BackStreet

2 years - no. 5 to 6 years old - perhaps. Older then that - yes. Especially if not stored indoors and ridden a few hundred miles / year. Tire technology advances too.

I have some scratches in black plastic. I went over them with a black sharpie and they hardly show.

Do you want my 2003 stock one? I'll send it to you. It was working fine when I took it out 3 weeks ago. Hell, if it was not raining I could drop it off tonight.

The stock regulator for '01 and up is 50psi. The '99 and '00 were 43psi, I believe. how bad would it be to have installed an '01 50 psi in a '99? Revised injector flow,or fuel flow will equal to the square root of 50/43 X whatever injector flows on 43 psi of pressure,basically it will increase by about 8%. Your motor will run 8% richer everywhere,whether there is need for it or not. So, if motor was at 14.7 AFR at given load and rpms it`ll change to about 13.6, etc,.Basically you would be wasting fuel.It is like tunning swiss,mechanical watch with impact wrench. I would not try to fix mixture problems at certain loads/rpm by changing FPR only.Now ,FPR and Power Commander and such that it different story.But if already have power commander you don't need different FPR to change mixture . Basically higher fuel pressures are used if your injectors are maxed out and you need little more flow from them. Other then that there is no real point in bumping your fuel pressure on normally aspirated motor. "So, if" is the operative part of this. We have 10% ethanol so I'm not so sure the AFR is perfect to start with. Pipes and air filter change AFR also usually leaner. I think '03 all US has a knock sensor and an O2 sensor so I would think the overall system would reduce any extra fuel. Power Commander just overrides the system usually adding more fuel. Stan indicated better spray with more pressure too. This could explain better performance all over and not just at the full open. No impact wrench required.

Mine is an '03 and there was nothing wrong with the stock FPR but it runs better with the Turbo City one.

Well I am running a sheet and keeping a running total, but, I am not too eager to hang someones laundry in public. I do have a lot of time in it, but only half or so in work. But, just to give you the major things: Getting it here turned out to be a bitch, and maybe a day of time,,,10 hours. I had gotten a huge break from Yellow freight, 75% off in a promotion phone call just before we were to send it. Great, lets set it up from his end with my info and company info. I had just shipped the same weight from the same area for 200. That make this cheap, right. More than 2 dozen phone calls and it still was more and was going on more than a month after delivery. Tear down clean and inspect. Bout a day. order parts another day. deliver parts to machine shop another day. Why, well got to count and bag and box and load and deliver and unbox unbag and recount and spec work.( I normally unbag and count everything, but did not the new parts so they would not get lost, was a mistake) I don't do things like normal. My clearances and requirements are from 40 years of building race only engines and have a particullar way I want it done. Only a few will do it my way. And most don't have the tools that I require. Three weeks later he had the tools to do the work, but, took another three weeks to get it done. Dozen calls. Bore job done so go and get the block. 1/2 day check bore to pistons and clearance and start filing and fitting rings to the bore is a good day work....wasted , see above, rings were the wrong set sent. Valve job done, go and pickup, and start the port work. Takes two days to get it like I wanted. Clean and get ready to assemble. See above. ( spend a good day looking for a valve spring height guage and spring pressure gauge to use on these heads. There aint one. no one make one and no one knows what to do about it. Now ain't that a kick in the nuts.) Tomek posted a cool tool to assemble valves on these motors, and was going to get it, but only good for 40 lb and lower. these are 60 seat presure. I could not find a spring compresor for a motocycle engine in all of this area. So I make one. Another day down. got another day in the rods and piston problem with assembly and machine work and hand work. So what is that? It's good to see someone who counts 10 hours as a day. In your days I got 11 1/2. For government work, I'd call that 11.5 * 10 / 8 = 15 days.

I'm fascinated. The only reason I change my own oil once a year is that it takes longer to go to the shop. Any estimates of what has been spent so far in parts and hours of your time? Just a round number guess would be fine.

"... a little moist on the road the front wheel locked up..." Pouring rain can be better than a little moist for traction. A little wet can turn dust and oil into a mix "slick as baby $hit". I like Dunlop and will try Qualifier II soon as I burn my 3 month old Qualifier off. I have 3000 miles on them now.

