arcticflipper

Got hold of VFR800 or (Interceptor) Panniers - Second Hand, and then did a lot of searching to find the right sketches for the mounting brackets from Honda. Honda does have a OEM panniers set available for the XX, but it ain't cheap at all. That's why I got as much info as possible with regards to the mounting bracket. After a couple of tries I managed to get a mounting bracket made up and fitted. I personally prefer the OEM pannier look to the GIVI setup. I think the VFR panniers are 34L panniers, thus smaller than the GIVI's. I did however have to move the rear pegs forward, to allow a decent riding position for the pillion. This was also not a major problem to get done. I did post a writeup about what I did earlier. I think it was under OEM Panniers

Mine was off on speed - 7.9%

On an OEM exhaust system, just before the Y-piece, there's a metal box that the 4 pipes(Headers) go into. What does this do? Is it some sort of restriction? The O2 sensor goes in there too. What will happen if I cut that box out and extend the headers and connect them to a new Y-piece? I will also reconnect the O2 Sensor.

Thanks Northman. If I remember correctly, you fit them on top of the spacer tube and at the bottom? Or is it just at the bottom of the spacer tube above the spring?

Whats the diameter on the spacers?? lack of a better word you guys use to compress the fork springs more - It's placed on the inside - 34mm?

Maybe you should just go back to your crack pipe, homey. .............................................................. So I reckon your'e either afraid of twisting the throttle, not interested in going fast, prefer the sexy appearance of two mufflers, or never pulled alongside an 02 XX with a full exhaust system!................homey! Dumbass... You're up pretty high on my "list" You may want to consider doing a search on here to see what Chris's bike has done to it before talking shit... Are you wondering yet why everybody's putting their money on him without ever seeing your "ultra-fast, 200mph "uncorked" XX?" Mike 142 hp? is that all? Christ I'm up at around 1700m above sea level and I'm pulling 146.5 hp with just slipons added? WTF?? I've got a euro 02 XX. Those figures with a full system sounds ... well.... weak, and you are telling here that you can hang with ZX12's and busa's? Something doesn't sound right......

Who's running the pot? I'd like to place a bet on this....... Can we get a spec sheet on both the bikes? Dyno chart and also mods on the bike?

I've got 3 documents stating different options for the settings. What is the norm for front and rear? Loaded sag - first document states: Front - 30mm to 50mm rear - 20mm - 30mm second document: front - 25mm - 35mm rear - 20mm - 30mm 3rd document - front: 30mm-35mm rear: 25mm-30mm What do you guys set yours at?

Nope sorry, not on HyperPro's here. OEM's Got hold of a second fork set, and tried these - looking to trade the current XX in on a newer one, well one with lower miles on. Haven't been able to find something else to replace the XX with yet. My usual forks is setup with wilbers springs and valving. Much better, but these I'm transferring to the newer XX. No fucking way I'm selling those!!! What is the normal figures for the sag? Front and rear? Actually is it better to have it closer to the beginning numbers, like 35mm front and 30mm rear or more towards the end? What have you guys found works better?

So now after all this testing and checking etc. It struck me that I never checked the load and static sag on the bike. I know fucking newbie.... :icon_doh: So after checking this I found that the current setup is so way out that an elephant could ride the bike and it might be closer to what it's supposed to be. I've changed the majority to get it as close as possible, but still need to do the rear OEM shock. That thing's a bitch to try and turn. How do you guys turn the spring in or out? Clamp the spring and then turn the rings in? I tried the hammer and drift thing - I know fucking animal :icon_duh: but that became too painful for me to do, so I rather left it. I could still not get the rings o turn in any case. End result - front is sitting on 43mm with the rear at 38mm. Front sounds ok, I could possibly still drop the front yokes about 2mm to help bring it further into spec, but I first want to ride and test it again. This is most prob the reason for my gt stipes down my pants this morning.... I

I checked the oil level and airgap on both - 143mm exactly. Cleaned off the forks and checked to see if there's any oil deposits after some riding. Nothing. I'm now not sure anymore if it is the front or the rear that is causing the problem. I completely lost it today in a high speed corner. Doing 260 + kph turning right the rear stepped out, started of feeling like a speed wobble, and then it just kept running wider. Dropped a knee out to try and get the bike to keep it's line, nothing changed. Also counter steered completely, with no improving the line. It's a corner I know very well, and have run previously at much higher speeds than I did today. The guy behind me said it looked like the shake came from the rear, but I'm not sure? I think I will change the front fork oil just to be safe, and also have teh rear shock checked. I do know that I 'm due for a rear tyre, which might also contribute to the problem? Pumping the dampning rod on both the shocks felt very similar, but once everything is assembled the right fork feels spongy, springy in a way. As if the dampning isn't there. It returns quicker with no visible slowing down to the original position. I'm not getting any bottoming out on the front or rear. Turned the dampning on the rear OEM from hardest out 2 turns. Seems a little bit better with holding the line, but still gets the arse wobbling. Tyres? Pressure is 2.9 kpa front and rear, checked the wheel bearings - seems fine, checked the steering bearings, and torqued to the correct settings. Weight is still the same as before - 70 KG's about 155 pounds I think. Is it possible that the dampning spring could be worn out? What does this spring do?

