Redbird

Damn, I was close with my off the top of my head guess :grin:

Well, 17 inches plus 110% of 180mm will get you close. I've got it real close to 25 inches, but don't know the exact conversion for inches to mm off hand. Basically, it's 17" + 198mm.

Saddlesore 1000. You did one last year, if you recall.....

Uneven wearing of the tread blocks, often causing little concave areas on the tire. You can often feel it by running your hand over the tire before it's readily apparent visibly. The lower the pressure you run, the more likely you'll see it happen.

ET'99XX, Click on link, scroll down- second post from the bottom as I type this- http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5599

Don't bother. Mine's on it's fourth or fifth re-use with no leaks. I'll probably replace it this year just to be safe, but I'm not losing any sleep over it.

Not a stupid question at all. Yes, it will. I thought that treatment was reserved for show only type vehicles. I would guess that with the heat and friction involved it may not last long in any case. Regardless, it all looks great

Warren, do a search on "overheating" "waterwetter" or "temperature" and you'll find plenty of reading, but in short, there's nothing wrong with your bike. They all run a bit hot, but reports of actual overheating are rare.

Randy's (BDAZXX) pipes are Renegades. Couldn't tell you about availability. They do look nice, don't they :cool:

I usually flush really well with distilled water, button it up, add the appropriate amount of straight coolant ('bout half a gallon for 50/50) and Waterwetter (4oz.) for the ratio I want then top of with distilled water. You'll never get all the fluid out of the system, so short of flushing with water/antifreeze in the ratio you want, this is the only way to get the ratio just right that I've thought of. Setting the level on the reserve tank is made easier by pulling the overflow hose off the nipple by the radiator cap and holding or taping it about level with the fill line- just above the lower front edge of the rear cowl, if memory serves. Fill the resevoir until it comes out the hose, re-attach the hose. Don't forget the drain plug on the cylinder block

Don't know about a dash shelf, but you can find cockpit mounts here www.saeng.com and here www.stemstand.com . The center and left mounts are Saeng, the right from Stemstand- Screen is a Givi.

Did you read the whole post? I also saw improvement when running with coolant. Regardless, let's say you want to take advantage of the greater cooling properties of straight distilled water. You going to want some sort of additive for inhibiting corrosion and taking care of the seals on your water pump, Waterwetter is at least good for this if you refuse to believe it's good for anything else. Straight water would be a bad idea, so I'll leave that little experiment to you :wink:

Neatsfoot oil, available at most shoe repair or leather shops. Wipe it on, allow it to soak in overnight, wipe off any excess. Doesn't leave the leather at all greasy or oily as the name might imply. It will darken (as in stain) lighter, unfinished leather.

50/50 antifreeze/distilled water with Watewetter in the fall-winter-spring, straight distilled water with Waterwetter in the summer. This is the only reason it gets changed twice a year. I try to do at least one or two trackdays every summer, so I don't run coolant. I know they don't check, but I don't want to be the guy who spreads coolant all over the track and cancels a session or two for everyone. The bike is stored in an unheated garage in winter, so it has to have antifreeze then. I've been stuck in traffic on 95-100 degree days with both combos and never seen over 235 degrees on the temp gauge since using Waterwetter. Before going with Waterwetter I can think of three occasions when I had to pull off the road or overheat (250degrees, for those with the analog dash). Even if you do think it's "snake oil", it's only six or seven bucks for a bottle that will go for three coolant changes, so it's not like it costs a fortune to try it for yourself.

Have you ever tried WaterWetter? Doesn't sound like it. I know from personal experience the shit works as advertised. I saw a drop in peak temperature of about 15-20 degrees and a drop in running temperature of 5-10 degrees. My Radiator also gets flushed twice a year, so don't tell me I was just seeing the results of fresh coolant. Can I explain how it works to someone who has already decided it doesn't without checking it out themselves? - no Just my $.02, based on actual experience :grin:

So am I :roll: It's just taking me a little longer than some- 34 years and counting :razz:

Why, whatever are you talking about, Peter? I'd never make a silly mistake like that :razz: PS- Wetter is spelled with two Ts :poke: :grin:

It' one ounce per quart, dammit, that cap holds less than half an ounce. Keep reading :grin:

There's a little short of six gallons usable for the FI bikes, and yes, the light comes on way early. I wish I was getting 37mpg. I average in the low 30s. The higher state of tune would explain the difference between the XX and your Sprint as much as the displacment, a hundred and thirty some odd horsepower is gonna cost at the pump, evn if you're not always using it.

There's a short length of rubber hose going from the master cylinder on the bar down to the headstock, where it's connected to a steel hard line that runs along the frame down to another short length of rubber line that's attached to the slave cylinder. At a guess I'd say the hard steel line is about 2/3 the total length. Even if it were all rubber the gains would be almost undetectable, IMO.

I have a braided steel clutch line, and I can tell you it's solely for looks. If I hadn't delinked and gone to braided brake lines I wouldn't have bothered, but I wanted them to match. So if you're talking about some kind of upgrade to your clutch (feel, pressure- whatever) don't bother, the majority of the stock line is already steel anyway.

Given the two choices, I definitely say chain. Any kinks or stiff spots in it?

My '95 Chevy 4x4 had the rotors pressed onto the hub, you had to remove the entire hub assembly and then take it in and have the rotor pressed off, and the new one pressed on. Real PITA, and I wouldn't do it myself again, I'd take it in. So the question that need answering is are the rotors pressed on? If not, it's gravy, like Joe said.

Just so no one gets confused, there's no need to re-pack the stock cans.

Valves are shims and buckets and not too prone to going out of ajustment. Don't know about the cam chain other than mine was never a problem. Exhaust leak? Mine did that before I installed a 4-1 and replaced the gaskets. Loudish ticking or clicking type noise that blended in with the rest of the motor noise when you wound it up a bit.