OZDave

The Australian models get a 44 tooth rear as standard, and usually a choice of colours every year. The colour choices this year were Matt Black limited edition (limited to how many they could sell?), Metalic Black, two tone Blue and I think, a straight Blue(THE FASTEST ) . No red this year . Never seen or heard of a green :?

Technically no, in reality, Yes. There is a guy down here who drills the end of the shock and fits a regassing valve at an angle that allows the threaded collar to still be fitted. He says everything internall is available for replacement, seals etc. He alters the shim stack and spring weight to suit the rider. It's noticably better than standard but not a patch on an Ohlins or Wilbers. It's still just an emulsion shock. Shit load cheaper though There must be someone up there that can do a similar job?

Iv'e used the sticky thread type a number of times without any problems at all. I also do everything wrong according to the comments here :? a) Ride on the thing straight away. I think this beds the thread in better. Make sure there is a substantial loop inside the tyre so it folds down and sticks on to the inside of the tyre. This helps to resist pulling out. Don't ream out the hole unless it is very dirty. If it's a screw, for example, wind it out instead of tearing it out. Just make the hole big enough so a thread can be pushed in with a lot of effort and use the vulcanising fluid for lube. I keep checking the tyre for bulging and other signs of obvious delaminating or degrading, but I will use the tyre for it's full life. I think 'going to town' reaming the hole out does more damage to the carcase than it does help the thread to stick. Obviously an internal mushroom or plug patch is better but I usually don't get a flat next to a tyre shop. These are NOT the opinions of a tyre expert, but I've never had a problem

By the way, the springs make the most difference. The valves help but lighter oil is cheaper alternative that is nearly as effective.

I used Eibach 1Kg springs with 37mm sag. Also have Suspension Tech rebound and compression valves with a custom shim stack, and 2.5 weight oil. It was worth the trouble to have it done but the labour (and expertise) was a little pricey. I'd do it myself next time. Difference is very noticable. A lot of the roads are the quality of goat tracks down here. I also have the 5mm longer Wilbers shock on the back from the group buy. The suspension mods are the best money I have spent on any bike. The bike is much better on heavy braking, cornering (with Pilot Powers ) and rough roads, but it is still plush on longer trips. Get the front done, It's worth it.

I'd go no more that 40mm. Mine is 37mm and feels good, but I've also got the RaceTech compression and rebound valves fitted. Air gap is important too. What have you got that set to?