Thanks RedBird.. I just dropped the front forks out to see if there's a difference. The one feels more oily than the other one, and also softer. Not a lot but still softer. There's no oil pushing out that I can see through the oil seal. If I replace a fork seal, do I do both at the same time or just the damaged one? I will check the air space now, and see if the one has less oil in it than the other. Could this perhaps also be the cause of my tank slapper? not really a tank slapper, but rather a serious vibration on the handle bars. I changed the fork oil about 15 000 km or 9322 miles ago - when I had the forks done. Would track riding cause more and quicker wear on the fork oil and also perhaps be the cause of the one fork being more oily? The track I normally ride is mainly right turns, which is also the fork that feels more oily and is also softer than the other.

Is there anything that could co wrong with the fork dampening? How do I test to see if it is still working fine? I've read about valving, is this something that could pop out under heavy riding? Reason for the Q, the front feels like it's coming back up way too quickly. Maybe I'm imagining stuff, but is there anything I can check just to be sure? I've also noticed a scratching noise from the right front fork, when ever it is used. Any ideas?

From the previous posts about suspension, 6mm shock spacers, heavier spriengs etc, I've decided to test a couple of more things on my XX. I got hold of a second set of forks, just for testing and replaced the Wilbers rear shock with an OEM shock that I had. The new shock is completely OEM, springs and 10 weight fork oil. I did a 5mm spacer on the rear shock, and tested it on a very short track here in South Africa. (SwartKops) This is what I found the Bike did - It is definitely more flickable, turns quicker and more aggresively. The tail sit a lot higher than normal. More weight is on the front. But When I started puching the bike hard through the corners I had to fight the bike to keep it in the turn. The bike would stand up the harder I pushed it. Could this be because I'm still using OEM forks with 10 weight oil? Would this change if I went down to 7.5 or even 5 weight fork oil? Please remember that I'm only weighing in at around 150 pounds, and only stands about 5'12" tall. I then changed the 5mm spacer for a 2.5mm spacer and did the same test. Found that the bike held the line a lot better. With both the spacers in, I can not spin the rear wheel when the XX is on it's centre stand. Is this normal? I have also noticed that when I run the bike hard, keep it above 7k rpm, while exiting a couple of turns the nose becomes very light. This is normally not a problem, but on shorter tracks this isn't always ideal as the next turn is up very quickly after the exit. Lastly, with both spacers in I did also notice that on one hairpin I always now lock the rear wheel up. This might also be because I still have the linked brake system, or maybe just because the weight has moved forward a bit? I'm just realy interrested and would really like to be able to make the XX a bit more track competative than what it is currently.

Today even before I fitted the 16 front I did seem to get a lot more out of the XX? Maybe I was just having a really bad day when the RT ran away from me, what I did forget to mention was that I had a pillion on that weighed in at 85 Kg's, plus we saw pleanty of serious accidents that day. Maybe all of this played in on my nerves? Also the guy on the RT is a pro racer in the South African racing scene.... Oh well I'll have a look and see what the difference is.

Yip you guys were right, I checked everything else except the start button / cluster. After thinking about this for a bit, and out of frustration I did open up the starter or throttle switch. And there we are - 1 lose wire. Soldered it on, and checked and re-checked to make sure that it is now working. Looks like the problem is solved, for now at least. Thanks guys

I'll drop one tooth in front today and have a feel on what the bike is like, and I will also try to drop it one gear lower than I usually do when hitting the twisties. Another Qeastion - Who's running a TFI fuel mapping system, instead of a PC3? The TFI is affordable and about half the price of the PC3 here in South Africa. I've heard conflicting info about power loss and gains regarding these 2 units? Any info?

I don't have running lights on the Euro 02 XX. It's the dims and hi-beam, none if it is working, except when I hold down the pass switch.

Even with fully loaded panniers and a pillion you are still able to corner much better than 1-up on the old setup. the only Con I've come accross so far is that in wet weather riding the arse feels a bit light, but then again I only come in at 160 pounds, I know I'm a midget - don't have to remind me.... lol Initially I also dropped the front but removed that after I couldn't stop the rear wheel sliding in the wet.

