Toynut

OK, I will post some up tonight! No negative comments about my physique, K? I'm very sensitive!

So..................................................Who isn't?

First Manufacturing is not the same company as First Gear. See this link: http://www.firstmfg.com/home.aspx Their products are in a lot of dealerships and they have private labeled for Columbia as well as Harley Davidson (they have a weatherproof leather touring jacket that is suited for cruisers), and are not a fly-by night outfit or Ebay based business that disappears when things go wrong. The $10 extra charge still applies (more dead cow needed) for sizes over 3X, which would make the jacket cost $195.00 +S&H as you correctly stated.

I am not sure what your chest and waist sizes are, but, I think you are a bit on the outside of the "regular" realm of sizing for this jacket. Send me those measurements and I will check and see if they can accomodate you (no promises, mind you). I chose TopXXcop's design for the final design (post#9 on original thread). I do plan on changing the thread colors a bit for improved contrast on a black jacket. I plan on having them do the XX in a silver, and the CBR in a medium titanium grey thread. Here is the final patch design:

It was suggested to me to post some pertinent information from the other thread: Also : One more:

Yes, the unmodified jacket with patch is still $185.00, men or women's version. FYI, The reason we are able to get the jacket mods done for the same price is by committing to a production run (100pcs.), otherwise it would have been more.

I want to thank you all for your patience these last few months while I was researching a suitable jacket for the forum members (initiated by Angee) on this thread: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=49968 Things started to come together on pages 7 on up, and we are now ready to create an order sheet. The modified First Manufacturing jacket with the CBR1100XX patch, factory sewn on or loose in box, will be available in Men's sizes Small-2XL for $185.00 plus S&H. The jacket will come with both hard and soft armor sets for the shoulders and elbows/forearms as well as a removable back protector. A perforated version will be made available for no additional charge. Men's leather pants, with removable knee armor will be available for $110.00 plus S&H. The Women's version of the jacket which will be of the current stock design with the CBR1100XX patch, factory sewn on or loose in the box, will be available for $185.00 plus S&H. The jacket will also come with both hard and soft armor sets for the shoulders and elbows/forearms as well as a removable back protector. We need 100 modified men's jackets to be committed to and paid for, either solid or perforated leather, for First Manufacturing to commit to a production run. The open stock men's and women's jackets and optional men's pants are NOT subject to the quantity requirements. Please post up or PM me with your commitments so that I can get a count started to reach our order minimums. This jacket will also be offered on the .com forum to help make the order point. I plan to review the list in 2 weeks to see where we are before posting a future closing date to the Buy in. Once we have the necessary numbers, I will post the First Manufacturing Paypal account information to start the individual orders. I am commissioning First Manufacturing (at a premium) to make a prototype jacket for final design approval, of which I will post pics of for your review. Once we give them the go ahead it should take approximately 6-10 weeks for the jackets to be made and they will begin shipments to individual members. I plan on ordering a few extra spare back patches for the forum members who may want an extra one for future use. Reorder points on the Modified jacket are in units of 100 or more, so if you missed this opportunity, you will have to wait for a future Group Buy In should it be available. Let me restate this for everyone's benefit: I do not want to inject any negative tone in this process, but I need this to be fully understood by anyone considering joining this Group Buy. I am NOT related to, or employed by, or connected to First Manufacturing or their representatives. I AM NOT receiving any consideration, remuneration, free wearable's, samples, discounts, etc., on this Group Buy, or any future ones that may be offered. I did my level best in stating the characteristics and qualities of the jacket and pants as I saw them, although I do not represent myself as a qualified expert in any way. I WILL NOT accept responsibility, financially or otherwise, for any misunderstanding or misrepresentation of order turnaround, suitability of purpose, fit, crash protection, quality, durability, etc., of these garments or of First Manufacturing. http://www.firstmfg.com/home.aspx Sorry to have to post this, but it is necessary in this day and age. Okay everyone, the quicker we get the counts up, the quicker we can get the process rolling. Please state the product type, whether perforated or not, the quantities you wish to order, and whether or not you want the patch sewn on from the factory or loose. I will create an order form prior to any final commitments. Note** While there are no returns on these garments, if you order the stock production men's or women's jacket (the patch cannot be installed) and/or pants, it will be possible to exchange them (if they are in new condition) for size, subject to shipping and handling charges. The Modified men's jacket, patch applied or not, will not be returnable and will probably need to be swapped out/sold on the forum.

Decent unit, but, it's basically a Garmin 2820 with left hand mounted control buttons.

To be honest, even if you manage to pull the old bearing off with a puller, installing a new one will involve some presswork (please don't try to pound it on with a hammer and drift). Section 12 in the XX manual will give you some idea as to what needs to be done. I believe an Ebay motor would be a more sensible approach should the bottom end/ bearing journals be contaminated with metal debris.

You can try to use the puller as long as you don't pull off the outer race and leave the inner race stuck on the shaft. You are definitely going to have to look for the rest of the bearing parts before they start trashing your gear box, too, or you will do some other expensive damage to your internals.