+1 Ron Ayers list 2, one is $39 and the other $43 for OEM. I kins of balked at the price too. But, Stan recommended them highly, so I went for it. Question for those who have swapped one out-do you need to replace any gaskets or o-rings? Nothing else to replace. Just unhook the lines, plug the feed line, unscrew the old one, screw in the new one, hook up the lines. I balked at the price too. But, since Stan recommends them highly, I went for it. Quality :: Performance :: Price Pick any two! I took a longer ride today and the bike performs better in almost all circumstances. I was on the throttle a lot so I'll get back to you on mpg. Someday.

I thought they raised the pressure some to add a little more fuel or get a better spray. I expected the fuel mileage to drop but hopefully not too much.

I just installed a new Turbo City Fuel Pressure Regulator and the improvement is dramatic. She runs better than new, smoother and seemingly faster. Nothing was wrong with the old regulator. The bike has almost 20,000 miles on a 2003. I read somewhere (could have been here - did a search with no luck) that a new regulator is a must for modified engine and helps with a stock engine. My main mods are E-10 premium 10% Ethyl Alcohol (not by choice) and drilled stock cans. Enough to make it run rather lean. I don't have a PCIII. A little extra fuel should help. I'll have to see what the fuel mileage is. The install is easy. Lift the rear of the tank and it is on the right end of the fuel rail. Takes 15 min. If you are near empty that helps. Fuel comes out of the return hose.

So, how did it go? Do you think they just import the parts from China? Where was it shipped from?

Installing pads I open the bleeders to compress the slave cylinders. So indirectly, installing pads gets the air out. When you make two changes at once, you can't measure the effect of each.

For anyone who does not know, Dave has a gift for customizing motorcycles with the best available parts. The end product is in every way better than stock. I would also trust Dave to break in a bike for me more than my weak and throttle happy self. Oh, and the polish. Forgetaboutit.

Bleed the brake lines. All my Hondas had some air in the lines even when new. You may feel like you installed SS lines. I have a theory that the main effect of changing to SS lines or HH pads is you get the air out of the system. My low cost method to bleed the brakes: Wait for a dry day as the fluid will absorb water from the air. If you are going to change the fluid, get a big can of fresh fluid, some clear fuel line, and a turkey baster. Take the turkey baster and remove the fluid from the master cylinder. Fill with new fluid. Pour slowly and do not create bubbles. If you do get some, wait till they pop. Don't shake the can of fluid. Work the lever and watch for bubbles. I had a good sized one. You may want to empty the master cylinder again to remove dirt. Attach the hose to one bleeder at a time with the hose going up above the slave cylinder and into a waste bottle (I use an old water bottle). The fluid should drain from the master down through the slave and up into the waste. Don't let the master get dry or you have to start over. Once the fluid runs clear pump some fluid through to remove any last air bubble and close the bleeder. After a week or so do a mini bleed. Attach the hose and bottle, open the bleeder, and pump a little fluid through. Watch for bubbles.

What HID bulbs work in the Blackbird? I have been thinking of swapping mine out. H7 but I could not use the base which helps hold our bulbs in place. What did other people do? Make sure you are getting the slim starters. One place sent me the large ones but there is room. I went with the 35w which throws a huge amount of light and should be easier on the rectifier. BTW I only took off the wind screen, the trim plastics, and the top speedo nut. High and low take an hour. Red wire went to green on a 2003. Don't confuse the sockets; high and low look the same. 4300K bulb look very white without the blue or purple color.

WERA does not sponsor track days, although it is club racing, WERA is a for-profit business. Why would they want to underwrite insurance for track days? Yes, I know the AMA is more than a racing organization, but again why would they want to underwrite insurance for track days. The track day orgs will not underwrite insurance for people that ride with them, whether it is NESBA ( a non-profit club) or STT ( a for-profit business). Again why would businesses with no vested interest in track days do this when the entities that are directly involved in track day activities will not? How would this help their bottom line? If they thought it would make money they would do it. PADI, NRA, and AOPA do it for people who participate in those activities. Rutgers University sells professional disability insurance. I guess they have their reasons.

Let me add the books I've read (not insurance). Sport Riding Techniques by Nick Ienatsch is my favorite. Total Control by Lee Parks is good. Twist of the Wrist but I not a fan of Keith Code mostly because I find him annoying.

