IcePrick

What model UFO is it off?

I know I've seen some great ones, but never did find make/supplier. I'd like a clear lens, and a really bright brake light, preferably strobing. I'm not too wrapped up with integrated turn signals, but if it comes that way, so be it. Any help?

Ti-colored cases means '99 and up, yes? Looks very nice. Smuggler and Heli's usually aren't squidly additions.

Well, I don't want to slam what some people feel is their next step or whatever, and to some it is appealing and their baby. There is little argument that it is technologically superior - I'm just not done with the "outdated" blackbird just yet. I have it close to where I want it, but who can turn down a weight loss, better suspension, and more power in a familiar package that you already love? Truth is, if I bought a 14, I'd be out buying all the upgrades for it also; I'd be at $20k pretty quick. Bought a set of ZX10 wheels on eBay last night...

Ditto. A ZX-14 is NOT in my future.

A week should be fine unless the battery is already having issues. If you have to leave it for more than a few weeks, I would remove the ground terminal to reduce the level of parasitic drag from the bike, but it will still self-discharge some even disconnected. Good info here: http://www.batteryuniversity.com

Whoa. Invaluable info there. Major thanks! *edit* Looks like my path will be ZX14 front end and ZX10 wheels. I want to keep my Ohlins shock and current chain/swingarm length, and it saves some weight and money to boot. I found the wheel adapter kits on one of the ZX forums (I'll be needing the front only), and will have to have the rear caliper mount fabbed. Other than the rear caliper, ignition switch, steering stops, brake lines, and bearing issues, it looks like almost a drop-in. What am I forgetting?

Ahhh... thanks. My search didn't turn that one up. Lots of good info there. I now have to assess options on the wheels... Thanks, everyone, for the empirical research! *edit* Oh, boy... here we go. Started buying parts!

Thanks for the help. Knowing that the mod makes that much of a difference, I'm okay with spending more than I expected. I think there was a time that more of that stuff could be had for cheap, but it may be gone. Maybe wait until spring and the squids start crashing them by the dozen again.

I'm going to start collecting the stuff for the ZXXX upgrade this week. I've scoured the posts on it, and have a few questions: 1. Any year ZX front end? 2. Are the ZX calipers preferable, or are there others that are better without major modding? 2a. Use the ZX master cylinder or keep the Honda? 3. What was the final result on the top bearing - make an adapter, or did there turn out to be a useable bearing? 4. Stan, you used the XX swingarm at first, enlarging the holes for the axle. What made you change to the ZX? 5. Does the additional 2" of ZX swingarm have a large impact on the handling? If I use the ZX arm, do I use the XX pivot bolt, make bushings for it? 6. If I use the ZX Swingarm, I'd like to use my current Ohlins shock - can someone speculate what would have to be done to make that work? I've been looking on eBay and maybe now is a bad time, but it looks like ~$400 for forks with the triple, $200+ for mc and front calipers, front wheel with no rotors $200, rear wheel with nothing ~$250, $180 for a swingarm, and $60 for a rear brake/master. Does anybody have a source they have used that is cheaper and reliable? Better yet, if someone has some spares/extras they'd part with - I'm in the market! I'd like to be around $1000 or less, but with all the talk of $100 bearings and custom-machined bushings, I'm concerned that it'll sit half-finished for a year.

I got the R-1 style R/R from Roadstercycle.com as recommended by Hank. I also ordered a Shorai battery (the 18amp), so when that shows up, I can test the stator before doing the install. I really think it is okay and the issues stemmed from my flukey battery, and the R/R is a peace-of-mind thing. I'll remove (hardwire) the stator connector under the tank if it shows ANY signs of heating, and clean it and apply dielectric grease if not. I'm thinking of applying heat sink paste to the back of the new R/R for extra measure. While buying the Shorai, I bought one for the 990 Adv and the 530EXC-R. And a special Shorai charger. That was an expensive phone call.

