xrated

BTT..........anyone?

When I owned the XX, I had a set of Two Bros on the bike and then had a chance to buy a set of MIGs and changed them out. I can honestly say, I've never heard a better sounding XX than with the MIGs. My present street bike is an '07 600RR and I've got an Arata slipon on that bike. I heard a lot of 600RRs with different sounding exhaust and I have to rank the Arata right up there at the top of the list both in quality and sound. My wife's 600RR has an Arata full system on it and it is an awesome sound too.

BTT........Track season starts for me next week.........how about you???

I would say that it varies from state to state, but I don't know for sure. If it had a clear title I would say that it would add another $1500 or so with all of the stuff that's on it. To buy the suspension stuff, brand new, would be approx. $2500 and then there is installation of the front fork stuff.

You wanna put a deposit on it and I can hold it for you for a month or so?

I bought this bike in 2005 with an Illinois “Junk Title”, which means that it cannot be put back into street form. It has been my track bike since the 2006 season. Total track days on the bike are…. 2006….3 2007….2 2008….8 2009….5 2010….It was not ridden, just started occasionally and kept on a battery tender. It has 4xxx miles showing on the odometer and that is a higher than actual number because I changed the sprockets soon after tracking the bike. -1 front and +3 in the rear. There is some repaired damage to the left side of the race plastic after a little off and low-side at Tally in May of 2009. Nothing was bent except for the factory rear sets and I replaced them with a new set of Vortex rear sets and rode the bike again at Road Atlanta in June, Nashville in Aug. and Tally in Sept. Now the goodies that are on the bike…. * Ohlins 20mm Valving and springs in the front forks (set up for 190 lb rider) These forks were refreshed in July 2009 by John at CTR * Ohlins HO347 rear Shock (set up for 190 lb rider) Preload adj., high and low comp. dampening, and rebound * PCIII usb * Jardine RT1 slip on with Alum can * Galfer Stainless lines (Red) front and rear brakes and clutch * Motil RBF600 fluid used in the above * Michelin Power Race Tires……Will come with new rear tire. * Afam front sprocket… -1 * Sidewinder T-Moly rear… +3 * Vortex Rear sets (Black)……new this summer and setup for GP shift * Mirror Block-off plates * Swingarm spools * O.E.S. brand frame sliders * Safety wired at oil filler, oil filter, oil drain, and rear axle bolt * Mobil 1 15W-50 has been used since I bought it I am asking $4000 for the bike the way it sits. I also have a complete set of spare wheels for the bike. Front with a used Power Race…$225 Rear with a used Power Race…………$300 I am in the Knoxville, TN area and would help with pickup, up to 100 miles or so. You can contact me via PM on here or at…865-304-0254….leave a message if no answer.

Honestly, I wouldn't be concerned with it. On a scale of one to ten, as far as concern and adverse affect on the bike, it is................ .0001

Redbird..........I too switched to the Vesrah RJL's this year on the track. I absolutely love them in that environment. On my street bikes, which I do not really ride agressiveley, the stock binders are OK for me.

That is way too much sag on the front forks. Normally, the ideal amount of loaded sag (you on the bike with whatever gear you would normally wear) is roughly 1/3 of the fork travel. If for example you have 4.8 inches of fork travel, that would equate to 122 to 123 millimeters of travel. Divide that number (123) by 3 and you come up with 41mm of loaded sag. My trackbike, which is set up with Ohlins internals in the front and an Ohlins TTX shock in the rear have the following numbers: Front loaded sag: 38mm Rear loaded sag: 25mm. Keep in mind that this is a track bike and normally, most folks like a street bike set up with a little less stiff suspension setup. Your best bet in my opinion would be to change out the springs in the front forks and get some that are suited to you riding style/weight. Change the fork oil while you are in there and if necessary, the fork seals. Hope this helps.

Just curious if you signed up for the XM weather radar option and if you did, how does it work? That would definitely be one feature that I would be interested in if I were to buy the 660 and sell my Zumo 550.

I will add to what has already been said about the sound of these pipes. I have never heard any other pipe sound any better than these do............PLUS.........they are the baddest looking pipes that you can put on an XX if you like the dual exhaust look. If I remember correctly, these were bought new in 2001, so they are not 12 years old.........only 9. Good luck with the sale and whoever gets them..........be prepared for some instant wood every single time you start up the bike!!!

Your engine compartment is.................CUPPED!

You know Barry, I would bet that if we took a poll on the forum here and ask the folks if they agreed with Tox, it would come up at least 5 to 1 in favor of what Tox told you. You are a complete jackoff with absolutely no regard for someone's for sale thread. Tim was/is right.........your momma should have just been giving blow jobs and then spitting........just so there was no chance for reproduction!!

