sykotek-xx

Interesting. I still have all the HW from the kit, maybe if we get a cold snap I'll tear it down and see about reworking it they way you did.

Speaking of a tight packing....

Where is this store you speak of? There is a place called "Railroad Salvage" in Englishtown on the road to Raceway Park that is very similar to harbor freight. I am no longer allowed to go there.

Turn on the key. Hold down the 'set' button until the clock starts to flash. Then you just hit the set button to set the time. Every time you touch it, you'll advance 1 minute. If you hold it down it will advance 10 minutes at a time. Once you have it set, you turn off the key to lock it in.

Yeah, it did a little. It was either going to rub on that bar you're talking about underneath it, or rub on some rubber hoses on top if it. I figured it was safer to rub on the metal than to wear through the hoses. I also had some thin wall silicone tubing (think of an aquarium air pump) and I tied that around the beads to make the pull smoother. I didn't like that too much, so I ended up tweaking the bracket so there was minimal rubbing on the bar. It now just barely touches when at idle, and once it pulls a little the chain moves up with the rotation of the throttle and doesn't rub. Just mess with it until you get it as good as you can. No problems so far, used it again for about 100 miles today.

What's up with the bar ends? Since day 1, they have been "loose". I put it in quotes because they are not really loose. They spin about 1/8 rotation in the end of the bars, but they will not come out and are as tight as I can get them with a screwdriver. Seems like the rubber clamping part is really tight in the bars, but the actual metal bar end is not, and it moves a little. It's just annoying having them move around when riding. Any way to get this to stop or is it a XX 'feature'?

If I remember right, the brown wire is for the license plate light, and the green ones with colored stripes go to the brake light and running (parking) light. Brown will work fine.

Naah too easy.

Well, probably.... Gotta hit the balance point though.

No sweat.

Last but not least, this is the typ of headphone I was talking about. I just removed the little ear clips to leave just the round speaker and wire. http://www.epinions.com/Sony_MDR_Q22LP_Con...umer_Headphones

Pics: Helmet with wire coming out: Helmet with foam insert removed, can see wires routed: And Finally, the finger is pointing to where the headphone speaker is inside the felt. In this helmet there's a recess near the ears. They fit there nicely and are completely comfortable but still slightly press against the ears for some decent sound: Hope this helps.

Hey Wacko, I got a cheap pair of the headphones that clip on your ears. Not the ones that go in your ears. These are just like 1980's walkman ones, jsut without the big "U" that goes over your head. I pilled out the front foam piece that goes in the helmet (Shoei RF-R) and just stuck the headphones in a hollow section of the foam. I'll get a piuc up here to explain better. $10 and it works great. Just got back from a ride, listening to Stern at 80MPH and it was plenty loud. Later,

Hey, just put a bit under 100 miles on the new cruise unit, without the vacuum accumulator. Absolutely no problems whatsoever. 100% functional. I set it at an indicated 80mph (73 on the GPS) and it didn't move a bit. On some moderate inclines, it would drop down to 79 on the dash for a second then get right back to 80. I'm even able to hit the accelerate button up hills and it pulls really strong. No shortage of vacuum here. My bike must really suck. Final update, installed, working and road tested. I'm a happy mother fucker. Plus, took a ride with my dad today, him on his 2002 HD ultra glide with cams, hi perf ECM, full pipe, etc. I have to admit it's a quick tank. Anyway, We're in the right lane at a red light and realize that about 1/4 mile up we have to be three lanes over to make a left. We both know it. Light turns green, we get on it, I can hear him spanking it, I give it the juice in 1st and the wheel comes up and I just lit him up on 1 wheel. Best part was he liked it. Good day today, nice january ride. Later,

yeah I try to work as little as possible, as evidenced by my number of posts that fall between midnight and 8:00am.

And why did I double post?

Why is it that these engines need these special plugs?

I just added this note to the bottom of the page: NOTE Added 01/17/2006: I was sitting around when for some reason this popped into my head... you really don't need to actually get the back wheel spinning at all to get the cruise to attempt to engage (for testing purposes) with this type of setup. Remember, it's not actually seeing a MPH reading, only the tach. So I went out to the garage and tried it, and sure enough, just holding some RPM (about 3000-3500) while (safely) in neutral, then hitting "set", will also get the cruise to engage. You will notice the RPM's try to stay where they are after you release the throttle if things are working right. It may be just a momentary thing, for the reason I am about to mention, but it does show you that there is life. Again, it will be operating poorly, not holding the RPM perfectly, since you now have a very freely spinning engine, and the cruise will disengage by design if it senses sudden RPM spikes or drops. However, you can tell whether or not the cruise it at least making the attempt at pulling open the throttle, and if it does, it's likely that it will work correctly once on the road and in gear. If you get nothing at all, just drops back to idle, then it's time to go over everything again, especially the ignition (blue wire) tap.

Bhan, I almost resorted to the dremel to drill the hole, then the bit finally, well, bit, and once I got thru the surface it went right through. The idea with the slit sounds like a good one to me. Only difference on a carbed bike, I think, would be the attachment of the linkage (maybe the same) and the vacuum source (maybe the same). I've never seen the inside of a carbed XX so I'm guessing. Thanks everyone for the compliments wasn't especting as much. Appreciated. I know how much I think to myself "I'm glad that guy wrote that" when I come across something obscure that I need, just returning the favor.

I have a battery tender. Works well and will charge a partially dead battery. However, don't trust the light on the front. I have a sealed gel cell battery that I use for hobbies. It's 12V. It's dead, only puts out about 2 volts. If I hook it to a regular charger it takes no current according to the meter on the charger. If I hook it to the battery tender, the tender's lights indicate that the battery is "charging and 80% charged". Blinking green light if I remember right. If I unhook the tender then immediately test the battery, it's still at 2, maybe 3 volts. So I don't know how the tender measures "overall charge" but it does not work how you would expect. That said I would suspect your battery, or your battery tender.

The switch looks pretty weather tight. I ran some silicone around the seam in the switch just in case. Yes, the cruise shuts off when it senses a brake light, so either brake will shut it down. It also shuts down if it senses a sudden RPM change, so pulling in the clutch will also turn it off. It's safer than a throttle lock in my opinion for that reason. The install is still a little tough because you have to take off the tail, upper cowlings, lower cowlings, tank, and air box. Also have to route cables, make splices, bend brackets, etc... Then put it all back together. At a decent pace I would still dedicate a day's work to it in case there are any problems. If everything worked perfect and you turn wrenches really fast, maybe 4 hours. Maybe not.

NOTE 3/10/2006 : Read this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31259 Most of the install is still valid, but obviously something is awry. Be warned, it's not fun when this happens. Wrote this up since there is no other source for it that I could find. Let me know what you think. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve.humins...ndex_cruise.htm

Hey, I thought you rode an XX? When was the last time you needed a large amount of throttle to do anything on the XX? If all is quiet tonight at work as I suspect it will be, there will be an illustrated tutorial on the cruise posted here by 8:00am.

Yes, no vacuum can. So far so good. I'll have a better idea when I take the bike to work. But on my little test drive last night with half the bike still on a shelf in the garage it worked perfect. I'm going down now to put the rest of the bike back together and get the final pictures. Steve

I don't know what it calls for, but I know it is working seemingly perfectly tapped just before the MAP sensor on my 2003, and that's without a aux vacuum canister. I test drove it yesterday, set it at 60 and it stayed at 60, not 59 and not 61, no surging, just perfect.