They are both racing organizations. Why would they do that? That's one of the major benefits that drive memberships to organizations like PADI, NRA, AOPA. WERA and other local organizations sponsors track days and has an interest in promoting track riding as a feeder to amateur racing. I just found WERA does already provide "limited excess accident insurance (while racing)." The AMA is much more than a racing organization. They promote motorcycling in general, lobby on behalf of bikers, sponsor all types of events, provide roadside assistance to members, etc. From Wikipedia: "The American Motorcyclist Association is an American not-for-profit organization of more than 300,000 motorcyclists that organizes numerous motorcycling activities and campaigns for motorcyclists' legal rights. With the AMA mission statement being "To protect and promote the interests of motorcyclists while serving the needs of its members." The organization was founded in 1924 and now has more than 1,200 chartered clubs, who ride on- and off-road and on the track. In 2009 the AMA is celebrating its 85th anniversary. For clubs and promoters it provides guidance and advice on running events and rallies, and allows affiliated members to vote on AMA matters. It also has a corporate membership category with representatives from the US motorcycle industry."

NJ auto/bike insurance works just like workman's comp which (just as you say) does not go to your health insurance. Right at the ER they will ask you if your were hurt at work or in an auto accident. BTW - Your $5000 PIP is a token amount to pay for your deductible and co-payments, a broken arm, a few stitches, etc. Sorry my comments turned into an insurance thread. PADI covers Scuba divers. NRA covers gun owners. The AMA or WERA should cover Track Days.

Buddy, if you think being told you're wrong is a "personal attack", you'd better strap in, it gets way worse around here. Thus far all you've done in this thread is tell a bunch of guys with extended experience doing a certain thing you've never done (but hey, you watched once, right?) how that certain thing works and how unsafe it is. I'll ask again, what's your advice for the original poster if you don't recommend taking it to the track? Or are you just in this thread to advise us all on what our insurance will and won't cover? OK Buddy and I never said it was unsafe. Go in slow - come out fast. Happy now?

HIDs are supposed to last so long they may outlive your bike. >3000 hours * 50 miles / hour = 150,000 miles.

Just a motor vehicle injury goes back to your own auto/bike insurance and all your medical bills are paid without a deductible. The dollar limit on a cheap policy is $250,000. "The term "no-fault" auto insurance is often used loosely to denote any auto insurance program that allows policyholders to recover financial losses from their own insurance company, regardless of fault. ...The first party (policyholder) benefit coverage is known as personal injury protection (PIP). " "These "no-fault" states include Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Kansas, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Pennsylvania, and Utah."

You won't reply, but you seem to have no issue getting the ball rolling. What personal insults were directed at you before you went after me? As far as "debate", this is a public discussion forum. If you don't care to have your opinion challenged, start a blog. Otherwise, you may occasionally find yourself in the position of having to defend your opinions. I can totally respect all that, everyone has to weigh the risks and make certain choices for themselves. But the original poster was obviously interested in learning to go 'round corners a bit faster. That's never going to be completely safe by most's definition, but the best and safest place to do that is at the track. If you disagree, that's fine, just tell me where you think would be safer instead of telling me to go pound sand. I did not say insult but I quoted exactly what I took as personal.

Mike, I think you have a reasonable but un-informed view. Track days are considered skill enhancement. They are very controlled but accidents happen everywhere. EMT's are right on it and it is very rare that anyone is so injured they never ride again or die. I am very surprised to see you take this safety position after we were at Deal's Gap. Your front was so shagged, I'm amazed you road that back to NY. I would not have left town with a tire that way but I'm sure it didn't look that when you left NY. This just goes to show, everyone has a different view of safe/unsafe. To each his own. I was not going to post because it was just turning into personal attacks to which I won't reply. Nor do I care to "debate"; I gave my opinion, take it or leave it. As you say "To each his own." Yes my front tire was worn but it was not stripped down the middle or have cords showing and I took the risk. I'm not afraid of risk. I'm not even afraid of death. Serious injury, pain, long hospital stays, huge medical bills - OK, I'm a little afraid BUT on the street I have insurance for all that. I am informed. NJ is a "no fault" state. I know my medical insurance did not cover injury resulting from the operation of any motor vehicle. I got a discount for that. My auto or bike insurance is supposed to cover that but they limit it to "normal use ... on public motorways" and they exclude "racing". If I ride a dirt bike in a sand pit I'm not covered. If I ride a motorcycle on a race track as far as I can tell I'm not covered. I did not read my various life insurance policies but I recall they asked if I scuba dived, hot air ballooned, flew a plane or glider, operated a watercraft, or rode a motorcycle. When I put yes for all those thing they asked did I race and I said no. My guess is they either would not have insured me, would have excluded racing, or would have charged me more money. I do have a lot of responsibilities. Many of us do. I can't risk everything to learn how to corner better. Me - I'm not too good - I read a book.