I installed one on my ST1300 over the winter and am using it. Pretty much everything that I've read on the ST forums is.......you have to live with the surge. And, I have to agree, it's one of the best mods that I've ever done to a bike as far as comfort addons.

OK, as long as we are on the trivia stuff, don't forget when they went to the fuel injection in 99, they also put in an extra can of kilo-watts for extra power for the injectors.

Someone tell me that this was a joke.........right??

www.nada.com

I bought this bike in 2005 with an Illinois "Junk Title", which means that is cannot be put back into street form. It has been my track bike since the 2006 season. Total trackdays on the bike are.... 2006....3 2007....2 2008....8 2009....5 It has 4xxx miles showing on the odometer and that is a higher than actual number because I changed the sprockets soon after tracking the bike. -1 front and +3 in the rear. There is some repaired damage to the left side of the race plastic after a little off and low-side at Tally in May of this year. Nothing was bent except for the factory rearsets and I replaced them with a new set of Vortex rearsets and rode the bike again at Road Atlanta in June, Nashville in Aug. and Tally in Sept. Now the goodies that are on the bike.... * Ohlins 20mm Valving and springs in the front forks (set up for 190 lb rider) These forks were refreshed in July 2009 by John at CTR * Ohlins HO347 rear Shock (set up for 190 lb rider) Preload adj., high and low comp. dampening, and rebound * PCIII usb * Jardine RT1 slip on with Alum can * Galfer Stainless lines (Red) front and rear brakes and clutch * Motil RBF600 fluid used in the above * Michelin Power Race Tires......Not a lot left * Afam front sprocket... -1 * Sidewinder T-Moly rear... +3 * Vortex Rearsets (Black)......new this summer and setup for GP shift * Mirror Block-off plates * Swingarm spools * O.E.S. brand frame sliders * Safety wired at oil filler, oil filter, oil drain, and rear axle bolt * Mobil 1 15W-50 has been used since I bought it I am asking $4800 for the bike the way it sits. I also have a complete set of spare wheels for the bike. Front with a used Power Race...$225 Rear with a brand new Power Race............$300 I also have another brand new Power Race....$100 I am in the Knoxville, TN area and would help with pickup, up to 100 miles or so. You can contact me via PM on here or at...865-856-5551....leave a message if no answer.

First of all, let me say that I don't have the tickets in my hand yet, as they don't mail them out till sometime in July. I have PAID FOR and bought the tickets...just haven't received them yet. My wife and I have decided not to go this year and spend the money on more trackdays instead. So, for sale is the following: 2 tickets for the all three days...Aug. 28th, 29th, and Race Day the 30th Located in the S.W. Vista Deck (great view) Section S13 Row B Seats..9 and 10 These seats are all the way at the top of the seating area and give you a great view of the racers coming into T1, through T2, T3, T4, and heading towards T5. Also included with the tickets are a three day auto parking pass for the main gate area. Here is a link to the map of the track. http://indymotorspeedway.com/idx-motogp.html $325 for everything. Vern

The Krypt Keeper wrote: That is exactly what the qualitymachinecompany alignment tool does. It's a very well made, quality tool that should last you the rest of your riding career.........unless you step on it and bend it or something.

I would really be concerned with this guy abilities.......or better said, his lack of abilities, especially with him saying that 6 out of the 8 intake valves needed to be shimmed. This is pretty rare that valves need to be shimmed until you get in the 50K to 60K range, and then most of the time it might be one or two valves.

Here is a link to an alignment tool that I bought a couple of years ago. Probably some of the best money that I've spent on tools for motorcycling. http://qualitymachineco.com/productsales.html Scroll down the page and click on the alignment tool. Very quick, simple, and easy to use!

blackhawkxx wrote: That is your opinion. I run the Pilot Power 2 CTs and my wife runs the plain Pilot Powers on her bike. Street riding is as follows: Front: 31 Rear: 30 Trackdays.........Front 29 - 30 Rear 26 psi These are cold pressures and the tires usually come up 4 to 5 psi during a trackday I have ALWAYS felt that I would rather have a properly inflated tire....i.e. tire will heat up properly and provide the stick/traction that you need, than to be over-inflated and not let the tire warm up properly and risk losing traction in a corner. I guess if all you do on the bike is commute or you never lean the bike over in corners, run the pressure up to 42 psi and have at it. You will certainly get better mileage, longer wear and a tire that won't stick in a corner.

Sounds like a balance issue, since you just developed it after the front tire was replaced. Also, lower your front tire pressure down to about 32 - 33 psi unless you are like 450 lbs or something!!

Go ahead and add them, the flash rate will be the same as you have now. The two ways available to slow them down and restore them to the original flash rate is to: 1. Add a set of resistors in parallel with the LEDs 2. Buy an electronic flasher unit. Some are fixed rate, some are variable rate.......you set the time yourself.