sykotek-xx

Yeah got the coil going. And I have FI but I have the same plumbing, a hose from each TB that all some together before the MAP. Test drove it, got to 60 and hit set. Stayed at 60. Not 59, not 61, 60mph. Perfect, and don't need the canister either. Thanks for the reply! Steve

Well it's not the black one. It's the blue/yellow one. I just tried it on the other wire and the cruise works.

Would look strange strapped to the bike. I was thinking along the lines of somewhere on the intake......

And to think I thought that quick reply was going to be something insightful. I should have known. Got the crusie all installed, just gotta make it work now. Took pics. It was a bitch. Thanks again!

Hey Jeff, hope you're still around. Just installed this cruise on my bike. I do not have a vacuum accumulator yet. But as it is right now, it does not seem to be engaging at all. Two questions: Where did you tap for vacuum? Which wire on the coil pack did you tap for the blue wire? One is black with a white stripe, the other is a different color on each coil, so I am thinking the black one is the negative. Help! Thanks! Steve

Hooking up the audiovox cruise. Both coils have a black wire with a white stripe. The other wire is a different color from side to side. Which one is negative? I'm thinking the black one. Thanks.

Hooking up the audiovox cruise. What is the best source for vacuum on a FI bike? I am currently tapped in just before the MAP sensor. By the looks of things, this should be pulling vacuum from all 4 cylinders, as there is a hose coming from each TB to a 5 way tee that then goes to the map sensor. But with the bike idling there seems to be barely any vacuum there. Any better places?

Get a canyon dancer, about $25 or so, it's a special slip strap that goes across the handle bars, and the tighter you pull in it the tighter it grabs the bars. Then about four rachet straps, two from the ends of the canyon dancer to the front corners of the trailer, and two from the rear passenger peg mounts to the rear corners of the trialer. Also the bike is at it's most stable on the side stand. Have someone sit on the bike while it is on the side stand on the tralier while you tighten the straps down. this will preload the suspension and when they get off the bike the straps will be even tighter since the springs will attempt to unload. Should get you wherever you need to go. Good luck.

The engine in the XX is hard mounted to the frame, absolutely no rubber isolation, not typical of other bikes. So any noises or clunks are amplified in relation to the same noises or clunks on other bikes. Which is why the clunk seems louder on the XX. Also, what is this clutch thing you all are talking about when shifting?

Dump it in the toilet and then depress the shiny handle on the side of the tank. There are more environmentally sound ways to get rid of it though.

Steering bearings also go from dropping wheelies on the ground to hard. Check for any fork fluid seeping from the seals too.

that is true about the vettes. Maybe they're broken in at the factory? who the hell knows.

I guess with those facts then it's not much of an advantage to warm up the bike. Never looked into the numbers, I just also never minded going for a spirited pre-change warmup spin.

Might be, I was running a stock clutch on the katana but had it worked up nice, stage 3 jet kit, individual cone filters, full stainless yoshi 4>1 race pipe, sprockets, probably why it ended up planted in a guardrail with my dumb ass sliding along behind it. So it may be that the XX has better clutching, stiffer springs. I think that the newer bikes lost a couple clutch plates vs. the old ones so maybe the newer ones wouldn't be as lucky as the older ones. Like I said I had it happen, first hand. Perfectly running bike with virtually no miles, went to synthetic, and it ate the clutch. Never raced just ridden hard.

If I remember correctly, Airborne knows a little something about the perils of leaning the bike side to side in the garage......

You have to look at the SAE seal on the oil. Friction modified oils WILL fuck your clutch in a wet clutch system. You need to stay away from the energy conserving oils. Trust me I've been there. 1999 Katana, 3000 miles, second oil change, went to an energy conserving synthetic (didn't know better, bought whatever was on sale). Clutch immediately started slipping at anything over 3/4 throttle, and had to replace the plates because it continued to slip even after two changes back to striaght Suzuki dyno. Luckily the clutch in a bike is nothing like the clutch in a car, as far as labor. Look at this link, the "ENERGY CONSERVING" wording in the bottom of the SAE circle is what you want to stay away form. http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_Moto...lGuide_2004.pdf

It is a common thing to break in with dino then switch to synthetic. What fact is behind that I cannot quote you because I don't know off the top of my head, but it logically makes sense being that the synthetics lubricate so much more efficiently, and since the bike (and most everything else) comes from the factory with the dino oil what harm does it do running it till the first oil change? I've never heard of the 'don't mix dino and synth' thing. I have never flushed any engine with amything prior to switching, and (knock knock) have never had a problem or noticed any degredation (visible) in the oil after the first or subsequent synthetic changes.

Also page 14 of this PDF has the basic wiring diagram you can use. http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf

Nice bike.

Warm the bike up before hand, then shut it down, wait 15 minutes for oil to collect in pan, then drain. Wil get a better drain that way with the hotter oil. As far as time, no more than 10 minutes is necessary. As said, pop the plug, then go do something else like check fluids or get drunk, then come back to it. If you watch it drain it takes longer.

Any standard 30A auto relay will work. But if the new relay still fails, are you sure that the trigger wire and all other wires to the relay are good? All you need is this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=330-070 Standard relay, used for everything and anything. One wire to batt, one wire to lights, one wire to ground and one wire to on/off switch. Cake.

How about a bigger pic of that bike?

Screw degreeing the stockers, you got em out already, time for some race cams!

Maybe a dumb suggestion, but are you totally stopped when engaging 4hi? My dad's Sonoma 4X4 (same truck) does the same thing (blinky blinky) if you 'accidentally' hit the 4hi button at, oh, 45mph or so on the hwy.

Another note, Of course moving the plate means no more plate light. What I did was, on the bottom of the tail light there is a brown plastic plate. It looks as if they were thinking of making it a plate light but then blocked it off. I was able to knock this brown plate out of the bottom of the tail light and replace it with a piece of thin clear plastic (piece of soda bottle ) which I epoxied in place. It allows the brake light to also function as plate illumination. With a bike like this, no need to give them any additional reasons to pull you over.