gharknes
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Posts posted by gharknes
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I think I have an RR gone on the XX (98) and ended up w/ a dead battery.
Went to jump start it (as it was flat) and fookin reversed the cables +- and -+ then turned it on. :icon_wall:
Naturally nothin! No light not even a glimpse of life in the eletrical system.
SO what did I blow? I pulled all the fuses and they were all good.
Battery?
Relay?
ECU?
Some remote fusable link?
I know no one on here has ever done this but if you have any ideas post up. Thanks in advance!
The heat index was well over a hundered and I was dehydrated....oh and the sun was in my eyes are my excuses.
OK, if you have put a battery in the bike that has some sort of charge and you are still not getting lights etc, then you have a main fuse gone somewhere, this I have no doubt, did you check the fuse I referred to in my post, it is to the left of the back of the tank where the RR feeds too, this has some heavy wires that go to the starter motor and also feed the battery from the charging circuit, there is a fuse in there, when your bike is electrially dead like you describe it should be very easy to find the problem, is there any heavy sparking when you try to connect the battery up, if not then this could be good, good luck hope you find it.
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I think I have an RR gone on the XX (98) and ended up w/ a dead battery.
Went to jump start it (as it was flat) and fookin reversed the cables +- and -+ then turned it on. :icon_wall:
Naturally nothin! No light not even a glimpse of life in the eletrical system.
SO what did I blow? I pulled all the fuses and they were all good.
Battery?
Relay?
ECU?
Some remote fusable link?
I know no one on here has ever done this but if you have any ideas post up. Thanks in advance!
The heat index was well over a hundered and I was dehydrated....oh and the sun was in my eyes are my excuses.
if your battery was completely dead then it is unlikely you have damaged anything although it would depend on how much energy the jumper source had, there are two main fuses on my bird (99) just to the left of the tank rear, these will kill eveything if gone, not sure of location on a 98
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Thanx alot guys... Like rockmeup says it makes sense now. After I pulled over and the bike stalled, I kept trying to start it to see if I could get any clue as to the problem and after a few times it did lock up,(which scared the shit out of me), but then after a minute or so it would turn over again. I'm going to go pick it up bring it home pull the tank, the airbox, the plugs and hit the start button and push whatever gas maybe in the cylinders out. They did do one oil change and said there was some gas in it. But again you guys have been alot of help thanx, I'm just pissed 'cause I ain't ridin'!!!!!! I'll let you know how it turned out.
it really coul be as simple as a charging or electrical problem.........when you try to turn over does your dash lights dim.............anyway .... it's an engine and your a mechanic, don't even consider going back to the rip off merchants
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You could always buy a continuous OEM chain without a master link, and just drop the swing arm.
I live in Thailand and it is extremely difficult to get stuff here for big bikes, there is a secondhand market or if in Bangkok you may have a chance.
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I'll try to enlarge the picture. Like I said, I just don't see the plate press involved.
Maybe I'll have to get a battery and a nickel. Probably work best with a Canadian nickel, eh?
it seems that EK do a chain and the rivet link has like threads and nut on it that you turn with socket once fitted, this compresses the rivet and forms the rivet end, seems to be a good job, no special tools required ??
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OK so just did my first commute (or opened it up) with the modded pipes. There is a significant difference at wide open throttle. It is not loud, it just sounds a lot better.
Also I noticed the cans are a lot cooler now after my 60 mile trip.
Lastly, and this is a reach, but it seems to keep the engine a bit cooler. I didn't get over 185 degrees and most of the trip was fluctuating between 176 and 177 degrees, this is the 'hotter' (and faster) FI bike.
Speaking of fluctuations, an asian man goes to the bank to exchange some yen. The teller takes the transaction.
Next week he goes back and performs the same transaction, but gets back a little less cash. He inquires and is told it's "fluctuations".
Irate, he storms out, and at the door turns back and yells "Fluc you americans too".
Sorry.....
OK so just to clarify, you guys forced something down the center hole of the stock pipes - right down a far as the feed into the baffle, this then means you effectively have a straight through system, is this correct, how much force did you use, I'd be scared of damaging something doing such an irrreversable act ?
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First: Long time lurker. Thanks for all the help already given.
Second: Just yesterday my bike started hesitating under load from low rpms. On further investigation I could hear what sounded like arcing or an intermittant ticking. I took a look for an arc but didn't see anything. Power above 5k rpm seemed normal.
Anyway, rode the bike to MotoGP today. (Had to because I had a failed R/R last year on the Sat evening before MotoGP and couldn't bare the humiliation of driving a car there two years in a row.) Got me there and back but the problem remains. (Of course.) Anyway, had the idea of checking for arcing in the dark and sure enough I can see a lovely blue flame jumping from the cyclinder head to the top of the radiator.
Could this possibly be caused by a bad ground? If not, what else could be the cause? Any advice is welcome.
