BackStreet

HIDs work fine as a highbeam. If you have not turned it on in a while it takes a few seconds to get bright. If you had the light on a few miles ago, it comes on bright and fast. In the day time it works great for getting minivans to pull over and let you go by.

Incidentally, Sylvania will replace a burned out bulb up to one year old. All I had to do was fax my receipt. I think they will take a burned out bulb too.

Hmm, the text says "antilock brakes". I didn't realize the '02 had those... :icon_think: I don't think he knows the difference between "Linked" and "Antilock" but it looks like a nice LOW mileage bike. It also looks like he put the same picture in the ad twice. His loss is your gain for 5000 miles for $4500. He may even take $4000 cash in hand.

Does anyone know what length of line is needed to go directly from the master cylinder to each side caliper? I have Heli Bars and the stock lines are already tight.

"BTW - In classical mechanics, work is not done on a body in a straight line at constant speed (body in motion stays in motion unless acted upon by a force). The distance they are talking about is a force applied at a distance like one pound at a distance of one foot (a foot pound of torque) not 37 miles down a level highway in a given time. >>>Bullshit; if I may be so rude. The work perfomed to overcome the aero drag IS a certain force for whatever distance we are talking about (37 miles or 37 feet, doesn't matter ) The force is variable, greater with higher speed as a rule of course. You seem to be confusing torque ( a force ) which is often measured in foot-pounds, with work which is measured by force times distance, i.e pound-feet. Let me explain; imagine hanging a weight of 200 lbs from a socket wrench handle with a ten foot pipe attached, this will apply torque until something turns." Why throw in "bullshit" if you misread what I was trying to explain asshole. I WAS explaining FORCE as in "acted upon by a force" and gave an example of 1 ft pound of torque (something we would all know). I was gearing up to explain work and power but thought better of it. You actually did a pretty good job. BTW - I got almost 50mpg on a cold foggy night going across PA doing 70-80mph. The bike ran perrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrfect. "Everything has been explained in this thread,nothing to add,if interested just read from the beginng ,,,,,,," Read it again just to be sure, all I got out of it is: Tampa likes soup a little thicker than Steamboat Springs.

In science you know you develop a theory and then test it. Keeping the other factors the same (this is the hard part), you change the altitude and measure the mpg. BTW - In classical mechanics, work is not done on a body in a straight line at constant speed (body in motion stays in motion unless acted upon by a force). The distance they are talking about is a force applied at a distance like one pound at a distance of one foot (a foot pound of torque) not 37 miles down a level highway in a given time. In our imperfect world, there is work done in overcoming friction (engine, chain, tires, etc.) and drag (small at 55mph to huge at 155mph). There is also inefficiencies in the engine especially at low throttle setting that sap mpg that may change at altitude even more than drag does. You may be able to calculate it all, but back to the original point, you would still have to measure it to see if you were correct so why not just measure and forget all the theories and calculations?

Old trick but a goodie - start the engine at night and in the dark see if it is sparking anywhere. I've seen sparks around the coil, distributor (if you had one), and between plug wires or to ground. Even if there are no sparks, that will tell you the wires etc. are OK.

I would try Engine Ice or Redline Water Wetter and water to keep the engine running cooler as long as the temp does not go below freezing (add antifreeze as needed). Your temp while moving will come down to 180-185. My thermostat opens at about 182. At start up I'll see the temp build to 182 and drop a few times as the cold mix in the radiator gets into the engine the first few times. I run 50/50 plus 1/2 bottle of Water Wetter. At speeds over 50mph when the temp is around 50F my temp will stay in the 180-185 range. In traffic, at 222 or so the fans comes on and it shuts off at 210. I try and keep moving and normally my fans do not come on. PS: I good thing about synthetic oil is the viscosity stays more consistent over a wider temperature range.

