dehning

Just FYI, I'm 95% through creating and installing a custom line set for my 99 VFR800. I'm doing my 'bird next (virtually identical setup). Having custom lines built to keep the LBS functionality costs $210 including shipping for all lines including the clutch line. I replaced the various front-to-back lines with single solid SS lines. (All Banjo bolts are 10mm x 1.25 and the 2 screw connectors are 10mm x 1.0 in case you are interested. ) Pics here

OK guys, I've attached pics of the lines now that I have 'test' fit them. To answer the question of where I got them: They came from a Canadian company I found on eBay who was offering any 4 lines for $80 with shipping. I asked if they would do 10 lines (what the 'Bird & VFR need with clutch) for $200 and they agreed. They even included a bag full of copper crush washers and as many banjo bolts as there were ends. Upon request they even threw in 3 double banjo bolts. The only things which I'm having to get separately are 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolts to hold the banjos that attach to the delay valve and proportioning valve. The next time I do this (for my bird), I'll just order the ends with the 10mm x 1.0 screw in connector. The most important thing I have discovered in this exercise is that the orientation of the connectors to each other is fairly important, more so on the short cables. You will want to get the 5" cable that goes from the bottom of the left caliper to the piston exactly right. I haven't got a picture, but the lines snap perfectly into the fastners on the frame that the solid lines used to use.

Yes, of course my conversion has basically replaced the entire hard line and connected rubber line with one single piece of SS line. Funny enough though the other connectors on both the delay valve and proportioning valve are standard 10mm x 1.25 I just got through test fitting them and it's looking pretty good, there are just a couple of banjo angles I might do a little differently next time, but overall it's very neat.

So I just took delivery of my custom brake lines and started draining the existing setup. I'll add more photos as I progress. I hope this project goes well because it means that you can do a complete SS line replacement (including clutch) for $200 including shipping. For the record, I see the comments on the linked system and I think that you guys that are track pros have a legitimate reason to want to remove it, but the rest of us are really kidding ourselves if we think that the system's negative effects outweigh the positive ones. Have already learned one thing that I will do differently for the 'Bird setup and that is that the threaded connectors that go into the proportioning valve and delay valve are actually 10mm x 1.0 connectors and I will get these connectors next time. This time for safety I went with banjos and I'm getting a set of SS 10mm x 1.0 SS banjo bolts. Just for the record, I have also installed a set of "Sixity" sintered metal pads to give them a try (I have EBC HH's on my 'bird). They have now worn in nicely and I can honestly say that I can't feel any difference in the stopping power between the two, for the price difference, I'll definitely buy Sixity pads again.

I've pulled the trigger on the lines so we'll see. Still want to know what pitch/size that thread is so I can see about a banjo bolt.

OK thanks, I'm going to try using a banjo connector with a 90 degree bend and a banjo bolt in place of the screw in connectors, will keep everybody informed on progress. On a side note, I raised up on my pegs this morning to go over a bump in the road and the right one broke clean off!!! It was a shitty after-market peg that came with the bike.

Thanks! Isn't it a little strange that they use non-metric sizes on an otherwise metric bike??? I'm not sure of the conversion, but is it possible that the "1/8 npt flare" is actually a metric size? Also, per attached diagram, would my hoses need to be concave tipped or convex tipped ? I might have to use a convenional banjo connector and banjo bolt if I can't get the connector worked out. Do you see any problem with using a conventional banjo in place of the Tee banjos ?

Anybody ? I'm waiting to place the order. $200 for all lines including banjo colts & crush washers.

That would be highly appreciated !

I am attempting to have a complete set of brake/clutch lines made up to basically replace everything on my 5th gen VFR (& XX later) and keep the LBS intact. My question is this, what size/pitch are the holes in the PCV valve and Delay valve. Are they 10mm x 1.0 ? or 10mm x 1.25 like the banjo bolts ? If this project works, then it will be a dramatically cheaper way to get SS lines on LBS equipped bikes. Somebody please lend me a hand here.

Did a quick search for you... How about this: 2003

Don't think it's coolant as the level is staying solid and the oil that I drain out again is clear. I think it may be the oil cooler or the pressure relief valve. Will pull the coller off this evening and see what happens I try and blow through it. Otherwise I guess I'm pulling the oil pan. On the plus side, the slave cylinder for the '07 CBR1000RR just arrived and it fit's perfectly!

OK, the first time I actually thought it was the filter and so I replaced it, definitely only one filter seal. Very aware of the oil level (since it's inversely proportional to what get's dumped on my floor). Oil level is good.

