XXL-XX

This is an exellent explanation and the circuit you should use.

Diodes have very little forward bias resistance and they do not behave like resistors. Diodes will draw a lot of current untill they burn up which is why we limit the available current with a resistor. Now, the voltage drop across the diode is determine by the design of the diode and is constant. When you connect multiple diodes in parrallel, the one with the largest voltage drop across it will regulate the voltages for the others. They will all draw approximately the same current. Providing they are closely match. Your diodes are closely match based on the specs. There are other factors involved base on the design of the diodes but you need not worry about them in this simple circuit. Remember to protect the circuit and your bike's electrical system with fuses. If you have any question on values for the fuses give me a call.

XXL , Isn't there a law or formula that states when you have common static loads connected in paralell that the resistance drops with the addition of more devices connected across the whole circuit ?? Also , Duh.................... I swear , if these were just light bulbs , something in my head thinks it would be more simple, but with the LED's needing to have both voltage and amperage limited, it's just different. The voltage drop across a semi-conductor like an LED is determine by the PN junction and its dopping level, it's design. By design the voltage drop will always be 1.8 ~ 2.2 as specified and will not deviate. This is why semi-conductors are so reliable. All the diodes in parallel will draw approximately the same current from the load providing that they are soldered properly. These jumbo LEDs will have no trouble carrying 30mA contineously for years.

Above is a circuit diagram for each bank of 10 LEDs from the taillight specs. remember to repeat the ciruit for each 10 LED bank. ADD up the number of 10-LED banks multiply by 300ma multiply by 1.5 to get the fuse value to use from the battery terminal.

Change the CCT (15 minutes) with OEM part. Noise is gone. If it returns before I hit 40K on the odometer I will try fixes from previous posts. Thanks Again. I'll see you guys in PA.

Mine does that too, but it didn't just start up one day.... It might be worth it to pull the clutch cover off, and see if the clutch basket is ok. I heard that the clutch basket is a real weak point on Blackbirds.... Dodge, you should check your Cam Chain Tensioner because my bird ran noiseless before I had this problem.

Tanxx K9. That is what my problem is. I can go to the shop with confidence now. they are still going to ask me to turn around and do the bend over thing.

:cry: Help!!!! yesterday was a beautiful day in North Jersey. I was cruising on my bird ('97 no mods w/20K miles) when it started making this weird noise on the right side of the gear box. sounds like loose objects in there, like a ducati. I did not loose power and the bike shifted smoothly. The noise persisted when I shifted into neutral and coasted to a stop. It got really loud when I had the bike on the side stand and took my lid off. Since there was no evidence of binding, I rode about 10 miles home. I checked the oil and the level is fine. I take my bike to the local shop relegiously every 2K miles for checks and oil changes. Base on what they charge for oil changes and new tires, I know they are going to want a limb or two. Has anyone experience the same problem with their bird?