The reason I bought a Honda is they have the best dealership in the area. I went and talked to the service manager. He showed me the service area. The mechanics are all certified and nice guys. I'm sure they can fix any problem. When my 600RR was stolen, they vouched for me that the bike was in prime condition and properly serviced right at the dealership. I got my check as soon as the 30 day waiting period was up. They got me a full refund on the extended warranty too. I used the money to buy a slightly used VFR which I was not happy with. 6 months later they gave me all I paid for the bike for a trade in on a new Blackbird (which saves $450 in sales tax if I sold it myself). I'm sorry most of you seem to have missed out on the whole bike shop experience. That used to be where we went to talk bikes prior to forums. You might even get a doughnut and a cup of coffee - free. A few guys might meet up and go for a ride. Stop in if you are in the area. Burger's Motorcycles http://www.burgersmotorcycles.com/ 749 U.S. 202 Flemington, NJ 08822 (908) 782-2020

I had a piece of 30amp copper wire go through my new tire this year. I came out and found the tire flat. I asked at Washington Cycle in NJ who I trust with my life and they said no way. They will not even patch a tire if asked. I checked the Dunlap web site and they said a max two patches I think 90 degrees apart at a certified repair facility with a long list of don'ts. http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/infocenter...etips.asp?id=30

See how much current the HIDs draw. Most are 35W. They draw more on startup. If that is OK, I suggest you run a new hot wire and have the switch circuit work a relay.

Still get your ass kicked by a turbo 'Busa. Just sayin', when you go turbo you are going to be measured against other turbo bikes. I always tell myself to lose 50lbs to add more hp. That and a 4 into 1 exhaust full system, remove center stand, keep the fuel low, and you are a lot lighter. I like the TurboCity.com fuel pressure regulator. I went with a 17/47 sprocket set. Already you are a lot quicker and less prone to be caught flat footed. There are some dropin cams to add some more HP. That is as far as I would go. On the street you can then hang with them big boys. I had a VFR too. When I wanted to go faster, I bought a Blackbird. So simple, anyone can do it.

I have a few questions: Do you recommend putting dielectric grease in your connectors? Not normally, I prefer to keep them clean and visible for inspection, grease obscures your view. For something around salt spray, grease would be good to have. Does someone make a spray cleaner that you could follow with a spray protective grease for electric connectors? Lots of spray cleaners out there, but nothing that will take off corrosion like a file or sandpaper (or shall I say, coated abrasives) . I don't think that any cleaner would be incompatible with applying grease later. Is there a spray dielectric grease safe for low voltage ECU multi-pin connections? I have no knowledge of spray greases. However, there is nothing special about the ECU connections, the same considerations apply to all connections. The only relevant difference is that some ECU wiring is high impedance, meaning that a weak short or leakage, like from water, will effect the voltage on these circuits whereas the same leakage would not matter on any other normal circuits like ignition, lights, starter, alternator. Thanks!

I have a few questions: Do you recommend putting dielectric grease in your connectors? Does someone make a spray cleaner that you could follow with a spray protective grease for electric connectors? Is there a spray dielectric grease safe for low voltage ECU multi-pin connections?

Yes

If the kill switch trips the lights still stay lit so I don't think its that. Battery connection is easy to clean so you may as well and eliminate that. Sounds to me like a bad ignition switch but you may as well clean the connections first as another no cost option. BTW - the bikes is not overheating is it? There is a thermal cut off at 240F to protect the engine. I don't know if it cuts all power.

These birds are geared so high to begin that I would not consider going to an 18. I always like a OEM front for the vibration/shock absorption so I went with a 47 tooth rear. Right away the bike pulls harder in each gear. The gears are closer together. The drop in RPM is less so you don't drop out of the power band. I don't have to clunk down into first to pull out of a tight corner and get all twitchy. You also have some safety power on tap on the highway without going down a gear or two. The gas mileage is about the same.

With the MRA Vario Touring windshield and Heli bars, I found that when I stand up with my head above the windshield, my helmet is a lot more quiet than sitting down, so that means the windshield was directing the wind right at my helmet. I found the same thing, the stock screen had less wind noise because you are in clean air. I could duck below the screen in bad weather and rest on the tank bag.

Perhaps you don't need to replace, just add Grip Puppies.

With the CBR 900 shock, does the ride height come out close to stock? Can you still put a 6mm shim? With the shock installed and the bike on the center stand, how far off the ground is the rear tire?

Just put it out to the curb and it will be gone in no time.

This bike just keeps getting sweeter!

John, Thanks for the fast shipping. I bought the CCT just to have a spare but there it was at my door. Actually, I think I'm going to put the new one on and keep the one with 20K as the spare. Why wait for something to go wrong 1000 miles from home? Thanks. PS To complete your BB product line how about : http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=573

So, what is the final tally on hours and parts? Is she in and running?

Some guy in South Africa lost his HISS key and can't get a new one there. Does anyone have a 2001 or compatable ECU and/or an ignition switch w key(s). I'll broker the deal no charge and ship them to SA if that helps.