dissolvedego
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Posts posted by dissolvedego
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How many miles on your bike? Is it the origional chain? (you can tell if all the rivets look the same then it's the factory chain). I just replaced my stock chain at 22K miles. The rear sprocket was fine. The front had slight wear so I replaced it.
31k miles. i'm assuming it's not the original chain... it was on the bike when i bought it at 28k miles.
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it's at the replace line too..... maybe i should. how much can i expect to pay to have the chain and sprockets replaced? $300?
Do it yourself for 210$
thanks for the link... is it worth $35 extra to get anodized alloy as opposed to steel in the rear sprocket?
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it's at the replace line too..... maybe i should. how much can i expect to pay to have the chain and sprockets replaced? $300?
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The adjuster nuts should be tightened...backed out counter clockwise, after the alignment is set and the axle torqued...The bolts themselves are not necessarily adjusted equal...it's the marks on the swingarm that are supposed to line up with the Axle bracket??
Backing the adjuster nuts out after everything is set will help keep the wheel alignment set. Especially during hard accelleration, the chain is trying to pull the wheel forward.
the marks on the swingarm are slightly uneven when i compare the right and left sides.
so should i just make sure they're even when i adjust the chain? i heard somewhere that it doesn't really matter if they're even or not, that it depends on how it was alligned or something. :icon_think:
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Describe "loose"?
They are actually bolts that are adjusted in/out of the metal bracket that the axel goes through, if it's not snug you may have one thats stripped out and its not adjusting the way it should.
It shouldn't be Hercules tight but shouldn't be sloppy loose.
i can turn it with my fingers, if i recall correctly, about half a turn in either direction.
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ok most of this makes sense... but there's still a couple things i don't understand.
one of the adjuster nuts on my bike is loose (you can move it with your fingers), the other is tight. this is with the axle nut tightened (i haven't messed with it, yet). aren't the adjuster nuts supposed to be equal to eachother? how can i turn them equally if one of them has been floating around?
do the adjuster nuts effect anything with the axle nut tightened? i would guess not. should i just tighten the loose one before i loosen the axle nut, and turn them both equally from there?
and i know i probably shouldn't even ask, but what should i use to clean the chain? *ducks*
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gah. so it seems honda fucked up and most blackbirds will eventually be full of vibes. i keep hearing the same thing, which matches my experience... vibes from 2 through 4k rpm, smooth as silk at 5, and then back to the vibes at 7. i'd be pissed if i didn't get such a good deal on my 'bird.
hrmmm... so, what are the vibes like on a busa/zx-12/zx-14? do they have similar issues, or are they even smooth to begin with?
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for what it's worth, i just changed my oil w/ mobil 1 15w50, and that seems to have cut the vibrations down significantly.
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I ended up buying the $8 Honda oil filter remover thingy. It's saving me 30min. an oil change by not having to remove any plastic!
how does that work exactly????????? i bought one too, and there isn't enough room behind the headers to even fit the socket wrench and oil filter screw. this is driving me crazy, all i want to do is change the damn oil... :icon_wall:
EDIT: ok nevermind... a normal wrench seems to work just fine.
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Starting a little bit last year and much more so this year my engine is starting to vibrate like a normal I-4. Numb hands and everything. I tried the usual and my only thoughts are the power commander that smoothed it out so much when the bike was new is going out. Other than that, is this what happens when you pass 30,000 miles?
my bird is just past 30k, and it vibrates more than it should, especially in the 4-5k rpm range. it won't make my hands numb, and it doesn't vibrate nearly as much as my FJ1200, but for a blackbird it is a lot. kind of upsetting at first, but it's still smoother than most liter bikes so i'm ok with it.
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ok semi-related question:
is it necessary to remove the lower cowling to change the filter? i'm lazy.
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since no one responded to me about this in my thread-
how can you tell if you've got air in the clutch line? what are the consequences?
i saw lots of tiny bubbles when i bled the clutch, not sure if they were already in there or if it was leaking through the seal of the bleeder hose. either way... should i be concerned? the clutch operates smoothly and everything feels fine.
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Pipe.
Counterclockwise.
do you mean put a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage?
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i've never adjusted a chain in my life, but i understand the procedure.
anyways, i found my chain to have excess slack, so i checked the shop manual and it seemed simple enough. loosen the axle nut and turn the adjusting bolts until the chain is in slack. easy.
then i discovered that for the life of me there was no way i could budge the axle nut. i also noticed that the right adjusting bolt is quite loose, whereas the left one is almost as difficult to turn as the axle nut.
is it possible that the last person to adjust the chain on this bike fucked up? should the axle nut be give-yourself-a-hernia-trying-to-unscrew-it tight? should the adjusting bolts (or one of them in this case) be loose while the axle nut is tight as a motherfucker?
i know these are noob questions but they're too specific to my bike to be covered in a previous thread.
thanks.
