mikefightsfire

http://www.ortho.com/index.cfm/event/WeedFinder.Home

Cut a 4x4 hole through the bottom of the top block. Run 4" pipe off the down spout and burry it in the bed and feed it through the block (set the block on it). Cut the pipe flush with the face of the block and get a 4x4 square drain cover from HD or lowes (the kind that sit on the pipe http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...-640&lpage=none) and glue it on. Or run the pipe under the wall and get a pop-up emiter.http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...422G&lpage=none

From a guy that builds walls for a living that looks great!

Out of all the stuff I have to look up chemical names are not one of them. In a former life I ran haz waste spill clean-ups (we had the EPA region IV contract). You have to know what the names mean or you die. You learn the names quick!

No Actually is it polyhexamethyleneadipamide :wink:

Good job!

Nice. Want a job?

Point taken

Glad it worked out OK. Pics?

Why the hell would you want it that dry? A 4" slump would be a 2 or 3 by the time it got there. I would just get 3000 W/ air and have the truck add water untill it flows ok, If it's too wet it will dry.If it is going to be cold I would have them a calcium so it will set up faster and you can broom it quicker. I would do it in the AM and cover it w/ plastic if it is going to be below 35 overnight.

I don't know. I have never tried one. Those pavers are tough. What brand and do you have them yet?

I put in pavers for a living. Tile saws will not work they lack the power needed to cut pavers. Pavers are made of 9000psi concrete (most driveways are 3000). You need to get a quicky saw with a wet/dry dimond blade so you can cut in place or take them out and cut them. Rent the saw for the month and buy the blade. Blades run about $200. I would also recomend you cut in place. This is better than taking the paves up and cutting them. Just take the snap edge and put it down where you want to cut, take soap stone (in the welding section of HD) and mark the pavers. If it is a straight run snap a chalk line. TAKE YOUR TIME WITH THE CUTS THEY MAKE THE JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know what patern you are doing but make sure you pull string lines every 2'-4' to keep your runs straight. Good luck!!!!

Nik I would patch the crack and seal the floor with Stardek or Encrete. They are made for comercial stamped concrete and will stand up well to your aplication. You should be able to get some one to come in, patch the crack and re-coat it for $3-$4 per SqFt.

Go to your local LESCO or John Deere Landscapes store for the good stuff. Not sure abot your state but you may not be able to buy some products w/o a license. The landscape fabric/matting will not work well as the rock or mulch or whatever else you put on top of it is a good bed for the weeds to grow in. There is a product called Pramitol and when used with fuel oil will steralize the base soil for a peroid of time (this is what most pavers use) but it may not be available in your state. Try roundup-pro mixed with a 1/8 cup amnonia to 3gal (this is a source of nitrogen), mix the roundup first THEN add the amnonia. Lets talk about how weed killers work. Most herbicides work by making the plant out grow the capacity of the root to sustain it. In order for a weed killer to work the plant must be actively growing so if you spray it when it is dormant (real hot or cold) or when it is stunted (too dry or too wet) it will not take up the weed killer and you will not get the results you want. Good luck!

I put in Aquascape ponds. Good stuff! The pond we did to get certified was about 1/4 th size of that on, are you sure the wife isn't doing someone at the office ? I also use alot of Luck Stone stuff. Sometimes together.