redxxrdr

Barry, Don't throw parts at it. If you don't have a digital volt meter, buy one. I would then measure the battery voltage. Around 13 volts across plus to minus with nothing on. If good, then check the battery connections. I seem to remember a single main fuse between the battery and everything else. I don't have the prints in front of me. After you find the no start problem, follow the charging troubleshooting link in the usefull threads to verify that the stator and R/R are working properly.

John, I can't believe you are selling your 01. I waxed mine today. I still love the fastest color best. For those who don't know John, He is right. This is one of the best XX out there. But don't sell it.

15 volts sounds good. This LINK is great for troubleshooting charging problems. 01 and later birds have a upgraded R/R. I have seen post where a volt meter shows changing voltages, and others saying the instruments lights start acting strange. The connector plug between the stator and the R/R have been known to overheat, turn brown, and open connection. My bike has 48K miles, is on the second battery since new, and still works great.

Rich, I know your focusing on the BAS, but could you have a pinched tank vent line? Run it hard for a while and pull a vaccuum on the tank. Slow down, or stop and you get fuel flow again. It might even pinch off more in a lean. As a kid, I put a hotdog in my dads fuel tank. It would float around for a long time before blocking the fuel port in the tank. By the time he could get back to the car, the suction had released the hotdog and the car would start. It would also only happen with less than half a tank of gas. And NO, he has never let me forget it.

The suspension on the Bird is set up soft. Itcan power wheelie 1st to 2nd, but not easily. BUT.... Crank the throttle in first or second then back off and the suspension compresses. Add power quickly with it compressed, and it will come up. I did this by mistake the first few times I tried to get to 100mph fast. I am not a one wheel person. Funny, my doctor in Albany, GA still has his XX with his ZX14. He swaps them out every day when he rides to work. It was the 1000RR that he gave up. Gave up by hitting 5 deer with one bike. Welcome to the Nuthouse. We will have to ride together sometime.

So I will plead ignorance. How much better are silicone hoses? The US web site for this brand claims a drop in operating temperatures when using them. The Ron Ayres price for hoses and pump kit doesn't sound so bad. I wouldn't mind getting some spares before they dissapear.

Battery tender instead of the starts. When was the last time you changed the brake fluid? Good time to torque all the hardware. Or do like Tim does and take it all apart and put it back together again.

I would think not. All master links that I have seen have the male, long pins on them. This will prevent you from attaching two masters to each other. You would need a link of the female type between them. Cutting out a link somewhere else on the chain would just damage one link that you would again have to replace. Riveted master links are strong. I wouldn't worry about failure of a properly staked second link, if I had another short section of chain to go with it.

No, not unless you install a ghetto deluxe extended swingarm. Thanks, I was just curious...the ghetto-arm is not my style! Bob, 110 is the correct length. If cutting and riveting is a issue, let me know. GEISME3 ( Bill) has outlaws in Palm Coast. We work and ride together. I could get a chain tool down that way some weekend.

Yes, the 530 chain is the one specified for the XX. There are O ring and X ring chains for these bikes. The X ring is supposed to have less friction. I use the DID 530 chain. The web site was just off of a search, not the cheapest. I know Hobi has been doing some good deals. Also, you should use a riveted chain in stead of one with a keeper style master link. This means you need to buy or borrow a riveting tool, but it will be a much stonger chain. XX chain length is 110, but many chains are sold as 120's. Not a problem, a dremel tool will cut a chain in a hurry. Many people are going two rear sprockets to one chain. Honda made the rear sprocket out of Urber metal, and it wears well. Always change the front sprockt with the chain. I think there is a "how to" in theImportant Threads section on chain changeout. The big thing to remember is to loosen the bolt on the front sprocket BEFORE cutting off the old chain.

Randy, You had Cognet do the rear, do you have the funds to have them do the front? I felt a big change with my Cognet front forks. SAG was right at 36mm for my 200 lb rider weight. I remember that they used race tech valving and a proprietary spring to fit my weight. The biggest problem I have is that I am not a good enough rider to know if the ride changed for the good, or just changed. It certainly smooths out the bumps and ripples. I plan to get some of our experts to give my bike a try this year at RacerXX. Yet another reason to show up at Jennings.