I hit a bump in the road, and the front lights went out.... checked the fuse, nothing wrong butr replaced it in any case just to be sure, alos checked the pass switch - lights work when I hold it in. Opened the switch, but no loose wires? Checked the light relay and it gave me an ohm reading of 11? What else could there be to check? If I pull the pass switch, and the lights are on dim all the lights come on except the dim, and if I switch to hi beam all the lights come on when holding the pass switch. Any Ideas?

What will I lose if I drop 1 teeth in front to go to a 16? Will I lose top end, how much and then also what will the fuel economy be like? I'm currently battling to hit the redline in 6th gear, so if I drop down to a 16 I think I would be able to bounce if off the revlimiter. Shouldn't lose too much topend, or am I wrong here?

Thanks for the info guys. Is there any way of getting more power below 7K rpm? Would a PC3 give me this option? Or is the only real solution looking towards the BIg bore Kit? I have done the 6mm shim on the rear and yip, a bit of work on the front forks. The XX handles like a dream, and once you've picked a line and stuck it in there it doesn't drift, wallow or do anything funny. Even 2-up it just sits there and runs the line with confidence. Even fully loaded with panniers and a pillion it's still holding each line perfectly. Obviously at a little bit slower speeds than whithout the panniers. I really do like the comfort of the XX, I just can't see myself on a crotch rocket. Is it possible to move the power curve from 7K rpm down to like 5K rpm with a Power Commander?

The problem I'm having is that I'm getting dropped in the twisties by smaller bikes, and well bigger bikes too. This is due to the fact that the XX only starts to pull from 7K up, and normally in the Mpumalanga area in South Africa there isn't enough room to hit the 7K mark before you need to grab a handfull of brakes and put the bike into the next turn. When the sweepers comes up nothing sticks to the XX, high speed 250+ kph, but it's the quicker turns that gets too me. Initially I thought that I wasn't riding the bike correctly, and thus took the bike to the track. We have 4 groups running, starting from novice - Group D to racer boys group A. After the first 20min session I got bumped straight to Group B. Fuck me but that's hectic riding. I managed to stick with them for about 5 laps, after which I couldn't feel my arms or close my hands. This Bitch is just way to fucxking heavy for that shit. Now is there anything else that I could do to gain more low-down power? Even a fucking BMW RT ran away from me through the first 3 gears, after which I could only haul his ass back on the sweeps. I've used a 18 front and 45 rear, 18 front and 50 rear even, but still get my ass handed to me on the tighter stuff. I know the XX isn't really suppose to ever be able to compete with lighter bikes in the corners, but I sure as hell would like to give it a damn good go. I like the bike just way too much to accept that it's getting a beating here. If I use gas would the bike still be ridable? or will it now become more of a straight line bullet than anything else. I must say that there isn't normally a lot of time to do anything between the turns here, constant body movement and pushing to get the bike in the correct line. I must say that the Busa is no match for the XX when it comes to handeling these turns. The Busa's front wheel keeps on drifting in every corner. I will post a small vid of the roads and turns I'm talking about. This might give you guys more info on what I need and are writing about. Does anyone have a PC3 they want to get rid off? for an 2002 European model. PLEASE http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/Arc...¤t=b8805cca.flv http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/Arc...¤t=7e87093b.flv http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/Arc...¤t=bd38f1e7.flv

Looking for some more power and speed on the XX, now there's a couple of Q's and options that is available. PC3? Is it really worth spending the cash on this or does it not really improve performace that much? Big-Bore kit? Worth the cash and what is the problems that goes with this upgrade? What else is out there that I can do to improve the XX? I really like the 02 XX that I currently have, but it is starting to get a bit slow now. I've allready done and played with gearing, but I still prefer to get better milage than top end. I've also noticed that I can't seem to hit the redline in 6th gear, even when I'm hanging on the cable. I've not yet been able to resolve this. I know there was talk about fitting S2000 car injectors, and that they were the exact same as the XX uses, but with a stronger flow. Has anyone done this before? What was the problem if any with this upgrade.

Ok so this is what I think the best solution to this problem would be. I've seen some rear set extending devices, which gave me an idea that the best solution would be to be able to move the pegs to various places on a straight bar, connected to a smaller pivoting mounting that fits directly into the OEM rear peg mounting spot. You will have to be able to adjust the placement of the pegs forwards and backwards, as well as the angle that the pegs are sitting at. I have not yet been able to get drawings made, but in essence it should then work something similar to the front set units available on the net, similar as to what the racers use. I'll get some drawings up so that you guys and gals could give me some input.