
Are the diodes "stressed" by doing what they are designed for,
....technically ...yes, adding load to the charging circuit relieves the work load on the rectifier circuit, not the diodes as such.
2. As for jump starting a motorcycle with a car. The car battery is much larger and has more ampacity. The current needed to roll the starter is a "demand" made on the battery not like a fire hose in that the system will only consume as much energy as necessary. It appears that some people assume that the jumper cables will allow massive amounts of current to enter the charging loop and fry the system.
..do they ?
While I can see the potential, the only caution I can see is to make sure that the polarity is correct and there is no unintentional grounding. Does it matter that I am jumping the system with 10 amps or 100 amps as long as I make the correct connections?
..current is a product - voltage is the force, so yes
Since the borrowed current is already DC, the rectifier portion of the XX should be doing no work at all?
...if you load the charging circuit to its full capacity the the regulator not rectifier will be relieved of it duties
think of electricty like a river, the volume of (depth width) water is the current, the voltage is the incline.
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couple more observations
When the bike is cold the gears go in without a sound, it seems to get worse as it hots up
Could be related to the recent oil change
I put in fully synthetic and it seems to have made it worse, I read somewhere that fully synth in a bird can cause or make the gearchange bad - it could be the oil motul 10W 40
http://www.motul-asiapacific.com/thailand/.../4stroke08.html
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your problem could be any one of many poor electrical connections, you can narrow it down by excluding some items as suggested above by shorting them out effectively taking them out of the senario, it could be anything from ignition switch to fuel pump, what you may need to do is go round as many electrical connections as possible and make sure they are tight and secure, also check the relays and fuses under the seat, when it dies do the lights go off or is it just the engine stops ?
you can also run the engine and start getting your hands in there and jiggle a few wires/connectors and hope the fault shows up, move the stands slightly if either shuts the engine down then it is too sensitive, the list of things that can cause your problem is huge, an intermitant electrical problem is very very hard to find............good luck
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cheers for that very knowledgable post, i am having it looked at next week, my mechanic said very similar to you.
The other thing I have noticed is if at idle and in first gear with clutch lever in - there is a ticking sound that can be felt in the chain, the clutch is also noisy in neutral and the sound changes when i let the clutch on and off. I run with fully synthetic 10-40 oil changed last week, there's 30k kilometers on the bike and every thing else runs very well.
The worrying thing is the 1st to 2nd gear shift, it gets neutral sometimes and is then very difficult to get into 2nd from there while moving, it really grinds and the gearshift lever kicks back, i can force it into 2nd with a very loud clonk, it just isn't normal
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removed clutch slave and cleaned push rod, it was dirty but didn't make a difference.
When the bike is on the center stand ticking over at 1000 revs, when i pull in clutch and slowly push down gear lever to select 1st gear it grinds in and jumps the rear wheel forward, once in gear the rear wheel only moves when i let out the clutch, during the selecting process there is something turning that shouldn't be so the clutch must be dragging somehow, perhaps one of the plates is warped but not enough pressure to turn the drive train once in gear but when in neutral is rotating the main shaft in the gearbox, this would explain symptoms, is the clutch difficult to change ? I have stripped car engines and gearboxes etc but not bikes. From the manual it looks like the clutch is a series of plates all pressed together by the pressure plate, do you have to change them all or just a warped one if found ?
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I think it is definately clutch related, if I change gears slowly letting engine revs drop and wait a second or two it slips into gear easily, also on idle my clutch is making some noise when i engage and disengage.
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what i have discovered is if i let the revs drop between changes it is ok
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My bike intermitantly grinds into 1st gear and has problems with 2nd and 3rd, very very loud clonking, other times it slips in almost silently. Today I went of hard in 1st - the passage to 2nd was a nightmare, it dropped into neutral then wouldn't engage 2nd, grinding grinding then eventually with a loud grinding clonk got 2nd, the bike doesn't seem to drag the clutch, on the center stand 1st gear clutch in the wheel remains still although thats not to say that the clutch engages correctly all the time, 1st gear when it clonks and grinds does move the bike forward slightly.
I am going to bleed the clutch and clean the push rod tomorrow, is there anything else i can check while i'm in there.
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99 xx 20k Fi
1. How often should the chain need adjusting, I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again, it is kept well oiled.
2. How do you know the chain needs replaced, and if it does what should also be changed.
3. My bike has a serious clonk when selecting gears, especially 1st which grinds into gear and 3rd, sometimes all of them, sometimes it is very very smooth with no problem. Does the clutch need bleeding or is there something else I should look at. I know honda's have clonky gearbox but this is worse than a clonk.
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Not easy to search for Power commander, it brings up quite a few posts to search through. A sticky might be an idea
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the honda clonk
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I have a 99 Bird and it appears to have the beefy regulator fitted complete with heatsink, is this stock or has it already been replaced ?
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i'm going the audio route, simple piezo buzzer
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maybe he hit somsthing with the bottom end and lost oil, that would do it.
did you check for leaks, check for oil
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I think 6-8 hours is very very optomistic, i would say less than 2, FI models run a lot more stuff than carb, yes turning of lights and other stuff you don't need will help but not for 6 hours, to be honest i think you'll be lucky to get 1 hour out of it.
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bought a handful of bulbs today, remove windscreen and replaced 4 bulbs
easy
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assuming everything stock on my 99 FI XX, what is the easiest way to replace dash bulbs.
Camchain
in The Garage
Posted
is it a sort of tinkling sound