I pulled the windscreen, the instrument surround covers and the instrument cluster. It was easy to install the ballast behind the cluster. While your at it, let Rob detail the bike for you. You have been missed. And your posts too. Let Rick talk you into RacerXX3. It's not that far, and a whole lot of fun. WELCOME BACK

When changing the CCT. Remove the old one, ( Two allen head bolt). Clean up the old gasket and install the new one. Install the new CCT, torque the bolts to spec. THEN REMOVE THE TAB in the end of the CCT!!!!!!!!! If you remove the tab early, the CCT will go to maximum travel. You can use a small screwdriver and retract it. But it's easier to leave the tab in until installed. You can then move the bolt that covers the tab hole over from the old CCT if you want. 15 minutes for a blind old man like me.

+1000 on this approach. Tank pivoted up, top of breather, then venturies, and remove the coils from the mounts. Don't disconnect the coils. Remove the lower breather box. There are two hoses and one electrical connector. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, extension, and a socket that will fit the shaft of the plug wrench in the tool kit. Pull one at a time. Be careful when installing the plugs, torque is only something like 8 dn. You could easily twist one off.

Rich has them. His site I bought some from him two years ago, but haven't gotten around to installing them.

+1 with Stan. I would try to find a old sweep meter ( simpson 360) or use a trouble shooting light along with the VOM. A high impedance meter will make you think that you have good connections that aren't really good. I know you are focusing on electrical, but could you have a plugged vent on your fuel tank causing poor or no fuel flow? Or a bad fuel regulator? Just asking.

I bet your battery is a standard lead acid type. They can short from heat, vibration, or being old and sulfated. The OEM style AGM batteries seem to hold up longer. Another possibility, but just as bad a failure is a open connection in the battery near a pole. You can see full charge when using a high impedance meter, but under a load, the connection will open up. I have always put a high quality battery in my bikes, and charged it properly before installing. 5-7 years of service is normal for me. Assuming that is that I didn't forget and leave the ignition on and drain it some time during it's life.

Rob, Sounds like the battery died. I have seen quite a few lead acids get a bad cell and not hold voltage under load. The good thing is that a quick failure probably didn't damage the charging system. I would charge the battery and try again or put in a replacement after charging it. Check the charging output with the usefull threads test. Some of the guys have been posting up AGM style batterys sold at Walmart. I put a new yuasa in mine last year. Figured 7 years on the OEM was enough. Sorry we didn't catch up last weekend. We made it as far south as Daytona for some Bubba Gumps. Next time.

+1 on the H7 But with prices on HID slimlines as low as they are, you should consider doing the upgrade. I have the old larger balast and carry the origional bulb under the seat. I could change it out on the road in less than 30 minutes if I ever had to. Philip has run HID for a few years and lots of miles. Once you put one in, you will wonder why you waited.

Noticed this Thread in the sales floor. Looks like a complete assembly for sale in that list.

Good for you. I bought the Harbor Freight changer with bike mount a few years ago. The first change was a little tough. But they got easier every time. I have now changed trailer, truck, bike, and tractor tires on it. Having a MOJO lever helps. It sure is nice to change my bike tires on MY timetable, not some shops.

One year too late. RED is the fastest color.

I cheated on getting the wheel off the ground. I had a couple of long 2x10's. I pulled the bike up on them. Then put the bike on the center stand, on top of the boards. I just let the wheel hang off the end of the boards. You can do the same thing at the edge of a sidewalk. That is unless you live in the sticks like me. Don't go much over the 6 mm. Too much and the bike will be less stable. And get to a MEAT. Rich, Eddy, and Tim are great about checking SAG. Mine was off from the factory. ( Couldn't be that I'm fat). Setting the SAG too really helped.

Stan, Would you post a picture of the balancers? My 01 always seem to vibrate more after a long heat soak ride. Let her sit a hour and she is not as smooth. Or maybe it's me? Anyway, I have heard they are rubber damped. I have wondered if they can shift a little when hot. Great work and pictures. I admire those of you who will go into a XX engine. I still remember putting my transmission back into my 72 911, only to find I had 5 reverse gears and one forward. It's attention to the details that makes the difference.

Important and useful threads LINK . I used a 5.5 mm aluminum washer, some people have bought a stack of washers that came close to 6mm. Or you can go to and he has some that are notched and slip in. Get some push pins and helmet ears while your there.