IcePrick

I can't vouch for the RC51 lower, as I have the 929/954 lower with the RC51 (SP1) upper. Looking at the line diagrams and eBay pictures, I don't see why the SP1 lower wouldn't work. Steering stops will have to be fabbed no matter what. One might be able to use shorter forks with the 929/954 upper as it has a "gull wing" shape. 1000RR forks would be purty... I used the 14 front brake lines and master. The line from the master might be a bit stretched, but that may be my aftermarket bar configuration. If you go with that, you may have to make accommodations for the throttle and switchgear - I'm dealing with that now. The XX cable exit from the throttle grip housing interferes with the 14's brake lever travel. I re-used the XX clutch master. The ZX would work, I'm told, but I don't know if there would be fitment issues at the bars if you use something aftermarket. The XX master has marginal interference on the aftermarket bars, but it's going to be fine. A ZX-10 fender works and looks good with an adapter - if you're interested, I'll dig through receipts and let you know where I got the adapter and what year the 10 fender needs to be. I may have posted it previously... The ZX-10 front wheel bolts up to the 14 forks with the 14 spacers. I like the looks of the 10 wheels, and they are a little lighter than the 14 wheels. I don't know if they will have issues with the weight of the XX. Someone will let the forum know if I find out the hard way that they don't. Obviously, none of this is an issue if you use the 14 wheels and fender. Just a thought, as the 10 wheels were readily available on eBay. Using the 10 rear wheel keeps you from having to change the swingarm, shock, dogbone, chain, etc. To work, it needs the 12 sprocket, a specific year 10 caliper/bracket, and some stock Kwak wheel shims. I have not road tested the rear brake mount yet, but it *looks* like it will work without issues. I can get the specifics if you're interested. Still looking for a place to mount the horn. Not a problem, there's plenty of room, I just don't feel like tearing the whole thing apart *again* to drill and tap a spot on the lower. I'll have to re-wire the 14 kill/run/start switchgear to plug in to the XX harness, and figure out a way to run the 14 throttle cables to the XX carbs. Ask away... I'll take pics or measurements if you want/need them.

Congrats! A shame to see it go, especially so cheap. But it's down the road, and now you have an upgrade fund...

Messing around with clipon adjustment. The XX euro switch is problematic, with the way the cables exit the housing interfering with the brake lever travel. I ordered a ZX throttle, cables, and switch on eBay to see if that solves it. The clipon position I finally got seems perfect - better than VFR bars - and no tank or fairing interference. I thought that was going to be a difficult compromise, but there's actually a lot of area for adjustment that won't interfere with either.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/mcy/3139025721.html Not mine, don't know the guy, but I can take a look if anyone wants...

you must keep your bike level on an even number.. now you must either sell one, or buy this one or you will have bad luck in the next 15 minutes after reading this. Is a sweet bike.. Actually, one of them isn't mine... doing some work on it for a friend. Maybe when it's gone... I think my wife would notice, though. "How long are you going to be working on that one?" "Oh, it's got a LOT wrong with it... little intermittent things, I need to ride it a lot to diagnose them..."

Oh, you suck. That was my dream bike when I was in the service. What a beauty. If I didn't have 7 bikes in the garage, I would be all over this.

That made me think of the other kill switches. Sidestand switch may have failed, or how about the neutral safety switch, and is there a bank sensor that kills the engine in a tip over? Not with my bike right now and I can't remember - will it roll over with the sidestand, kill, or neutral safety open? I don't think so... No bank sensor on a '97 so I'm not familiar.

Bummer. Let's hope for something simple.

Mine came with "permanent" threadlocker. If yours didn't, get some red loctite and apply it after you get the bars set where you want them -- at each joint remove one bolt at a time, apply loctite, snug it up, then do the other bolt and torque them down. With permanent threadlocker you don't have to worry about the bolts coming loose. At my old job we once got some bolts with threadlocker pre-applied that was supposed to be the same strength as blue loctite . . . it wasn't. We didn't find out until we tried to remove them after they'd set. The bolts were in threaded inserts in 1/8 aluminum sheet and most of the time either the bolt head would snap off, or the nutserts would spin in place before the threadlocker let go. You can heat up the bolts with a soldering iron to release the loctite if you need to (a trick we didn't find out until far too late). I'm not so much worried about the bolts staying tight, it's the small amount of clamping/surface area versus the amount of leverage you have on the bars. Even torqued pretty hard, it seems like it could still move. Not wanting to honk on those little threads too much. If you have put some miles down with no issues, though, I'll trust your results.

My only concern with them is if they will tighten up enough to stay put. I'm tempted to get them adjusted the way I want them and have them welded into position (on all except the fork tubes, duh). Even doing that, $100 isn't bad for the materials to get them set up perfectly and then TIG them solid.

Okay, after lopping off the 929 stops, it appears that the SP1 lower may be a better choice. As it stands now, on my '97, the lower 929 clamp bolts contact the oil cooler a little before what would be full lock. The SP1 lower has the clamp itself offset further from the bottom of the stem, and it looks like the clamp bolts are rotated outboard some. The combination of the two should allow for a little more clearance with the oil cooler and hopefully get it to full lock. There's this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Honda-RC51-L...050&vxp=mtr These things don't show up on eBay very frequently, and they want a pretty penny. I guess it is a little better than this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2 $341. Especially since the eBay job comes with all the hardware - although you should be able to reuse all the BB's hardware. For all I know, the SP1 lower will have other clearance issues, though. I don't know how any of this impacts an FI bike, isn't the oil cooler in a different spot on them?

