xrated

Thanks Rich.....let me know!

Sorry, gotta have the cash. I just got rid of a pit bike, so I don't need another one. I also just bought an '04 600RR trackbike, so I need to get the cash out of this one and put some money back into the bank!

This is posted on other forums so it is subject to being sold there also. I have an Autocom........Eurocom with two headsets that is in good working condition. The microphone part of both units has just had the "refresher foam" applied to it, as well as the speakers in both units. I need to get $150 ($155 if paying by paypal), plus actual shipping cost. PM if you are interested. I do have one other person that is interested, but haven't heard anything for certain as of Sunday evening. Thanks

That is one of the reasons that I've got it priced like it is......No Title. I did get a bill of sale for it when I bought it and since it is a track only bike, it really doesn't matter to me.

Josh, I would really appreciate it if you did. It seems that when I sold Peggy's F4 last year it came from someone on your local board. Thanks

I have an 02 GSX-R 750, and it’s got to go. I bought it 3 or 4 weeks ago with hopes that it would fit my wife, who does trackdays with me. I was able to lower it some with the ride height adjuster on the rear Penske, but it still wasn't enough for her to be able to get her feet down. Then the reach up to the clipons was way too far for her to get comfortable with, so I am going to sell it and try to find her another 600RR like she rides on the street. THIS BIKE COMES WITH A BILL OF SALE ONLY...........NO TITLE So about the bike: 02 GSXR 750 Very reliable SS motor (originally tuned by Huff Daddy) Ohlin front suspension (by Thermosman) Ohlin steering damper Penske triple on the rear Woodcraft 2 piece clip-ons Vortex adjustable rearsets New EK chain (used once since putting it on) Bridgestone tires BT002 (approx. 75 to 80%) Extras: Extra brake and/or clutch levers Assorted rear sprockets Brand new counter sprocket (16 tooth, never been used) An assortment of brake pads (Veserah pads used during endurance rounds on another bike, and other brand new pads Pricing is $2500 with the spare parts included in the price. Contact me via PM or leave a message on my cell phone 618-531-0508 Bike is located in the Knoxville, TN area (Maryville, TN) 37801

BTT again.............$125 plus shipping! PM me if interested!

BTT with new price..........REDUCED TO $140 plus shipping!!

Thanks Joe, it's a much better pic than the Euro website has!

I have a genuine Honda Tankbag with the rain cover, brand new and never used. This is the European model that cannot be purchased here in the U.S. Model number is....08L56-MCS-B010. Here is a link to Honda of Europe, where you can take a look at the bag. Once again, this is brand new, never mounted. I have taken it out of the box to look at it, but not used it at all. Color is black with the Honda name in Red and is 28 Liters in size. http://ww1.honda.co.uk/mcstatic/en/p...300PanEuro.pdf Price is $180and you pay for shipping and insurance (if you want insurance). I will take paypal. If you are interested, PM me for my paypal address. This ad will be placed on other forums also, so whoever PM's me first will get the first opportunity! This bag is for the European ST1300, but will also fit the BlackBird and give you an unbelievable amount of tankbag storage Thanks, Vern

I run the Pilot Power 2 CT's on my sportbike (600RR), but I run the PR2 on my ST1300 and really like them. It is my first set of PR2's, so I can tell you what the mileage is going to be, but they are Pilot Roads in the middle of the tire and Pilot Powers on the edges. I've had the ST1300 cranked over far enough to scrape the pegs several times with my wife on the back also. Good Grip and suppose to do very well in the wet also..........although I have NOT tried out that aspect of the tire.

Just a quick lesson in basic electricity. When two devices are hooked up in parallel (LED turn signal and resistor), Both devices receive the applied voltage (12 volts in this case) and therefore the LEDs will be at full brillience (if they are in fact rated for 12 Volts) and the resistor will receive 12 volts also. Basically you are providing a load with the resistor that will simulate the amount of load that you would have with a regular tungsten light bulb. When two devices are hooked up in "series", the same amount of current flows equally through both devices and dependin on the resistance of each device, it will receive part of the applied voltage and the other device will receive the remainder of the applied voltage. So, as you can see, hooking the resistor in series with the LED will cause the LED to glow dimmer because the resistor is "dropping" some of the applied voltage and leaving the rest for the LED. E = I x R I = E/R R = E/I E= Voltage I= Current in amps (or milliamps in the case of LEDS) R= Resistance Hope this helps clarify a little bit.

Keith wrote: If you hooked it up and it made your LED's dimmer............you hooked it up WRONG! The resistors (one for each side) should be hooked up in parallel with the LED's...........NOT in Series with them. Having said that, I would agree that the flasher unit is the way to go....much less work and some are adjustable for flash rate of speed.