Thanks folks.
as mentioned, a plug lead or plug cap with loose fitting will cause this, easy to find on a car but no as accessable on a bike
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Anybody out there fitted the rivet type link without the tool and if so how ?
or
Can anyone that has seen the tool/link suggest a method to complete the task without using the official tool
Also if I buy the chain from DID and it has 114 links, how do I get it down to 110 ?
cheers in advance
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Make it loud so the blind can enjoy it too.
LMAO!!!!! :icon_clap:
LMAO X2
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I was busy refuting the loud pipes save lives thing. By even making such a silly statement, you imply belief that loud pipes are somehow contributing to your safety. I think you will find I am far from stupid and probably have more experience riding on the street than you will ever acquire. I passed the million mile lifetime mark about 12 years ago.
Sound does, indeed, travel forward but when directed backward, the majority of it will go that way. What you hear when sitting on your bike comes mostly from sound reflected off the pavement and not much travels forward to reach the ears of a car driver. That is particularly true here in the civilized world where most vehicles on the road are running with their windows closed and climate control systems on, not to mention stereo system, cell phone, screaming kids and other distractions.
Assuming the car driver even does hear you coming, you are giving far to much credit to think that one will be able to determine your position and closing rate from sound alone (ever wonder why your ears are shaped like cups to catch noise from the front?). Then you further have to hope that the car driver will react to the sound of you approaching in a positive way. One would hope, do nothing, but I have seen quite a few folks, when startled by the sound of a loud motorcycle in their proximity, swerve and not necessarily away from the bike (see earlier about detecting direction of sound).
There is even some argument that headlights can act to our detriment. Many drivers use the change of apparant spacing between headlights to judge the speed of approaching vehicles and we, with single front lights present them with no useful information other than a slight increase in conspicuity. The number of accidents that include both a driver turning in front of an approaching motorcyclist and followed by the "I didn't see him" pretty much says that you could ride down the road with a flaming rocket stuck up your ass and drivers are still as likely to turn in front of you as not. A motorcycle is not seen by many drivers as much of a physical threat to them and they thus tend to ignore our very presence.
:::::you imply belief that loud pipes are somehow contributing to your safety::::
yes i am and it does, it pays to be seen and heard, it is not a substitute for safe riding and no-one implied that, I currently ride in Thailand, trust me when I say "every little helps" I often pump my horn to let people know I am there (stock pipes)
according to your statement, maybe we should turn lights off and be as quiet as possible......what ???
perhaps there may be some truth in what you say while driving at night when both cars and bikes can only be seen as a light or lights, caution is always best, when a driver looks toward oncoming traffic and sees a mass of headlights, it is very difficult to pick out the bike at the front which could be considerably closer.
Adjust your driving to the conditions, darkness - rain - fog etc.
Being heard is a good thing for driving around town, especially in Thailand, it's of little or no use when on motorways or major roads.
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Leaving your safety to the fact that you have loud pipes on your bike and depending on others to react approriatly to your presence as a result of that sound is, to be nice about it, somewhat foolish. In fact, I would prefer that others don't know that I'm there till I'm gone. Maintaining proper position on the road and anticipating cage driver's actions is easier that way. I treat riding in traffic as pretty much the same exercise as running full speed through a herd of cows. Read the flow and get through the tight and slow spots causing the least disturbance to the stupid bovines will keep you from getting stepped on or shat upon. Just my $0.02.
he did not say he was leaving his safety to loud pipes (what a stupid post) the point here is - anything that improves safety is very welcome, we ride with lights on.......is that relying on your lights for safety ??
every little helps
PS, sound travels forward too
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First of all, does anyone have the data on the rear front/front rear brake distribution, can't see it in the manual.
Secondly I was surprised to see that the feed from the front to rear caliper activates 2 pistons and the main rear foot pedal only one, wouldn't this have been better the other way round ? can it be changed
Also can the rear foot pedal be adjusted, I find it a bit high for my footwear
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when accelerating hard in second gear a serious wobble when the front wheel lifted due to a bump in the road, I know this is caused by me pulling on either bar uneven when its in the air and coming down out of line, hard to contol I know when under extreme acceleration, perhaps my head needs tightened up a little on the bearing
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Horns
in The Garage
mine are under the tank
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My best guess is water in the electrics. As the bikes still running and its only the non essential elecs that are effected (I know you still need indicators etc... on the road). Leaving it with the seat off in a hot garage should get the water to evaporate our of which ever loom or contacts it is across
fuse ?
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HID
in The Garage
When I installed my HID I found it difficult to get the high beam at the correct level without making the low beam too high, so tonight I fiddled about with the bulbs and specifically the angle they sit in the holder, all things being equal you would think if both bulbs are mounted the same way as the stock bulbs then the beams should be as they where before........well not so, I put a slight downward angle on the high beam bulb in its holder and hey presto I now have a high beam pointing forward as opposed to slightly downward, using the adjusters just didn't work, when the high beam was correct the low beam was too high
Just thought I'd post this, maybe others have same problem perhaps don't even realise.