Is there any possibility that some of the new fully-adjustable clipons would work for you? I think you could get them waaaay back and waaaay up. At RedEye's suggestion, I picked up a set of these: http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/3d-clip-on-5...h5ef5j16keve1d0 They are almost infinitely adjustable, I think you could even put the riser aft of the fork tube. That has to be a 2" pullback. I haven't messed with them enough to know for certain, but I'm removing the 929 triple stops today so I should be bolting everything back up tonight, hopefully. If so, I'll take some pics.

Yeah, but counterfeiting doesn't hurt anyone.

Sorry!!! Maybe sell your triple on .com? I got the RC51 upper for $25 on ebay... the 929/954 lower was about $175 though, I think (ebay also). The next project, which I might skip entirely, is roller bearings as opposed to the existing ball bearings I re-used from the 929 triple - they were in fine shape, though. I've had a bunch of other projects that have snuck in front of this one, so I haven't done steering stops or tried out the key switch alignment yet. I swore that was going to be this week, but a TW200 refresh for a friend became more complex, as always. Maybe I can manage some time tomorrow morning. That's as close to bolt-on as I think it's going to get - I would like to see an SP1 lower and how that fits with the steering stops before I make the lofty claim that the 929/954 lower triple is THE way to go. I wouldn't mind trying a 929/954 upper either, just to see how it looks. For now, I've invested enough in parts that are laying around the garage never to be used... the cost of "research".

"Never been laid". Huh.

Man, when it rains it pours... I haven't done a stator yet, so I can't offer any advice on that. As for the R/R, I had to completely relocate mine anyways ('97) as the Honda luggage racks interfere with the stock location. Basically, I have nothing positive to add, but wanted to document my empathy for your difficulties.

Missed the reply - thanks! I'll be in the garage again this weekend! Good point on the stiffer springs, I'll have to look the rates up. But it's really just to get an initial rough starting point to adjust from.

If you have a fairly stock XX, I need the distance from the leading edge of underside of the lower cowl to the ground as a starting point for the ZX-14 swap suspension setup. Preferably not while it's on the stand, if at all possible... I had it written down (along with a lot of other stuff), but I can't find it now. Much appreciated if anyone can manage it!

...and you can probably check out of your room now, too. Maybe she'll win big and pay to have the dealer fix the XX while you're on the honeymoon.

A new battery almost can't hurt, except in the wallet. I've limped a dead one along by jumping/charging every hour or so, it takes about a 15-minute charge to get it to go for a while. I'm guessing a charger would do the same.

Radio Shack used to have a small DVM for like $30 - I still have mine in my bike toolkit. I'm sure you have all the troubleshooting guidance. A flukey battery means all bets are off. Really. You're chasing your tail if the battery even MIGHT be a little weak. For the price of a battery, it's worth it to try unless you are POSITIVE the battery is GREAT. Absent finding a a brand-new part to replace the offending one (unless you get lucky and find a bad/corroded connection), I'd consider buying a Wal-Mart battery charger and taking the battery into the hotel room to charge at night, and pull the wires/fuses on all the lights when you're riding. It will be interesting stopping to plug in every few hours... How does low voltage effect the EFI? If a '97 stator will work, my bird is down anyways... I can pull it tonight and FedEx it in the morning. I have a new R/R and the stocker (working) as well.

Stan is THE man!!! 929/954 lower, RC51 SP1 upper, all the XX bearings are the same. Stem is a *tad* longer, but bolts up fine and the threads don't extend irregularly from the 929 upper clamp nut. Bearings tightened down fine. Now I have to beg someone for some ride height measurements, as I lost the piece of paper I wrote my "before" measurements on. If you saw my garage, you'd understand. The existing 929 steering stops hit the bracket mount at the front of the XX steering head. Shaving them down will be necessary, and I was hoping that I could shave them only slightly and make them the new stops against the bracket mounting point cast into the steering head - but I don't think it will allow enough travel, and it may be too weak to handle a tipover. Out to balance the front wheel, then I have to clean up as I have company coming... Bottom line, the ZXXX is nearly a bolt-on, with just some minor machine work (Dremel) and some eBay shopping.

Lo and Behold, there was a CBR929 lower triple on my front porch step this evening when I got home. Initial measurements looks like it is very close to the XX's stem length. I'll have to test fit it to see if the existing steering stops will interfere or if they will have to be removed. The RC51 SP1 upper clamp I picked up a while ago isn't very pretty, but it will work to see if everything fits - the eyeball gauge says it should bolt up. :icon_think: Anybody have a suggestion for tapered bearings for a 929? Hopefully some progress this weekend...

Just tried the asparagus band thing this last trip. Worked okay, but my urine smelled for a couple of days. That was a deal-breaker for me.

Don't know about any for sale used, but I went with the oem Honda bags from Davidsilverspares.com. They were $666 delivered a few years ago when the exchange rate was worse. I love 'em - they look like they belong, super easy mount/dismount, and the empty racks aren't horribly unsightly with the bags off.