redxxrdr

A stupid question. What is the designation for the flat socket type bulb used in the later XX taillight? I seee the 1156/1157 types all the time, but have never found the numbers for the later style. My madness to the method is to use one of the pulse generator boxes from this site to pulse the brake light circuit. A buddy has this type system on his Beemer, and it is really annoying to be behind. Just the type of thing I want with a distracted cage behind me. Also, has anyone used the socketed LED packs in the taillight. I had always heard that the LED types are more directional and might not show up as well as a regular light from some angles.

Watching this thread. I'm at 50 K and could use a good rear shock. But I don't have the set up skills.

Hope you were not wearing shorts too. I'm glad to hear that you are back on the road. Now check that chain, and change the rest of the fluids. Use the important threads section for bleeding the brakes. She will be good for 5 or 6 k miles before you need new tires again. Enjoy

:icon_dance: :icon_dance: Great NEWS. Let's hope that Joe is as lucky.

I remember a post from WILLSXX, showing a source for LED replacements for the early lamps in the panel. My 01 has LEDs so I haven't had to change any cluster lights yet. But you should be able to pull the windscreen and get to the rear of the cluster. Or continue on and remove the three nuts holding the cluster in place and move it reward. The lights are in sockets. Rotate the sockets to a certain position, and two tabs on the sockets line up with holes in the cluster. The socket comes out, and you can then replace the light. I would look into replacing all lights with LEDs if your bike is old enough to have lights. Will was able to source different color LEDs and the pictures of the cluster looked real nice.

Any bearing under water are suspect as well. Homeowner's insurance buying you a new bike? no insurance.. no job I would have moved it but without the key I couldnt get it out of harms way from the pics i have seen water came to about 2 inches above the oil plug but not far enough to get into the cyclinders me thinks Should be in fair shape if only 2 inches above the oil plug. I would still pull the plugs and turn her through as soon as possible. Plus a oil change in case some water got in. At the level you describe, your starter and wheel bearings may have been damaged. But everything else should have been saved. I didn't notice what year the bike is. The dreaded service plug in the harness was low on the bike until 2000 I think. If it is a 2000 or earlier, that would be another area that I would clean up ASAP.

OMG.......that truly sucks. No. If its covered, the water will have gone into the combustion chambers through the intake system. You'll need to strip it down and pull the spark plugs out so that you can turn it over and force the water out of the cylinders. After that change the oil. From that point its a crap shoot. Your tank should be tight and the gas not contaminated, so you could theoretically hook it back up with a new air filter and give it a shot. Any bearing under water are suspect as well. Homeowner's insurance buying you a new bike? Time is important here. Do what Joe says. Pull the plugs, put in fresh oil and turn the engine through. I would do it by putting the bike on the centerstand in gear and turning the wheel. WD40 sprayed into the cylinders will help displace water in the cylinders. You may be lucky, if the valves were closed, and only got water into one or two cylinders. Your starter and cpu are wet, the connectors can corrode. WD40 sprayed on the connectors can help fight corrosion there as well. Once you can get it started, you will need to look into replacing the wheel bearings and the re-grease the steering head bearings. There have been cases of Trail 70's submerged for years and rebuilt. Get it drained and cleaned as fast as possible. At least it was fresh water. Good luck.

Although I don't have specifics. I do know from experience that screwdrivers are not created equal. I have a set from Germany that work well on most English or standard thread screws. I have a set of Vessel screwdrivers that were recommended by work for use on our Japanese CT scanners. The Phillips by Vessel fit much better on the blackbird. I remember seeing a note on a tool website that Vessel production had been affected by the earthquakes. My good screwdrivers have tempered tips, and typically round shafts. You don't need many, just long and short reach in the sizes that you typically use.

WTF? My house isn't that neat. The sad part is that I am still using the same Kenmore refridgerator as my primary one in the house. Nice looking shop BTW.

So............... Did the FPR fix the fueling problem? Are you going for a Labor Day ride?

I posted to be carefull about bending the rail. Like any line connection, you want to hold both ends with wrenches. I don't remember the exact sizes now, 24 and 27mm I think. That said, I used a close to size standard wrench and a crescent wrench the last time with good results. The FPR is sealed with the O rings on the pipe between the regulator and the rail, not really the fitting that mounts it. Mine was not hard to loosen. It is really much easier than you will think. Just get two wrenches and do it.