I installed a complete Spiegler kit about a year or so ago on my '03. It really wasn't that difficult to do and there was little need to Zip tie the lines to the frame rails as the lines pretty much slipped into some of the original brake line clips on the frame, IIRC. I do concur that if I would have known about HEL kits being available at the time, I would have purchased one. I have installed both brands on other bikes that I own. Both companies make a good product, but, I would give the nod to HEL for this application. You can always add a couple of inches to your brake and clutch master cylinder hoses when you place your order, to allow for any future riser kit that you plan on installing. A couple of extra inches of hose will definitly not create any interference problems or bar hangups. ..............................(OK, how about that for an opening)!

Any chance a loose timing chain is really the culprit in this case? Considering the mileage on the bike, could chain stretch be a factor that a CCT is no longer able to dampen properly?

Are you basically saying that the stock chain is the only option for this gear swap, or is there another aftermarket chain that won't get torn up prematurely?

Sea Foam is still the best! :icon_thumbsup:

While you are at it, check the radiator fins for straightness or blockage by bugs/ road crud. Sometimes simple things like this definitely help. +1 on the Watter Wetter, especially if you are running a heavy water to antifreeze ratio. Remember, antifreeze also serves as a corrosion inhibitor/ water pump lube for your cooling system.

VERY IMPORTANT!! One critical thing about the Superbrace (or any other flat design)that you should know............. If you still have the stock brake hose bracket/horn mounts in the stock location, and happen to be on the heavy side (225LB or larger), or travel on rough or bumpy roads regularly, you may find the suspension travel will cause the Superbrace to contact the horn or brake hose guides possibly ruining them (pinching the front hoses closed). I found this out in less than 20 miles on Michigan roads. :icon_shocked: If you are still going to install it, consider relocating your horn higher by flipping the stock bracket upside down and installing S/S lines that don't route through the bracket. On the FJR forum, the first batch of Superbraces actually severed the brake hose banjo fitting causing instant brake fluid loss. This necessitated a redesign of the unit after several complaints.

Consider yourself extremely lucky that you didn't have the bike leaned over on a fast corner during the blowout! :icon_shocked:

Chain lube, and a spare bulb or two (particularly the headlight and the hard to find stoplight bulbs), replacement fuses, and a small role of duct tape(aerostich sells a neat tight roll), disposable gloves, handwipes and a small high quality flashlight, won't take up much space in your kit. :icon_thumbsup:

The USB cable end takes a pretty firm push to get it to seat properly in the Power Commander module. Check your connection and then retry the upload.

Cobalt bits are a very good idea. I have gone one step better and purchased a set of solid Carbide bits. Short of diamond tipped bits, these things are the way to go, particularly if you find yourself drilling into steel regularly. A set of Unibits (original or a knockoff set available at Costco) is an excellent addition to your kit. You WILL find yourself using them for just about all of your normal drilling/chamfering needs, particularlily in plastic body work. Buy your bits at an industrial tool supply distributor. That way it's easy to replace a broken bit with the same brand. Just make sure you always store them properly in a quality drill bit box, not loose in a tool drawer.

The 2112-0066 Electrosport from Parts Unlimited looks like it will do the trick and it has the heat sinks and cooling fins incorporated in the design. For $100 you should solve the problem unless your battery took a hit, too. I would take a serious look at the terminal ends and wiring harness near the regulator plug just to make sure that they did not fry with the regulator or have some of the regulator leak into the connector plug. Remember, if the terminals are not perfectly clean you will not be getting the proper reference voltage back to the regulator and possibly do more damage to the battery and or electrical system. Be extra thorough and clean the socket/connections carefully. Make sure that your battery is fully charged before installing the regulator and running your electrical system. a fully charged battery in good condition should read between 13.0 and 13.2 volts on it's own. Don't short change this repair with a used regulator of dubious quality/condition. Do it right the first time. There is one on Amazon.com for $86.00 (2112-0066 Electrosport) Amazon.com: rectifr: Automotive

Even if you pull your oil pan off the motor, you will never drain out all of you oil. The oil galleries in the crank/rods, the oil cooler/lines, the corners of the cylinder head, oil pump cavity, etc., all retain some measure of oil. Depending on the motor or bike, it could be as much as 10-20% of the total fill.

Geof, you should submt that gorgeous picture for the calendar! I love NZ, will be back next year with the wife for a Red Stag hunting trip.

Geoff, I just picked up a set of storms for my FJR1300. The rear tire tread certainly looks meaty enough to last a while. I was wondering if you might be due for steering stem bearing replacement on your bike, based on it's current mileage? It might also be a good time to upgrade to the new tapered roller style bearings while you are at it. :icon_think:

Just what those Florida blue hairs need to see in their rear view while driving . A blinding ball of white light quickly approaching :icon_shocked: . You want 'em to think that their end is near, and have a stroke or something!!!???