The trip to Daytona went fine, steady at 14.3v - 14.7v. I'm convinced it was the battery. Made it home at 2PM today after 5 hours in 36* weather with the electrics going full blast. Tomorrow I'm going to take things apart and check all the connections to be sure there isn't anything egregious hiding. Then I'm going to get a stator to have as a spare and change the R/R to the Yamaha. I've searched, but the forum seems to be full of the keyword "regulator", "R/R", and "Stator". Can someone point me to one with all the info I need to do the conversion? I think someone makes a solder-in adapter harness? Who has decent prices and/or a board affiliation?

R-1 regulator uses a different plug IIRC so plan on getting that too. BTW, I have a buddy in Daytona...Lemme know if you need some help from a local... Hank Many thanks - local help is always good.

Good advice, as always. Tomorrow morning I will take apart all the leads/connections, get a new battery, and try to source a R1 R/R in Daytona. Even if it isn't the R/R, I want to upgrade anyhow. Thanks for the help - I'll report what I find.

Not the news I was hoping for, but I'll take a look at the leads/connections. It's now in the high 15v to occasional 16v area when at speed. I don't ever recall seeing over about 14.5v before... But when an R/R goes, isn't it just gone? Do they die an agonizing death?

Now at 14.1 - 14.6 at speed.

'97 bird with an aftermarket voltage monitor. Original stator, R/R, 25k on the clock. HID, heated grips/gear but the latter is disconnected. Before I left for Florida, the battery was dead. Jumped it, wont charge while riding. Charged it overnight, no luck. It was an auto parts store brand, and had been off the tender for some time. I put a fairly new battery from another bike in, lit right up. 13.7v while at speed. Fast forward to day two of the trip. 12.8v showing before I hit the starter. Had to wait a long time at a major intersection with some construction work, maybe 8 minutes at idle (cool temps, I don't think the fan came on). Pulling away from the light, I hear the low voltage alarm chirp and see 11.1v on the display. Charges above 3k RPM just fine, and when pulling into this rest stop, no voltage drop when I stopped and idled for a minute. Thoughts? Guesses? Incantations? Voodoo sacrifices?

Looks awesome next to the tree!

For 90/10 off/on, Dunlop 606 rear and Pirelli MT21 front give the best wear if you have lots of power anda heavy bike. MT21 rear is great if you have a lighter bike. 25/75, Pirelli MT90 Scorpions. 10/90, Avon Distanzias. The Distanzias last forever, but are scary in mud. The scorps are available in a speed-rated tire. The Dunlop wears like iron, and rides like it too. What are they going on? Let us know how the Shinkos work out, especially longevity.

:icon_clap: :icon_clap: :icon_clap: Best of luck! Looks like you have a good plan. By maintaining your employment, you don't have to gamble everything. When you see that it is self-sustainable, you can make the final leap of faith. I'll be excited to see your products!

No, Snap-On is not junk. Dependent on your perspective, it may be overpriced. But if it has a lifetime warranty, and the truck comes to your shop once a week, and the guy onboard cheerfully fixes broken stuff, and you make a living with your tools, it is considered by many to be the way to go. Mac and Matco are similar in the service, but I think Snap-On has the edge on quality. And for that, they cost more. It is equipment for professional mechanics, not for the guy in his back yard tightening the screw on his kid's Chinese-made swingset. A decent ratcheting 1/4" screwdriver handle will fulfill a ton of missions (and it doesn't lend itself to prying or chiseling very well, so there's that) as you can select inexpensive bits to fit whatever weird shit you encounter. And you can have a few of each in case you shatter one on a tough screw that hasn't seen enough Kroil yet. Klein is decent stuff. It is starting to show up at the HD and Lowes, but I wonder if it is the same product line/quality as their industrial supply and catalog stuff.

Yeah, I'm going to need one of each anyways.

Dave, is that the aluminum frame or the stainless? I guess it doesn't matter. I'd be interested either way.

I completely agree. I liked mine so much I bought a second one for indoor jobs (computers, etc.). One of them is an engraved Bill Elliott signature model! (I guess it didn't sell all that well so they were discounted.) Ditto. Snap-On has a proprietary (I think) tip that grabs almost anything, and their ratchet mechanism is flawless. I have an old, beat up one that I keep in my travel toolkit and a nice new one in my garage rollaway.

Wish I knew someone who needed a truck. That looks like a deal.