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It is pretty common on EFI bikes, especially those equipped with closed loop systems using an O2 sensor for feedback. The sensor is a bit slow to react and, at least for the typical narrow band sensors used to meet emissions controls on bikes using catalytic converters is really no more than a switch that oscillates back and forth between saying "too lean"/"too rich" trying to keep an ideal mixture to maintain the converter in a "lit" condition.
Problems occur when the O2 sensor starts to age and loses response causing longer periods of correction by the ECU. Sometimes the system gets into a feedback loop that causes prolonged periods of too rich or too lean running with larger swings than would be normal. The motor then can seem to hunt for an RPM kinda going between bogging and surging. In fact, at least in BMW land, it is called surging.
Some other factors can influence this as well such as valve clearance, throttle body synchronization and ignition timing variations (knock sensor).
I have not really noticed this so much on my Blackbird but have seen it, in a very minor way, on a couple of my BMW twins. It is pretty easy to ride around it just by dropping a gear and keeping the revs about about 3K RPM or so.
yeh it does only happen at around 1500, but not much you can do when in trafic at 10mph or slowing down to traffic lights or such like, I end up just pulling the clutch in and free wheel........when stationary it is very easy to notice if i hold the revs at about 1500.........it sounds like only 2 pots are firing.
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well my chugging at slow speeds is getting worse, I changed the plugs and it seemed to help for a short time, it is also a little rough at idle so I think I may have something wrong, fuel consumption seems to have gone up as well, will try carb cleaner next then I don't know, fuel pressure regulator may need checked also
It is getting very annoying, so bad that if I'm going really slow I pull the clutch in to disengage the drive, otherwise it get really rough
any other ideas ?
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On a bucket/shim system like the XX's, normal wear should produce only a tighter clearance. Looser means you are losing metal from someplace that you don't want to hear about....like the cam lobe. Once that hardening wears through, the base metal ain't long for this world. While its disconcerting to think of your valves and seats wearing, THAT is normal engine wear.
well i'm lost, if a shim wears the valve doesn't open as far as it should and you get noise as the cam lobe slaps the shim due to the larger gap, can someone explain what "tighter means"
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WTB
in The Garage
need a stator and regulator for a 99 bird.
why both ?
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Bulb should last longer than that. Sorry.
Perhaps as the ballast continued to draw higher current to fire the bulb, your voltage increased as the regulator let more though to supply the demand.
i would say exactly the opposite, as the bulb is failing it requires less power allowing the voltage to rise slightly under less load
it would be interesting to hear how other peoples perform over time, although remember bikes are hard on bulbs - unlike cars we run our lights 100% of the time
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Yeh I gues yur right so Ive replaced the R/R .................... now just my clocks and battery to deal with ......Nightmare.
Anyone know where I can get cheap clocks or at least the circuit boards.. I need speedo and rev counter FI model?
Cheers for the assistance
Ben
why do you need new ? I am wondering that your display is backlit so probably only need to replace the bulbs..............can you describe more about what went down
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Guys I have managed to get a hold of a R/R but its different? I think its from a 2001 Model (mine is 2000).
The connectors are the same , can anyone confirm if it is compatable?
Gonna try it anyway
Ill let you know
i'll stick my neck out here and say the only thing that could cause your problem is a failing rectifier/regulator resulting in high voltage, i would get this replaced as soon as possble otherwise you may find yourself replacing more expencive items than bulbs.
the voltage between each of the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator should be around 50vAC, the bird has a 3 phase stator and would be difficult to get more power from it, same with the battery so the one thing in your charging circuit the controls voltage is the RR
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When I turn my HID on it goes bright instantly then dulls for a few secs and gardually get to bright again, is this the way it is supposed to work ?
When new the HID need to go through a burn in phase. If you're charging system is good, you should have no problems after a couple of hours run through them.
+1... Obby has it right...
The "instant bright", slight dimming, and then "steady bright" is normal for HID... just enjoy the greater light and don't sweat it.
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS IT IS GOOD, ALMOST GOD LIKE, People know you are there because from a distance you are right behind, nice thing out in thailand is you have a bike that out shines the average pickup, they own the roads here but not any more COOOOOOOOOOOOOOL, i love it.
HID is just hideous....................................i have scared people already, they pull over to let me past
love it........................but also it is safe here........more awareness
Battery, R/R, or Stator? Final Update after repair
in The Garage
Posted
Burnt connector on the yellow wires from the stator will indicate a coil gone bad in the stator "1 of 3", the effect this has is reduced charging and extra load on the remaining 2 coils/yellow wires, this will cause them to overheat and burn the plastic connector, if there is no stress showing on this connector then I'd go for the RR or associated wiring, check all the connectors first, check the condition of the fuse to the left of the battery under a little black plastic cover, it's located just outside the frame near/in front of the RR.