As jcrich stated, the bike has plenty of HP bone stock. Can it be improved.........absolutely! Does it NEED to be improved, not really. Suspension is where you want to spend the money for improved handling. As Rich stated, the suspension on the XX is definitely the weak link. An aftermarket shock will cost you some $$$, depending on which brand, and whether or not it is new or used. Personally, I would opt for an aftermarket rear shock and then do the front forks with Racetec springs and have them re-valved for your weight. I was in a similar situation with my track bike.....a CBR1000RR. They are known for having very poor suspension from the factory. I found a very good condition Ohlins rear shock and put it on, along with having Ohlins internals put in the front forks by CTR suspensions here in Knoxville. Can you say night and day differnece in handling. The bike itself is NOT any faster than the day that I bolted the stuff on, but I'm much faster now with a good suspension setup. That in itself instills a lot of confidence in your riding when you get the suspension dialed in and you know that the bike is going to handle the bumps and uneven pavement that you are going to encounter when riding. For the money, go with suspension components and the bike will be "faster".

That guy needs to stick that wire ampacity chart up his ass.....and quickly....before someone actually follows his suggestions. Phillip....the only true way to know what size wire you are going to need is to figure out how much current that you are going to be using at any given time. ALWAYS....assume the maximum for any item. For example.....electric gloves at full current draw........let's say....2 amps.. Volts times amps = Wattage......so let's just round it off a little and say.... 12VDC times 2 amps = 24 watts. Now you may never turn the gloves up to full or high, but assume the worst cast scenario. Same way with you electric grips, Ipod, whatever. Then total the wattage......let's say......115 watts. Divide the 115 watts by the 12V (more likely 12.5 or 12.6Volts) and you get your current in amps. In my example, using the 12.5 volts........you come up with a current draw of 9.2 amps. The wire size that you could safely use would be anything that can handle 9.2 amps.....but I like to oversize anything like that for a good margin of safety. #12 AWG wire is good for around 20 amps, so that would be plenty....in this example. What I would do in this example is to have a "Main" 20A fuse in the positive side of the circuit and have it feeding a terminal strip......daisy chained to as many terminals as you need. Then the feed coming off of the terminal strip would have an inline fuse of the correct size for whatever that you'r trying to feed with it. Obviously an Ipod doesn't need a 10 amp fuse, but your electric heating stuff might. Give me a holler if you have some questions and I would be glad to explain or show you what I'm talking about. I'll be out of town all day tomorrow (Sunday), but any evening this week would be OK.

If I'm not mistaken, there IS an arrow on it that is suppose to be pointing up. The good news is..........you've tested your BAS and know for a fact that it is working.....in case you have an off.

Just to add to what has already been stated, another cause for freeze up is not enough airflow across the evaporator coil (the one inside the furnace). Checking the filter has already been mentioned, but if you have a unit that has a belt driven blower, the belt could be loose enough that the proper amount of airflow is not being acheived.....and the unit will freeze up also. Sometimes people will also close off vents in rooms that they don't use and this can also cause a problem with airflow across the evaporator unit and cause freeze up at the coil. If you have a direct drive squirrel cage blower instead of the belt drive, check to make sure that the motor is actually turning at the speed that it should, i.e. not binding up at the bearings and causing it to run hotter and slightly slower. Also make sure that the blades on the squirrel cage are not clogged up with a lot of dirt, lint, whatever and impeding the airflow across the evap. coil. It may very well be a loss of refrigerant, but you might as well check the simpler things first and maybe save yourself some money. Hope this helps.

I go through 6 or 7 sets of tires in a year, counting my street bike, my track bike, and Peggy's street/track bike and STG is the lowest price of anywhere that I have found. Excellent customer service and quick shipping too. I give them an A+ and will continue to use them for my tire needs. It doesn't hurt that I've got a NoMar to mount the tires either.

Sorry, I never use the thing.......with one exception. When I'm stopped on a slope and want to take my hand off of the front brake lever while sitting still. Edited to add............I think I might be an official member of the Geritol set

What is this "rear brake" thing that you speak of?????

Philip, If I am understanding what you are saying, you've got a shock that has the little valve on it for adding nitrogen to the oil res. That is something that you don't mess with normally and would only require access to, when the shock is being serviced. As far as mounting the shock, I don't think it would matter ....technically, but I would try to put it on the way that it should be.

BTT again with ANOTHER price DROP........$7500.

It's a deal........as long as I don't have to put "Just for Men" on the grey ones!!!

BTT.........probably going on egay this coming Sunday if no firm offers.

Glad to see you decided to keep the bike Ethan, I know how much you like it! Probably be seein' ya in June!!