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ok the rain finally stop for a minute so i did it today. i ran into a couple complications.
first, the clamp that came with the brake bleeding tube was fucking impossible to get all the way around the bleed valve. 20 minutes just trying to get that damn thing on, and the best i could do was to get it partially on. it became apparent that this was the best it was going to get without some kind of special tool.
so, while bleeding the clutch i noticed little air bubbles running through the tube. it's hard to tell if they were coming from the clutch line or the opening of the tube where the clamp wasn't quite on, but there were tiny air bubbles going through the tube from beginning to end.
aside from that (which was a bit disturbing), i finished up and rode around for a while. the clutch operates as it should, and if anything feels more smooth than it did before.
if there were significant air bubbles in the system, what difference would it make exactly? would it effect the functioning of the clutch?
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*smacks forehead*
I just realized the reason my search was unsuccessful was that i searched "flush" instead of "bleed". oopsies.
Step one should be remove all the old fluid from the res. and fill with fresh fluid.
:icon_think: you mean use something to suck it out of the top? is that really necessary?
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The clutch fluid is amber, and now that the weather is getting nice I want to flush it out before I really start riding again.
Is there anything I should know before I attempt it? I have a basic brake flushing system (tube with one-way check valve).
My understanding is that I need to:
1) pump the clutch several times and hold it in before letting any fluid out
2) loosen the screw until fluid enters the tube
3) tighten the nut before releasing the clutch and repeat steps 1-3 until the fluid passes the valve
4) pump the clutch to drain the fluid while filling the reservoir to make sure no air gets in.
Does that sound about right?
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argh... ok, problem solved. and i feel dumb as hell.
upon closer inspection i noticed that the fluid was actually leaking in a small area on the back of the reservoir, then dripping down and around making its way to the piston seals, etc., giving the appearance that it was leaking from that area.
the cause? the rubber seal was folded inward in one spot, allowing fluid to leak. :roll: :oops:
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I will add that, I also had an '85 700S, and never had this problem, and nobody I have ever heard of has ever had this problem either bike and you've had the problem with both... At this point, I guess my question is: what do you clean that area of the bike with?? Some cleaners will eat rubber... Did you accidently spray grip glue, or some other solvent on the rubber boot or something??
Mike
honda pro spray cleaner & polish is all i've ever used... i'm pretty sure that's safe on everything (i use it on my desk, computer and tv too). maybe i just have strange luck?
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Sounds like its the o-ring on your plunger and if so you need to replace it before it lets go. You should be able to just order a replacment from your dealer,its probably a kit. Try this link
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/fr_...580&parent=5570
thanks... looks like the piston set is what i need. right?
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You brake lever has fluid in it? :scratchhead:
Your experience aside, this is not a common problem. Where exactly is the fluid coming from?
it appears to be coming from the base of the lever where it pivots, underneath the reservoir (but the reservoir cap is not leaking). this same exact thing happened with my nighthawk, so i'm surprised it's not common.
it's also hard to tell exactly where it originates because when i'm riding little drops of fluid fly everywhere (which is why it concerns me).
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i had this same problem on my 85 nighthawk 700. the brake lever keeps oozing out fluid with use and the little droplets are getting on the plastic dangerously close to the tank. i never had this problem with my yamaha.
is there a quick fix for this, or is it just a patented honda trademark (like clunky transmissions)?
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There's significant clutch basket noise at an idle that goes away when the clutch gets pulled in. If these noises go away with pulling in the clutch, or increasing the RPM, and sound like kerchunks or quiet taps with a large hammer, that's probably normal.
ok i think that's what it is. it was just louder the other night than usual... now i'm thinking it was probably there all along, just quiet enough that i didn't notice it. i think it also happens when releasing the clutch in gear, but it's hard to tell because i'm usually giving it some throttle at that point, or distracted by the bike's movement.
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hDoes the noise go away when the clutch is pulled in?yes... it's like when i let the clutch out in neutral it goes partially into gear and starts grinding.
i've noticed it only seems to happen in low rpms... if i rev high the noise goes away... but that first rev off of idle is like "K-K-K-KLLACK!". it seems quieter now... maybe it had something to do with the cold weather?
2000 Titanium bird in Berkeley, CA - $4500
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Excellent condition-
Brand new rear tire and cam chain tensioner, Corbin 'gunfighter and lady' seat, chain and sprockets relatively new (about 2-3k miles of use), registration paid through through May 2008, 32k miles. This bike is very clean.
There are no known mechanical problems whatsoever and I have taken very good care of it, garage-kept and covered, serviced regularly, etc. The ONLY time this bike has ever been on it's side was in a parking lot at 0mph. It had just rained and when I attempted to put her on the center stand my boot slipped and she toppled over, so there are some light scratches on the fairing on the right side (see picture below), and that is the extent of the damage.
and pics:
asking $4500 O.B.O.