So I have been working on a '99 VFR800 project bike and I have everything together and almost all the gremlins worked out except for this one: When I start the bike up, if I just let her idle or I ride gently, all is OK, but if I rev her above about 7000 RPM (at running temp), she will blow the seal for the oil filter out and blow oil through the gap. Has happened 3 times and let me tell you how tired of cleaning up baby oil slicks I'm getting . Another associated symptom is that there is a small leak where the feed comes into/exits the oil cooler. I had thought that it may just be a bad o-ring, but now I'm wondering if oil isn't flowing properly in the engine and too much pressure is building up. One more thing that I'm not sure of the relevance is that she will blow a lot of white smoke when warmed up (only when warmed up ), I had assumed that this was old oil in the header pipe which was there when I got the bike in pieces a few months ago, but now I'm not so sure. I hope like hell this isn't a major problem as I really don't feel like ripping the engine apart. The history of the bike is that it was caught in hurricane Ike. The owner had completely disassembled the bike and was getting ready to sell the parts on ebay. I got hold of him with just the ECU sold. I got all the parts for $1200 (Title OK & transfered) I bought a replacement harness & ECU off eBay and I am waiting for another slave cylinder to arrive. I also got the left side cowl and seat cowl for a good deal. Got the muffler basically brand new for $1 off eBay and the seller through in a new set of bar ends too! Bike has Metzler M1s and a corbin seat Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated.

Try Dean's connectors for Radio Controlled race cars, they are made to take absolutely massive current (30+ Amps at least), connect and disconnect easily but stay connected in the harsh environment inside one of those little cars.

I think I may do that. I just realized that the two little studs on most of the honda slave cylinders I see are actually intended to line up a label plate that was present on the VF500 era bikes. Typical Honda, design it right and don't fix it if it ain't broke!

I'm posing the question here since I got zero response on vfrworld. My current project is a '99 VFR800 that got a little hurt in hurricane Ike. Almost everything is done, but I noticed that the clutch slave cylinder was leaking. I opened it up and I have a suspicion that a repair kit ain't going to stop the leak. (the cylinder walls are etched from something) So I was searching the web and I discovered that most VFRs, VTR1000 and RC51s use the same slave cylinder. I also noticed that the 05/06 CBR1000RR uses one that looks compatible. My question is this: Can anybody tell me if any of the CBR or Goldwing slave cylinders are compatible with the VFRs. The model number for the VFR's is 22860-MT7-000. I've attached 4 pics, #1 is the VFR part and the other three are CBR1000RR parts.

PM sent. What year VFR are they off of? If they came off a blackbird then I would surmise that they would have to be from a 98-01 VFR.

Not to be a smart-ass back, but if you read the first line of my post it says "I'm re-assembling a '99 VFR800 I purchased in pieces" I actually got a response back from the VFR group and found the connector, now I'm just waiting for my iridium plugs and the yuasa battery before testing her out. I will warn anybody else who attempts this that after spending many hours on a Ninja 250, a CBR1000F and a VFR750, that the VFR800's plumbing is orders of magnitude more complex, even having the shop manual was only a limited help. The linked brake system wasn't as complex as I had expected (but I still have to bleed it) Will keep y'all posted.

Thanks! I have everything else hooked up, just those two elude me.

I'm re-assembling a '99 VFR800 I purchased in pieces a few weeks back, it's almost complete, but I have two wiring questions that I need help on. I've posted at VFR World, but nobody seems to know. The first question involves a little plug that comes up from somewhere on or near the right die of the engine, see pic 1 (and no, it's not the one that goes into the bottom or back of the airbox) The second is about the fused red line that comes directly off the positive battery terminal, the fuse has an OEM position, so I assume it's stock and the other end seems to plug into a plug on the closest point on the harness (according to the service manual). The bike turns on, turns over and things seem to work without it being connected. See pic 2 Hope somebody here can help. The third pic is what it looked like before it was torn down. Thanks

Mine was looking pretty scratched so I decided to take some sandpaper to it and go down to the aluminium. On my silver '02 it actually comes out really well, you might try it. I plan to polish mine to a shine

I do in fact have a PowerCommanderIII on mine, the bike came with it.

I have a single sided Yoshi, I was kind of sad when I got the bike with it because I liked the twin pipe look, but it has grown on me and it's very quiet.

OK, so I have been riding around for a few days now with both EBC HH pads and stainless lines on my VFR750. All I can say is WOW! The response is so sharp that I have almost locked it up a few times already, I'm having to re-learn how to brake on the VFR! Switched back to the 'bird this morning (with EBC HH but no SS Lines) and again, the HH pads make a huge difference, but I underestimated how much precision the SS lines bring to the table. The LBS makes it a little more complex on the 'bird, but I think the combination of EBC HH pads and SS lines should make an incredible difference to braking. Just my 2c