A dry concrete floor will dry up oil, but it usually has some oily residue. I hope what you saw was a fuel leak, mixed with road scum washed off the engine by the leak. I would follow the earlier advice and change the FPR and clean the tank. A sticking injector could allow fuel to get into one cylinder while the bike is stopped. I think I would pull the plugs and look for dry and or wet before trying to crank the bike again. I changed my FPR recently. Easy to do, just needed a couple of large open end wrenches to hold the FPR and the injector rail. Don't want to bend that rail. Also, the FPR has a short tube with two o rings on it to couple to the injector rail. My FPR came off with the tube in it. My new FPR didn't have the tube, so I scratched my head for a couple of minutes before gently removing the tube and putting it on my new FPR. Good luck and keep posting results.

I bought one from them just a month or two ago. So it may be a sourcing problem.

Agreed if the fairings are plastic. JB Weld is great stuff, but not flexible. If your are attaching to a flexible fairing, it will probably pop off. I have had fair results using JB weld over window screen material. Use it like you would fiberglass cloth and resin to strengthen and spread the bond area. You can sand the mounting area on the fairing to give a larger surface area for the JB weld to attach to, and then use the screen and weld to make a bigger patch. I think most fairings are PVC style plastic. I would get a small can of PVC pipe glue and try to bond another piece of plastic in a un-seen area. If it holds good, then try the clips. Or better yet, use some pieces of the donor fairing as welding material and a soldering iron to Plastic Weld the clips on.

I can send you the old one once I install the new FPR and test a little bit. PM me a address. Also my OEM lines are stiff, but holding. I have a Audiovox cruise control installed. It was the additional lines supplied with the kit that are cracking. But the OEM stuff is really stiff, which in my experience means it's time to replace them.

An update with the vacuum lines fixed, and the old FPR. Mileage is now around 40 mpg. Up from 28-30. These are 1 tank measurements, so they are not real accurate. However a 10 mpg gain by fixing leaks is good. I have silicon hose coming. I had measured the vacuum fitting on my new FPR and it read 4.49mm. I ordered 4 mm hose. Hose and FPR will get changed next week. I will post up what I see after these changes.

Been buying those cheap valve stems? Most are Chinese made and leak after a few months. Eddy has convinced me to try some aluminum ones from Kurvey Girl. All I need now is to take time to break down the tires.

Man Rob that sucks. I can tell you, that is a really nice bike. Good luck with the sale. Edit, I thought that picture looked familar. For those who wonder, Rob's bike isn't dirty. That is Florida Frost.

Well I just got in a Turbo City FPR. So I grabbed a flashlight and lifted the tank to see what it will take to change it out. A different light, at a different angle found another split vaccum line in the cruise circuit. So I have replaced it, and will run a tank through it to get a new baseline. Then I will try the new FPR. Too dark tonight to get my calipers in and measure the OEM line sizes. The bike is now ten years old. Figure I should replace all the lines while I'm in there.

Strange lighting problems are often a grounding issue. Circuits seem to be able to pull a ground through the filaments of a un-wanted bulb. I noticed a slight flash in my left turns signal last night, when my right is on. All I have done is replace a failed brake bulb. I would check the battery and frame grounds first for tightness and clean connections.

Yes air pressure at 41psi. You taught me that at WIXX a few years ago when I rode up there on track day pressures. I have also checked for brake and bearing drag. Both seem OK. I changed my plugs origionally at 16K. NO I didn't read the inspect at 16, replace at 32. So I changed again at 48K. It was thirsty before the change out. There are a couple stations around that advertise NO Ethenol fuels. Not close to home, but worth the drive to try. I still ride like a old lady, so I figure there are other things coming into play.

I have the same problem. I used to tie down with soft ties right over the fender mount. No spring compression, easy to get to. I have wondered if I bent the mount ( brake line mount if I remember).

I could usually plan on 220 miles per tank when I first got my 01. Last month, I could only get 140 miles. So I started checking things. One thing that I found was a split vacuum line going to my cruise control servo. Not a Honda line, but one of the cheap ones provided with the cruise. I repaired that line, and I have gone from 28 mpg to 32mpg. Still not where I started, but a great start. I plan to check all lines including the PAIR lines when I get home with a empty tank. ( No Rich, I still haven't installed the PAIR bypass kit from two years ago. ) I am also thinking of going back to the OEM air filter instead of the K&N. I may be over oiling it. So a couple of questions. What size are the vacuum lines? I didn't see it in the book. Is there a benefit to buying silicone vacuum lines? I worry that the local autoparts lines are like the Chinese valve stems. Good for a year, then fail. Thanks, Craig

Bob, I am thinking about the 18 tooth countershaft in the near future. Where did you get it? What brand? How do you like it? Thanks